Can someone point me in the direction of the post that had some sort of date-code decoding to determine whether or not the DC header was the old or new version (ie: whether it's the crack-prone, or fixed, version) ? I've tried searching to no avail.

I have one on hold until end of day and need to tell the seller how to identify the header version asap!

Thanks!
Eric

 

Version 1:



Version 2:



The connection at the flange is the most obvious difference.

 

Thanks JTso. I don't know if it helps, though, as its a new header in a sealed box, 2000 miles away. I think I found a post where Excelerate mentions that anything with a production date after August 15, 2005, is a new "version 2" header.

 

OK, I have confirmed with him by sending the link to this post, to him, that the header is the old (V1) version.

If my research is correct, I can basically completely "fix" the problem, or prevent it from happening, by having the area just inside the flange that attaches to the cat (downstream of the flex pipe), spot-welded in a few places in the area where the downstream-side of the flex pipe meets the flange. Is this correct, (JTso)?

Thanks!
Eric

 

^^ No necessarily. I did that to mine, and I didn't get any seperation between the flange and flex pipe BUT I ended getting a crack in my flex pipe. Crack Kills I'd recommend just replacing the DC flex pipe if you get a header. That way, you also won't have a hiss sound.

 

That date sounds about right. I forget the exact month, but if you found it in one of Excelerate's posts, it should be reliable.

 

I just read one of your old posts about the crack IN the flex pipe. Would that likely be blamed on the fact you're SC'd and have a lot more torque available on hard launches, causing stresses that a mild-to-moderate driver w/ only a CAI and header (in terms of breathing mods) won't experience or put on their header?

 

Welding the flange to the pipe only addresses the flex pipe separation problem. There is a hidden problem that still can cause the flex pipe to break elsewhere.

The problem is the overall length of the exahaust system which seems to be 1/4 - 1/2" too short. You will notice this when you have to pull the exhaust system toward the header during the installation. This slight length difference is generally not a problem as the rubber hangers have enough flexibility to allow the slight movement. The problem is when you perform hard launches which causes the motor to rock backward due to the soft motor mounts. This engine movement causes the header to pull forward creating stress on the components downstream. This movement still wouldn't be a big problem for the stock header as it's a two piece unit with spring-loaded bolts to allow a slight separation if necessary. However, once you switch to an aftermarket header without the spring-loaded mount, the stress will be on the flex pipe. This problem is not limited on only the DC header.

You have certain options to address this problem.

1. Replace the flex pipe with a better quality unit. Perhaps slightly longer.
2. Add 1/4" length to the cat converter. It's easy with a custom cat with a longer pipe. You can also install a 1/4 flange onto the existing flange of the stock cat.
3. Install some type of ETD to limit the engine movement.
4. A combination of the 3 options.

 

Interesting... do you think an exhaust shop or auto-parts store would have blank ("flat") flanges, so that we could sandwich that in-between the header flange and the catalytic flange? I wonder if extra-long bolts would be needed here. Or, can one re-use the spring-loaded bolts (OEM-style)?

Options, options...

 

Napa has the rear flange but not sure about the available thickness. Nobody has the front flange. You will need to remove the existing bolt from the cat and install longer ones. You can't use the spring-loaded bolts as it's designed to use with OEM style mating connector.

 

It could very well be that I drive my car hard. It's hard to say though. Changing out the flex pipe shouldn't be too expensive though. I wanna say the part cost about $20 and the labor would cost around $20-$30. It would be a lot easier to do it with the header off the car. Just make sure you measure the header so that the length is the same or a little longer after.

 

This is a picture I took last year, around the same time as now.



Have no problem so far, and I drive my car very hard too.

 

Anyone have opinions on the following:

Option 1: Get the DC Sports V1 header (old style) + tack weld. Approx. $375 CAD total.
Option 2: Get the Topspeed header (DC-V2 knockoff in Stainless). Approx. $275 CAD total.

At least with option 1 I'm getting the real thing and not a Chinese knock-off, which has been known to have misaligned runners. I haven't heard anything bad about the V1 DC header aside from the flange separating from the flex pipe but that's taken care of with the spot weld.

Both have potential issues with hissing or flex pipe cracking but I'll take my chances.

 

I'm still using my original version of DC but I welded it completely around from the inside.

 

I'm thinking of pursuing a DC header with extended, replacement flex pipe.

JTso, you think I'd be safe with a 1/2" length extension? I don't want to push it.
My exhaust track also consist of RT cat and stock catback. I will likely make the marks on both pieces for what I want cut out of the dc collector and how much of an extension on both sides of the flex pipe I want added, and just drop the pieces off at a weld shop.

 

If you are thinking of extending the length from the flex pipe side, keep in mind it will move the hanger mount on the flange away from the rubber hanger. Therefore, make sure the hanger mount will still reach the rubber mount. I have always extended the length from the cat. Since you already have a RT cat, you don't have much choice. You might be able to do 1/2" but make sure to check for clearance issue toward the rear. Because the entire exhaust system will lengthen another 1/4" or so after it's heated up.

 

Well, I went ahead and bought the DC V1 header. My wife is picking it up while she's in Calgary over the Easter weekend, so that saved me $25 in shipping.

JTso: Are you using the V1 header with just the full-weld added, or did you personally replace the flex pipe as well?

I'm pumped to install this in a few weeks.

 

It still has the original flex pipe. I did add 1/4" to the custom cat to a total of 18".

 

Cool... sounds like the flex-pipe breaking like TSX536 had is fairly rare, and the tack-welding of the flange-to-flexpipe is the more common problem, which I hope to take care of.