Help with brakes

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Old Jun 9, 2007 | 05:13 PM
  #1  
Omboy's Avatar
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Help with brakes

Hey guys I am new to the fourm. I have a 06 TSX.
22k on it and the brakes are gone I get this noisy sound out of the car even when i am not braking. I need to replace the rotors and brake pads but need suggestions. I have a habit of braking hard so its no surpirse to me that at 22k the pads are gone. I would like perforamnce rotors and pads...
Any suggestions are welcome.

And is there anywhere in the GTA where i can get these performance parts from.


Thanks
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Old Jun 10, 2007 | 12:03 AM
  #2  
suleman's Avatar
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if you only drive on city streets and highways you probably won't need performance parts.


just get brembo blanks and hawp hps pads. youre done

also; you probably don't even need new rotors. there's a thing called cutting/resurfacing rotors lol. well go down to a autozone and ask them to let you use their micro-meter and measure how thick the rotor is. the minimum thickness is posted onto the rotor towards the hub or the back of the rotor(can't remember; haven't had to replace acura/honda rotors ina while now)


if you have any questions feel free to pm me.
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Old Jun 11, 2007 | 10:06 AM
  #3  
Omboy's Avatar
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hey thx...
wht abt a stainless steel braided brake line?
would it help
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Old Jun 11, 2007 | 10:22 AM
  #4  
Reach's Avatar
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From: ffx.va.us
Many people have found that replacing the pads alone with aftermarket performance pads is all you need to do. The OEM pads leave deposits on the rotor which lead to noise and steering shudder feel, especially while breaking. Doing a proper bed-in procedure with new pads can remove the deposits and get your brakes working well again, without changing the rotors. The OEM rotors are actually fairly decent.
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Old Jun 20, 2007 | 04:51 PM
  #5  
andeh's Avatar
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Please bare with me, but...what exactly is a proper bed-in?
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Old Jun 20, 2007 | 05:18 PM
  #6  
aaronng's Avatar
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From: Sydney
I have the Hawk Ceramics and I noticed something. Follow Hawk's hard braking bed in process. I did the conventional gentle driving for the first 700 miles and when it came to needing to have that braking power, I had to stomp VERY hard on the pedal and ABS did not engage. However, I repeated this a few times and after each time, the braking force improved. Now I can get ABS to engage without needing to stomp on the brake pedal with full strength, which means my pads have bedded in properly.
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Old Jun 21, 2007 | 09:13 AM
  #7  
jlukja's Avatar
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From: Long Beach, CA
Originally Posted by andeh
Please bare with me, but...what exactly is a proper bed-in?
Give this a read: http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...formance.shtml

Originally Posted by Bedding-in Street-Performance Pads

For a typical performance brake system using street-performance pads, a series of ten partial braking events, from 60mph down to 10mph, will typically raise the temperature of the brake components sufficiently to be considered one bed-in set. Each of the ten partial braking events should achieve moderate-to-high deceleration (about 80 to 90% of the deceleration required to lock up the brakes and/or to engage the ABS), and they should be made one after the other, without allowing the brakes to cool in between.

Depending on the make-up of the pad material, the brake friction will seem to gain slightly in performance, and will then lose or fade somewhat by around the fifth stop (also about the time that a friction smell will be detectable in the passenger compartment). This does not indicate that the brakes are bedded-in. This phenomenon is known as a green fade, as it is characteristic of immature or ‘green' pads, in which the resins still need to be driven out of the pad material, at the point where the pads meet the rotors. In this circumstance, the upper temperature limit of the friction material will not yet have been reached.

As when bedding-in any set of brakes, care should be taken regarding the longer stopping distance necessary with incompletely bedded pads. This first set of stops in the bed-in process is only complete when all ten stops have been performed - not before. The system should then be allowed to cool, by driving the vehicle at the highest safe speed for the circumstances, without bringing it to a complete stop with the brakes still applied. After cooling the vehicle, a second set of ten partial braking events should be performed, followed by another cooling exercise. In some situations, a third set is beneficial, but two are normally sufficient.
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Old Jun 21, 2007 | 12:23 PM
  #8  
andeh's Avatar
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Great, informative link. Thanks.
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