J's Racing CL7 Header
#1
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From: Mooresville, NC
J's Racing CL7 Header
Originally Posted by AJR-COW
Most of you guys may know J's has come out with a header, Here are some pics of the header,
Super lightweight and strong construction. 45mm primaries with conjunction of 50mm secondaries and 65mm collector. Dyno proven +12hp gain with EuroR K20A engine.
Can be adapt to TSX CL7 K24A2 engine with the use of J's Racing racing converter pipe.
Price: CAD $895.00 (USD $868.96)
As for the J's Racing Circuit converter
Super lightweight and strong construction. 45mm primaries with conjunction of 50mm secondaries and 65mm collector. Dyno proven +12hp gain with EuroR K20A engine.
Can be adapt to TSX CL7 K24A2 engine with the use of J's Racing racing converter pipe.
Price: CAD $895.00 (USD $868.96)
As for the J's Racing Circuit converter
My question is what do people thing about the fact there is zero flexpipes in this design. to me that means this exhaust would rattle like a bitch.
#2
Yeah, I think zero flex pipes is an issue. Our car seems to like to shake, especially with the AC on. Last pic seems to have spring loaded bolts between the header and cat though, so maybe that would help with the vibration
Also, looks like a 4-1 header. I'm not sure how good that is for N/A. Doesn't that mean less low end power, but more power up top? I could be wrong, but that's my understanding of the different header configurations. The other headers I've seen for the TSX are a 4-2-1.
The header looks pretty though
Also, looks like a 4-1 header. I'm not sure how good that is for N/A. Doesn't that mean less low end power, but more power up top? I could be wrong, but that's my understanding of the different header configurations. The other headers I've seen for the TSX are a 4-2-1.
The header looks pretty though
#3
Dude, with just the little bit of vibration that i have in my CT header i would imagine that this thing would rattle like CRAZY!!! However, if its the EXACT same length and not slightly shorter than the OEM, like comptech, AND its paired with the right CAT and exhaust like the Hytech system or the T1R system, it may not be a problem. But if you bolt this to your OEM CAT or RT CAT with any other exhaust, my assumption would be that its going to really rattle like whoa........
EDIT: I did just notice that they have spring bolts connected to the test pipe.....that could help but i would still tend to think it would rattle although, with it being a 4-1 design instead of a 4-2-1 like Kenny mentioned, it might change the air flow dynamic enough to change the resonancy......lots of if with this setup.
EDITx2: Kenny, i didn't even read your response and just noticed that my obervations and thoughts were about the exact same, great minds think alike
EDIT: I did just notice that they have spring bolts connected to the test pipe.....that could help but i would still tend to think it would rattle although, with it being a 4-1 design instead of a 4-2-1 like Kenny mentioned, it might change the air flow dynamic enough to change the resonancy......lots of if with this setup.
EDITx2: Kenny, i didn't even read your response and just noticed that my obervations and thoughts were about the exact same, great minds think alike
#5
To clarify:
1. J's Racing Header is a CL7 header 4-2-1
2. Spring bolts you see in Picture #4 connected to the test pipe is assumably from a CL7 OEM header.
Therefore, either J's Racing header or test pipe show to have spring bolts support. Unless the J's Racing recommend re-use of OEM spring bolts during header installation
can continues
1. J's Racing Header is a CL7 header 4-2-1
2. Spring bolts you see in Picture #4 connected to the test pipe is assumably from a CL7 OEM header.
Therefore, either J's Racing header or test pipe show to have spring bolts support. Unless the J's Racing recommend re-use of OEM spring bolts during header installation
can continues
#7
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Originally Posted by BU
To clarify:
1. J's Racing Header is a CL7 header 4-2-1
2. Spring bolts you see in Picture #4 connected to the test pipe is assumably from a CL7 OEM header.
Therefore, either J's Racing header or test pipe show to have spring bolts support. Unless the J's Racing recommend re-use of OEM spring bolts during header installation
can continues
1. J's Racing Header is a CL7 header 4-2-1
2. Spring bolts you see in Picture #4 connected to the test pipe is assumably from a CL7 OEM header.
Therefore, either J's Racing header or test pipe show to have spring bolts support. Unless the J's Racing recommend re-use of OEM spring bolts during header installation
can continues
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#9
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From: Mooresville, NC
Originally Posted by clee109
correct me if I'm wrong but the J's header shown doesn't have the right flange for our set up. looks like an oval style flange with 2 screws whereas; ours is triangular with 3 screws.
#10
So with the j's header/testipe the 70RR exhaust would work no JDM header needed this is definitely my ideal setup and alot cheaper than other setup, the only thing is you would not pass inspection unless you swap the stock setup back just wondering if J's would release a neader specifically for the CL9 now that would be nice.
#11
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From: Mooresville, NC
Originally Posted by CGPTSX06
So with the j's header/testipe the 70RR exhaust would work no JDM header needed this is definitely my ideal setup and alot cheaper than other setup, the only thing is you would not pass inspection unless you swap the stock setup back just wondering if J's would release a neader specifically for the CL9 now that would be nice.
#12
That looks absolutely gorgeous, but I wouldn't want to mess around with swapping parts for inspection. That said, the gains when combined with their test pipe and single-exit exhaust are probably wicked sweet, maybe a bargain version of a Hytech setup, when combined with Hondata...
#14
I don't see why not, if you could either find the parts online and take them to a shop, or find a shop that would custom something up for you. The question is how much would it cost and how hard would it be to find someone to do that kind of work. Let us know how it goes!
And while we're on the topic, can anyone tell me if the RT Cat has those tabs to put the OEM heatshield on? I'm thinking of picking the cat up soon and want to know. Thanks.
And while we're on the topic, can anyone tell me if the RT Cat has those tabs to put the OEM heatshield on? I'm thinking of picking the cat up soon and want to know. Thanks.
#17
Originally Posted by Tsx536
Yeah, I think zero flex pipes is an issue. Our car seems to like to shake, especially with the AC on. Last pic seems to have spring loaded bolts between the header and cat though, so maybe that would help with the vibration
Also, looks like a 4-1 header. I'm not sure how good that is for N/A. Doesn't that mean less low end power, but more power up top? I could be wrong, but that's my understanding of the different header configurations. The other headers I've seen for the TSX are a 4-2-1.
The header looks pretty though
Also, looks like a 4-1 header. I'm not sure how good that is for N/A. Doesn't that mean less low end power, but more power up top? I could be wrong, but that's my understanding of the different header configurations. The other headers I've seen for the TSX are a 4-2-1.
The header looks pretty though
It's a 4-2-1. Very long primaries, so it should make good power.
#23
I'm so envy of those K20A EuroR guys but our K24A2 has lots of potential we all know that but the DBW kills it all and we have to stick with the bolt on stuff couldn't do cams and anything except for the hytech route which is very $$$. Now only if there are aftermarket standalone ECU we can mix and match parts escpecially cams and stuff and maximise those gains accordingly. I remember I read an article in a magazine an ECU name by HYDRA EMS complete standalone ECU which has the capability to run the DBW cars and they do have an option of like a LCD dash display just wondering if that would work on our car and maybe a cheaper alternative to the Motec ECU which is the only ECU we know off that can be use on our car but again very $$$$.
#24
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From: Mooresville, NC
Originally Posted by CGPTSX06
I'm so envy of those K20A EuroR guys but our K24A2 has lots of potential we all know that but the DBW kills it all and we have to stick with the bolt on stuff couldn't do cams and anything except for the hytech route which is very $$$. Now only if there are aftermarket standalone ECU we can mix and match parts escpecially cams and stuff and maximise those gains accordingly. I remember I read an article in a magazine an ECU name by HYDRA EMS complete standalone ECU which has the capability to run the DBW cars and they do have an option of like a LCD dash display just wondering if that would work on our car and maybe a cheaper alternative to the Motec ECU which is the only ECU we know off that can be use on our car but again very $$$$.
#25
I guess we are doom. Just wondering when Acura engineered our car I think they meant to incorporate the DBW technology to make it sophisticated and all so that the aftermarket people have a tougher time to decode the ECU so it limit potential owners to modify their car and for warranty sake especially doing anything to the engine internal and when people found out that they will loose their AC,guage cluster and such like functions the car and who the hell want to loose such functions just my thought. I guess only Acura would know.
#26
I bet the DBW thing has to do with older cars and problems with throttle cables and all that bologna.. I dont think they made it to make it harder for us to mod the car.. i just think since they did it its not as easy anymore since the dbw runs through everything.
#27
Originally Posted by CGPTSX06
I guess we are doom. Just wondering when Acura engineered our car I think they meant to incorporate the DBW technology to make it sophisticated and all so that the aftermarket people have a tougher time to decode the ECU so it limit potential owners to modify their car and for warranty sake especially doing anything to the engine internal and when people found out that they will loose their AC,guage cluster and such like functions the car and who the hell want to loose such functions just my thought. I guess only Acura would know.
#28
Originally Posted by TSX2345
The HyTech has not flex pipe. No rattles! It has flex donut gasket where the cat meets the collector.
It looks like thats what this header utilizes as well.
It looks like thats what this header utilizes as well.
The donut eliminates the need for a flex pipe. This connection is highly preferred over the use of a flex pipe in most cases.
#29
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Originally Posted by MrHeeltoe
The donut eliminates the need for a flex pipe. This connection is highly preferred over the use of a flex pipe in most cases.
#31
Originally Posted by CCColtsicehockey
can i install a donut on the connection from my cat to my exhaust on from my comptech header to my cat to try to get rid of some of the rattle.
Yes you can, but you need special flanges to do it. One side has a lip for the donut to sit on, and the other side has a cup that the donut rotates in. Special spring-loaded hardware attaches it all together.
See an example on the stock manifold-to-flex-pipe connection. I am not sure why there is a flex AND a donut on the stock setup...it confuses me a little. Then again, Honda must have had a reason to do it.
That does not mean that you'd need both a donut and a flex in all cases though. It is possible that the design layout of the stock exhaust requires it while the aftermarket parts could reduce or eliminate the need.
Marcus
#34
Originally Posted by aaronng
It's a 4-2-1. Very long primaries, so it should make good power.
Originally Posted by chuson
I wonder if the J's Racing Race Header will bolt up to the Greddy SP2?
#36
Originally Posted by Tsx536
Yeah, you are right. I'm not sure what I was thinking when I said 4-1 before
The header bolts up to the Cat first. The flange on the end of the header wouldn't fit an OEM Cat though. You would have to get the J's Racing Test Pipe or change the flange on your current CAT. It looks like if you bought the J's Racing Test pipe that it has a standard flange on the other end that should bolt up to any TSX exhaust. The Greddy SP should be fine.
The header bolts up to the Cat first. The flange on the end of the header wouldn't fit an OEM Cat though. You would have to get the J's Racing Test Pipe or change the flange on your current CAT. It looks like if you bought the J's Racing Test pipe that it has a standard flange on the other end that should bolt up to any TSX exhaust. The Greddy SP should be fine.
I wonder what's the estimate gain IF I swap my DC for J's Racing?
#38
Originally Posted by chuson
Thanks. I have a high-flow cat, so should be fine I guess?
I wonder what's the estimate gain IF I swap my DC for J's Racing?
I wonder what's the estimate gain IF I swap my DC for J's Racing?
That's a CL7 header
Originally Posted by tsxdriver
i wonder if it'll bolt up to my mugen cat?
but $1000 for possible 0-3 HP gains replacing Mugen Header I don't know about that.
#39
That looks pretty good. Design and Craftmanship wise it doesn't look as impressive as the Maxim works or Toda headers. The primaries don't really look any longer than the other JDM headers out there. It should have no problems outperforming the DC Sports and Comptech header though.
#40
Originally Posted by BU
man. You need a CL7 CAT. or CL7 version testpipe.
That's a CL7 header
yeah, it should bolt right up onto Mugen Cat..
but $1000 for possible 0-3 HP gains replacing Mugen Header I don't know about that.
That's a CL7 header
yeah, it should bolt right up onto Mugen Cat..
but $1000 for possible 0-3 HP gains replacing Mugen Header I don't know about that.
You can always buy a highflow cat (or use your existing one) and get the exhaust shop to weld the compatible flanges (and piping if required) to match the length and angle of the J's racing test pipe.