Some quick updates on the ETD setup. The K24 torque monster did it again. This time is the poly bushing inside the ETD unit. The actual problem is the washers being too small, allowing them to punch through the bushing under high torque. I was wondering why the setup starting to make rattling noises especially with the AC on.

I replaced the washers with larger ones (1.00" dia) to provide better bushing support. I also swapped out the poly bushings and put in the rubber ones. The rubber bushings actually work well and less vibrations even with AC on. The NRG unit comes with an extra set of bushings.



I have to enlarge the center on the larger washers to fit the mounting rod




After a short period of testing and evaluation, I have decided to keep only one ETD bracket design in favor of strength and ease of implementation. The original bracket might still work but I notice a slight lift on the bottom of the bracket, which means it's not strong enough. Therefore, the original tower bracket design is out, along with the long ETD unit. This allows me to focus on the Cusco compatible bracket and get the brackets out quicker.

This is another reason why things must go slowly. I do the testing and absorb the cost associate with problems so you don't have to.

A few things to keep in mind...

1. The Cusco compartible bracket will only work if you are willing to remove the stock strut bar or grind down the lip on the edge.

2. If you have stock front shocks, the mounting studs might be too short for the bracket. The studs on my Flex are longer than stock. Someone please post pic of stock setup (shock tower) and measure the exposed length of the stud.

3. The NRG ETD is a great unit but the internal washers must be replaced prior to use. Also consider using the rubber bushings for less vibrations.

The original bracket on the left is out. The Cusco compatible bracket will be the only one I'm working on.

 

thanks for the update! the new larger washer looks as though it'll eliminate the problem that the smaller washers were causing.

doing a great job jtso!

 

The stock shock studs protrude about 13-14mm total, most of which is taken up by the stock nuts. Here are a couple photos:

Top view


Side view


How thick is your bracket -- 1/2" (13mm)?

 

Thanks for the update JTso. Anyone know if it is possible to just pull the bolt off the strut and replace it with a longer one of higher tensile strength?

 

hmm good question... i got my stock shocks down in the garage, i could go have a look? But for some reason i don't think they are designed to be removed or replaced so it might be hard

 

Thanks for the pics. The bracket is about 6.25mm or 1/4" thick. The stock strut bar mounting nut is about 8.5mm tall.

 

The strut bar studs look a little shorter than the three shock studs (which are what I measured). Either way, there doesn't appear to be enough there to handle the strut bar, bracket and nuts. With the stock bar removed, there's probably enough thread there to handle the bracket and nuts just barely. Any way to recess the area on the bracket around the two mounting holes?

 

I don't have anything that can do that. That might weaken the bracket though.

 

Not that you would, but a larger drill bit will do a beatiful recess.

 

I think it needs to be done on a mill with a flat bit instead of the normal angle drill bit.

It look like the one on the left. http://www.cs.cmu.edu/~rapidproto/st...oject2/tip.gif

 

I'd rather remove the mini-brace and find a way to mount the cables and stuff elsewhere rather than weaken the bracket.

 

Or a drill press and a flat bit. It would obviously be thinner at the bolt holes, but it seems that that bracket doesn't experience much up-and-down force, more front-to-back force (you can tell I'm no engineer). So 2mm recesses to give the nuts more purchase on the stud might not have a real effect on the bracket's durability, but it still comes down to whether you can get a nice straight recess without a drill press.

Just my totally unscientific thoughts!

 

maybe those with stock suspension could just use a thinner bolt to tighten it on... looks like clearance is only a couple mm off

 

The point at which the damper is bolted onto the bracket is a few cm above the bolts which hold the bracket to the chassis. Therefore there is a moment of rotation which will translate to a lifting force on the bolt that is closer to the front. So there will be an effect when bracket is thinned out.

 

You're right, I forgot the mounting point is 6mm or so higher. I wonder, though, if that would generate enough force to do dmg. Only one way to find out -- send me a bracket set and I'll drill them and report my findings. JTso?

 

Haha, JTso's already had that happen with his Comptech version of the bracket. If it bends the full thickness bracket, imagine the damage on the thinner metal. Might even shear the bracket off the bolts.
Pic from the 1st page:

 

i just found a picture of the SPOON etd designed for the CL7, to me it looks to be an almost identical design to the Cusco compatible one JTso has developed.

Maybe someone can comment... but this looks like it may fit?



edit: just realised this was bought up earlier in the thread

it looks like it may fit though?

 

the j's racing one in the engine bay





it looks like it might not fit because the hose is in the way for the CL9... but maybe it could be modified slightly to fit? I'm not sure

 

If J's would reverse their engine mounted bracket, it would fit. JTso's is exactly that concept.

 

what is that hose for cause I have always wanted to find a place to reroute it too.

 

Yup, the design is almost the same minus the high JDM price tag.

 

Do you think you could replicate the bracket design that J's racing used? It looks like their strut tower bracket has a bend that allows it to clear the stock strut bar.

BTW JDM = JTso domestic market.

 

And that's why we like your stuff so much.

 

anyone

 

Yea, that's what i was thinking aswell. Wouldn't it be possible to just flip the J's racing engine bracket around it mount it the way Jtso's is? I have a feeling there may be a way to use these CL7 etd's.

I want to know the same... i don't like how it comes over the valve cover like that. Would make the bay look a bit neater if it was directed somewhere else.


JTso, can you confirm that the hose is the only thing preventing the CL7 etd's from fitting? You know a lot more about etd designs than anyone. thanks.

the hardlines to the left of the ETD look slightly different from Cl7 to CL9 and might pose some clearance isues.

 

That's the power steering hose. It's possible to relocate it by replacing it with a custom stainless braided hose and AN fittings. However, it will be a tight fit between the valve cover and shock tower (not over the valve cover).

It's hard to tell from the pic what the bend is for. It could be for clearing the AC lines which are different than the USDM. I don't have anything to bend metal plate like the CL7 bracket.

Thanks for the support!

Flipping the engine bracket wouldn't work. Because the direction of the mounting hole would be facing the wrong way.

I don't have the CL7 ETD to verify so I can't say for sure. However, if all the ABS motor, brake lines, and motor mount are the same, then the PS hose is probably the only thing that keeps you from using the CL7 ETD setup.

 

is there any reason that the hose can not be extended. will the power steering not work right.

 

It can be extended. What do you have in mind?

 

hmm it might be time to look into a custom braided line to replace that hose... alternatively could we just get a longer hose and bend it in a different way?

I'd still prefer a J(Tso)DM version, because I actually think the design is much better than the Spoon and J's racing version. The extra bracing that you (JTso) use and the thick steel gives me more confidence that itll last for a long time.

 

I did a mock-up of the shock tower bracket with the stock strut bar. As you can see in the pics below, there is very little support if keeping the stock strut bar untouched. I need at least 27mm from the edge of the bottom piece to the edge of the top piece for welding. Additionally, the mounting studs must be long enough. If you want to keep the stock strut bar, it might be better to try the CL7 ETD setup and customize a new power steering hose. I think Spoon's or J's have a thinner bracket with a bend to clear the strut bar.





This is a redesigned bracket that provides more support for the upper bracket.

 

I have nothing in mind right now but I am going to try to come up with something cause it makes the engine bay ugly. i just know thta if you extend the lines going from the brake cylinder you can cause uneven braking and I didnt want to extend the cable if it would cause problems.

I figure if possibly put two right angle pieces where it comes out of the pump and take it down first instead of up.

 

another thing we need a better picture of the cl7 engine bay so we can figure out where the power steering is run on it.

 

If that's what you are going to do, consider making a custom billet aluminum adapter block on the PS pump. Drill and tap the adapter block for an AN fitting. Connect an angle swivel AN fitting to the block. Connect the other end of the stainless braided hose to a T-fitting (go between the shock tower and engine) and connect the PS pressure sensor (behind the engine). Connect another length of braided hose with AN fitting to the T-fitting. Then finally connect the other end of the hose to the steering rack. The most difficult part is making the adapter block. The rest is just connecting hoses and fittings.

 

I'll send what you just wrote to a friend that knows all about An fittings etc. it all sounds a bit alien to me, I don't think it's something I could do myself.

I couldn't find the power steering hose in this picture of the CL7 engine bay



maybe found out where it goes in the DC5r since they are both k20's

 

Check the pics and video of Engine Torque Damper on Acura CL, it is very interesting.

https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...9&page=3&pp=25

 

I have been research for Engine Torque Damper for TSX but it is hard to find one for TSX. I wonder if Ingalls Engine Torque Damper for RSX is same design of TSX because of same engine but different design of RSX and TSX. I really want buy one but need to get a few parts to support the Engine Torque Damper. JTso, if you plan to build a bracket then let us know, Thanks.

 

The CL7 uses a similar EPS system to the EP3. Power steering is electrical.

 

Now that would explain why i couldn't find it... I guess the only solution is to redirect the power steering hose. Another problem might be the hardlines to the left of the strut tower.. they seem different on the CL7

 

is using the CL7R intake manifold will give any noticeable power gains?