Here's a review of the DC Header by Jeff from Temple of Vtec!
Full installation instructions with pics.

http://vtec.net/articles/view-article?article_id=348704

 

JTSo, from the pics is this the updated design?

 

pretty good article, very glad to see an independent review and dyno of the header.

I'm also not surprsied to see TOV's TSX now dynoing at a normal rate. Their review of the AEM SRI had w/ a max hp of 184, now w/ the SRI and hondata intake manifold gasket they were down to 180, exactly what I dyno'd at w/ a CAI and gasket. I concluded that their dyno was miscalibrated during the SRI review and still think that's were the missing HP went.

the 8hp at the wheels is pretty decent, and combined w/ Hondata could definately give a good bang for the buck. i might consider DC sports now if they've fixed the weld problem.

 

The design is the same but they fixed the problem by welding the flex pipe to the flange. The exact fix that I did to my header.

 

The TOV dyno output is different than mine, but the hp/tq curves and the amount of gain are very similar to my DC dyno result.

 

Well if they fixed thier quality issues, like has been stated, then this seems like a pretty good addition. Approx $300 for about 8whp. Not to bad.

 

It's interesting because Temple of Vtec recommends trying to preassemble the 2 piece header before trying to install it, while the DC instructions say to install in 2 pieces.

For those who have already installed the DC header, what would you guys recommend?

 

TOV didn't install the DC header as one piece, but it might be possible. I installed the two pieces separately per the instructions.

 

Yeah they did the same method as you did, but they mention a couple of times that it might be easier to mount as 1 piece. I guess this came about after they took out the DC header and put the Comptech 1 piece header in.
What is your opinion on this JTso?
If you were guessing which method do you think would be easier?
I actually trust your opinion on the install more than TOV's.

Also, is WD-40 and/or Knockoff both fine to put on the O2 sensor bolt?
Or is no penetrating oil needed?

Thanks JTso! I really appreciate your help. My headers should get here today and I will be installing them on Saturday.

 

I'm going to be placing an order for a DC header today!!!

Just went out inspected my stock header from above and under, really seems like a very easy install.

Just a tip, TSX536, a few days before you install the header, spray down the bolts that you will be removing like once a day in order to ease the install even more.

 

Thanks Triz. PM our board vendor Excellerate. He has them for $290 shipped.

Also, I will spray the bolts I can get too, but there are about 5 nuts/bolts underneath the heatshield. Those are the bolts I'm really worried about getting off, but you can't get to them unless you remove the heatshield.

 

Awesome, thanks. I will now be placing my order through Excellerate.

heatshield is held on only by 3 bolts, shouldnt be tough to remove. Im going to remove the heatshield probally 2 days before i install and grease up all the bolts.

 

Good idea. I'll do that too.

I bet after I get off the heatshield, I'll be itching to just finish up the install.

 

haha yeah i dont blame ya. Why are you waiting until saturday anyways??? For me, its UPS arrives at door, place signiture, straight to my garage to get started

 

Well...I got a softball game tonight and I usually get home from work at like 7 - 7:30 on normal days.

I want to wait for a good time when my engine will be cold, I don't have to rush, and I have some good light.

We'll see if I'm able to hold out. Let me know if you end up getting them on before me. If you order today, you should be able to have them on before the weekend!

 

If you have a lift or plenty of ground clearance, then I'd say install as one-piece would be slightly easier just because you don't need to deal with the two O-rings poping off during installation on the 2-1 section of the pipe. Otherwise, installing the two pieces separately is not that hard and allows more room to maneuver the header up behind the engine. If I have to do it again, it still would be the two pieces method simply for the clearance issue.

You can spray penetration oil on all the header/pipe bolts/nuts, but I wouldn't spray it on the O2 sensor as it might ruin it. I would use the proper O2 sensor socket (highly recommended) or the correct size wrench instead. Also apply anti-seize lube on the O2 sensor thread (thread only!) before the reinstall.

 

Thanks JTso, I will install as two piece and also cover both sections with a old tshirt/towel to protect the ceramic coating while I manuever the header up behind the engine.

I will be using a 7/8" wrench for the o2 sensor removal. Is the anti-seize lube absolutely necessary?

 

It's not absolutely necessary but highly recommended. It will make your life a lot easier if you need to remove it again in the future. Otherwise, just imagine kicking yourself really hard if you couldn't get it out or end up breaking it the next time. Clear?

 

^^ Yes, very clear now.

 

Hurray! I came home today to find my header patiently waiting for me on the porch. I was supprised that it got here so soon. I keep telling myself that I'm gonna wait till Saturday but who am I kidding. The first nice day I get, that bad boy is going on.

Thanks to Jtso for the help on the install. I'm gonna go out tomorrow and get some anit-seize and a torque wrench. I've been meaning to get one of those anyway.

 

Could you take some close-up pics of the flex pipe where the flange opening is? That way you can be sure if you have the "fixed" version or not.

 

Okay, here are pictures of the flex pipe. If need be, I'll go have the flange welded before I get it installed.

 

Umm... it doesn't look like the fixed version that stokeless has. I wish stokeless can post a picture of his so you can see the difference... Could you take a brighter shot of the 2nd pic?

 

This is what you need, about $12 at the parts stores.
The deep socket type can stress the body of the sensor.



http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....re&dir=catalog

 

Yeah, I was thinking that I didn't get the fixed version ever. I guess I get what I paid for. I snagged it on ebay for $265. I'm thinking you mean that I need a bead around the inside of the pipe where the flex pipe meets of with the flange.

 

Yeah, I'm afraid you have to run a bead of weld on the two jointing pieces like the pic below. It's actually not difficult to do for a welder. So, I guess there are still old DC headers flowing around out there, unless you buy from a vendor that does drop-ship from DC directly...

 

Excellent. Thanks so much for the help Jtso. You just saved me a real pain in the ass down the road. I got a buddy at work with a welder so I'll just see if I can hit him up after work and have him take care of it. two thumbs up for Jtso!

PS. Does the bead need to go all the way around or just semi-circle like your picture shows?

 

Np

 

You can just tack weld in 4 points across from each other that will be enough to hold it.

 

stoke, do you have any closeup pics of your flange?

 

http://www.lislecorp.com/tool_detail.cfm?detail=31

is this kind not recommended then?

 

Yes I do...I have to find them I was lazy and never posted them...I will see if I can dig it up somewhere.

 

It will work for the TSX due to the location of the O2 sensors, but you need to be careful and don't let the socket wall bind up against the sensor to avoid damage. I still prefer the shorter one as posted by TSXTuner. But mine is not a snapon and a little cheaper.

 

Sounds like a few different people have the DC headers now. Tell me how your install goes fellas, I'll be putting mine in Saturday.

I'm going to check my headers for the extra weld when I get home today.

 

I did it all the way around and so did DC. If you have someone with the welder, it wouldn't take much time to run a nice bead, and can be sure the focker is not going to come apart!

 

We'll my friend can't do it tonight but there's a Meineke just down the street so I'm gonna hit them up first thing after work. Hopefully it's only cost about 20 bucks at the most. I'll let everybody know.

And where is the best place to get antiseize at? I was thinking about trying Autozone but if anybody else knows and can save me a drive I'd appreciate it.

 

Ok I will post mine hopefully today. But see where the flex pipe goes to the flange thats what I thought Jtso was talking about when he first told me about it because I couldnt see any other seams. So I tack welded that for no reason lol. But I will try and take new pix tonight and post them.

 

Just picked up some Permatex Anti seize lubricant from the Autozone. It was only $2.99.

I also picked up some penetrating oil. It was $4.39. I was debating between using this or WD-40 that I have already, but I figured I would get it just to be safe. Plus I'm already saving some money by doing my own install.

I'll be taking off my heatshield in the next couple of days. And spraying the bolts down everyday until Saturday morning. I'm tempted to do the install before that though, so we'll see if I can hold out.

 

Sweetness! Thanks for the info. And what do you know, there's an autozone on the way to Meineke.

 

Let me know how your install goes man. If there's anything that was diffcult or different than expected, please let me know.

What engine mods do you have already?