Lightweight Flywheel
Lightweight Flywheel
I gave the service shop the go-ahead to install the Comptech lightweight flywheel
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19840
$330 for the part, $0 for the labor. How could I say no?
I should have my TSX back by the end of the week. Can't wait!
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19840
$330 for the part, $0 for the labor. How could I say no?
I should have my TSX back by the end of the week. Can't wait!
Comptech doesn't have it in stock. It'll take 2 weeks for Acura of Seattle to get it in.
I either take a pass on the part, or pick up my TSX and bring it back again when they get the flywheel.
Bummer!
I either take a pass on the part, or pick up my TSX and bring it back again when they get the flywheel.
Bummer!
Yeah the Comptech Flywheel is a pretty nice piece. I had Acura install it for me when they had to rebuilt my 6MT. The flywheel weighs approx. half the weight of the stock flywheel and man let me tell you does the car ever rap out quick.... Car needs higher rev limter.
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If you have to go back again later, you're going to have to pay for the labor. They're doing it for free because they'll have the case out with the flywheel exposed. if they have to start from scratch again, it usually takes a good 5 hours to swap.
I know this because I used to work for an Acura service department until last year. my faster (or more experienced) techs took about 4 hours to do a TSX tranny (it's more diffictult than, say, a 2002 TL because it has a different cradle that requires different support). The customer pay labor rate was $90/hour, so expect to have to drop a bunch of cash to get this installed if you have to take it back in.
I know this because I used to work for an Acura service department until last year. my faster (or more experienced) techs took about 4 hours to do a TSX tranny (it's more diffictult than, say, a 2002 TL because it has a different cradle that requires different support). The customer pay labor rate was $90/hour, so expect to have to drop a bunch of cash to get this installed if you have to take it back in.
The lighter the flywheel, the faster the revs. This is good to a certain extent. The lighter your rotating mass, the lower the restriction on the engine, and the more free-flowing ponies. If only we could re-map our ECUs to better accomodate faster revs with a higher redline and smoother fuel mapping.
Originally Posted by madmanmax3000
so does this mean that the flywheel would show noticeable HP difference, roughly how much?
wow, you guys need to explain this ALOT better.
liek asnwering my question, is the speed of your car at 7000rpms the same as changing to a light weight flywheel? a ratio of speed: rev equally throughout the band, cuz if thats the case... if it took 6 seoncds to rev up to redline before, and it now takes 4 seconds, but the speed is speed to rev ratio remains equal.... than your car goes significantly faster?
i just dont get how it works. you rev faster, thats all. and jeff's odd comment.
liek asnwering my question, is the speed of your car at 7000rpms the same as changing to a light weight flywheel? a ratio of speed: rev equally throughout the band, cuz if thats the case... if it took 6 seoncds to rev up to redline before, and it now takes 4 seconds, but the speed is speed to rev ratio remains equal.... than your car goes significantly faster?
i just dont get how it works. you rev faster, thats all. and jeff's odd comment.
[QUOTE=kurt_bradley]If you have to go back again later, you're going to have to pay for the labor.QUOTE]
My service advisor told me that they didn't open up the transmission to diagnose the problem. I can pick up the car, drive it for a couple of weeks, and then bring it back to do the warranty work AND install the flywheel at the same time.
My service advisor told me that they didn't open up the transmission to diagnose the problem. I can pick up the car, drive it for a couple of weeks, and then bring it back to do the warranty work AND install the flywheel at the same time.
Originally Posted by TSX Cman
wow, you guys need to explain this ALOT better.
liek asnwering my question, is the speed of your car at 7000rpms the same as changing to a light weight flywheel? a ratio of speed: rev equally throughout the band, cuz if thats the case... if it took 6 seoncds to rev up to redline before, and it now takes 4 seconds, but the speed is speed to rev ratio remains equal.... than your car goes significantly faster?
i just dont get how it works. you rev faster, thats all. and jeff's odd comment.
liek asnwering my question, is the speed of your car at 7000rpms the same as changing to a light weight flywheel? a ratio of speed: rev equally throughout the band, cuz if thats the case... if it took 6 seoncds to rev up to redline before, and it now takes 4 seconds, but the speed is speed to rev ratio remains equal.... than your car goes significantly faster?
i just dont get how it works. you rev faster, thats all. and jeff's odd comment.
Here is an excellent explanation that JTso provided me.
http://www.pumaracing.co.uk/flywheel.htm
Basically, it says that in 1st gear, removing 10 lbs. from the flywheel will be the equivalent of removing approximately 400 lbs. of weight from the car. In 2nd gear, it would be equal to about 120 lbs. of curb weight. 3rd gear is like 60 lbs., etc.
Here is an old link that illustrates the effect of reducing the weight of a car.
http://sportcompactcarweb.com/features/0208_scared/
In this article, a Nissan Sentra shaved 1/2 second of it's 0-60 MPH time simply by shaving 13 lbs. off of each wheel.
Combine a lightweight flywheel with lightweight wheels/tires and you could easily knock 1 second off the TSX's 0-60 MPH times...and that's without touching the engine!
[QUOTE=fedlawman]
So they haven't done your tranny yet? Odd that they didn't want to get that job booked as quickly as possible.
Originally Posted by kurt_bradley
If you have to go back again later, you're going to have to pay for the labor.QUOTE]
My service advisor told me that they didn't open up the transmission to diagnose the problem. I can pick up the car, drive it for a couple of weeks, and then bring it back to do the warranty work AND install the flywheel at the same time.
My service advisor told me that they didn't open up the transmission to diagnose the problem. I can pick up the car, drive it for a couple of weeks, and then bring it back to do the warranty work AND install the flywheel at the same time.
Originally Posted by kurt_bradley
So they haven't done your tranny yet? Odd that they didn't want to get that job booked as quickly as possible.
Originally Posted by JeffTSX
There is no HP difference. Hmm..okay, Just imagaine this. It's kinda like how your car would feel if it lost some weigh. 
whoaaa, wait..........reciprocating mass is different than static mass. There will be slight differences for sure. If you were to add heavier rotors or heavier rims, you will dyno less power for sure....the opposite is true. It's not a power adder per say just reduces parasitic loss.
Originally Posted by TSXDude
Will it affect driveability when you install a lightened flywheel? I would think that the drop in rpm would be much quicker when you have a lighter flywheel.
yes, RPMs do drop quicker. Starting from a roll is also a bit more difficult because of how easily the engine will spool. Just a matter of adjusting. Everybody i know, no matter on what car(aside from FI) said it's the best upgrade they could've done. Lightened rotors and rims are the next thing because of the peformance gains in acceleratoin and deceleration.
Originally Posted by Zapata
yes, RPMs do drop quicker. Starting from a roll is also a bit more difficult because of how easily the engine will spool. Just a matter of adjusting. Everybody i know, no matter on what car(aside from FI) said it's the best upgrade they could've done. Lightened rotors and rims are the next thing because of the peformance gains in acceleratoin and deceleration.
So what are the cons of this modification? I see plenty of positive things.
Additionally, does anyone know of any other companies selling lighter flywheels. Aside from maybe a supercharger, I am not really looking to drop Comptech parts in my car, regardless of warranty situations provided by a dealer.
Additionally, does anyone know of any other companies selling lighter flywheels. Aside from maybe a supercharger, I am not really looking to drop Comptech parts in my car, regardless of warranty situations provided by a dealer.
I'm not entirely sure, but I wonder if the Exedy clutch/fly combos for the K20 will work with the K24. The structural differences in the engine for displacement are in the bore x stroke.
Exedy homepage
The HF02 flywheel mates to all 3 transmissions for the other K20s (Si, RSX, and Type-S)
Exedy homepage
The HF02 flywheel mates to all 3 transmissions for the other K20s (Si, RSX, and Type-S)
Originally Posted by kurt_bradley
I wonder if the Exedy clutch/fly combos for the K20 will work with the K24. The structural differences in the engine for displacement are in the bore x stroke.
Comptech RSX lightweight flywheel

Comptech TSX lightweight flywheel

Notice that there are 3 more mounting holes (for the clutch housing) on the RSX flywheel. Also, the center bore appears to be a little bigger on the TSX flywheel (the stock crankshaft maybe bigger?).
Since Comptech makes the flywheels for both cars, maybe someone can call them and find out.
Originally Posted by cmf
So what are the cons of this modification? I see plenty of positive things.
Additionally, does anyone know of any other companies selling lighter flywheels. Aside from maybe a supercharger, I am not really looking to drop Comptech parts in my car, regardless of warranty situations provided by a dealer.
I think at this point of time, only Comptech makes a lightweight flywheel for the K24 motor (TSX). I hope to see other companies to come up with one also. Companies like Exedy, Toda, Spoon, or JUN. Just some things for those who are interested in getting a lightweight flywheel, IMO I would only go with a flywheel that is made out of chromoly steel (basically all the companies I listed above, including the Comptech one). I would avoid one that is made out of aluminum alloy (like the Fidanza one). The reason is that (based on my limited knowledge on metals) aluminum is usually softer and cannot withstand high heat, therefore a flywheel in this material tends to warp easier as compared to the chromoly steel. Now, I've heard people with Fidanza flywheels and they're happy with them. It's just my preference that I would avoid aluminum flywheels.
Car mechanical wise im kind of a n00b, so im wondering....is this something that could be done to an auto, or is this a manual only type mod? If so, would it serve any benefit to an auto?
Originally Posted by BlackTSX
Car mechanical wise im kind of a n00b, so im wondering....is this something that could be done to an auto, or is this a manual only type mod? If so, would it serve any benefit to an auto?
the only thing thats disappointing me is that this is a gain for 1st gear mainly. i already needlessly burn more gas than needed. i am trying to cut down the 1st gear accel and put a little more into 2, 3.
Originally Posted by vwong
May I ask why you don't want Comptech? Just curious!!!
Just not a big fan of Comptech is all. I'm not saying it's a bad product, but just don't like their stuff.
I'd rather go with one of the Japanese companies, gotta keep it JDM yo!
In past experiences with lightweight flywheels on my other Hondas I have never noticed engine being rougher just acceleration increase and faster reving. And I'm with CMF I just don't like comptech. I think they are over priced and don't perform as well as other brands that are in the same price range or even better priced. BUT that is MY opinion I'm not preaching or tryin to talk crap I just don't like thier products too much. For example..the I/H/E combo costs how much???? My custom set up was only $600. With just I/E and I make more power than the I/H/E combo from comptech. Thats sad IMHO.
Originally Posted by xizor
a con could be the fact you'll engine break less... if someone could consider that a bad thing. and as jtso alluded, does it make the idle somewhat rougher?
Curious to know why you'd engine brake less. I do that a lot, so increase my knowledge please.





