The rotors that came on the TSX suck as everyone knows and mine are warped, so I bought some replacements. Now I love to to the maintanance on my car myself of course I wanna do this to, but I've only changed rotors once on my prelude and it was mostly my friend doing it, this was awhile ago since then Ive become a lot more automotively inclined. Anyway I wanted to know if anyone can post up a How to guide or a step by step, it doesn't seem to hard but then again most difficult things are like that. thanx

 

what kinda rotors did u get man? how much is it?

 

How many miles do you have on your car?

 

its not that hard

1) take off your wheel
2) take off 2 bolts on the back of the brake caliper that hold the calider to the bracket
3) put a bent coat hanger through the caliper and hang it from the chasis
4) take out the 2 screws in the caliper, most likely this will require an impact screwdriver

and that's it

 

EBC Sport Grooved Rotors the pair came out to about $180

 

When will Honda learn to build brakes like Toyota! Grrrr.....

 

I agree that Honda has some catching up to do in this area. I only have 12,000 miles on my TSX and can already feel sone slight warping in my front rotors. Test drive the Mazda6 - you can get a sense of what great brakes feel like in a front driver.

 

Follow what xizor said and also remember to clean the rotor surface with "brake clean" spray before reinstalling the caliper. Because rotors are usually coated with oil from the factory during packaging. You might consider replacing the brake pads at the same time when you replace the rotors. Additionally, before you reinstall the wheel, apply a light coat of "anti-seize" lubricant on the wheel studs to protect them from the element.

 

pictures?

 

whats the purpose of number 3??

 

your caliper is connected by a hose to the car (carries the brake fluid). if you disonnect this hose you'll need to bleed the air out of your brakes when you put it on. if you leave it on, you can't completely remove the caliper from the car. hence, you'll need to hang it somewhere so you don't snap that hose off.

 

ahhh that is good to know thanks

and where are the pics Alucard13???

 

additional info from xizor's
1. 19mm socket for the lugnut
2. the two bolt should be a 14mm or 17 mm bolt
4. if you dont see 2 screws .. and see 2 holes .. get two 10 millimeter bolt and scew it in evenly. it'll push the rotor out as the bolt scew in.

 

I just replaced mine this weekend with the racing brake rotors and Hawk pads... very easy process, but impact tools help

Another suggestion, if you are going to also replace your pads, remove the old ones before you take off the caliper. Makes putting the caliber back on easier.

 

A big C clamp would help you push the piston back into the caliper if you have brand new pads going onto the rotor. Please use jack stands and not work on your car when it's on just a floor-jack. It sucks to have a car fall onto you.

P.S. You should bring your car back into the dealer (before installing your aftermarket ones) and get them to warranty your warped rotors so then you'll have a set of brand new rotors on the side for back up.

 

the dealer refused to warranty them thats why i bought new ones. Didn't feel like arguing anymore.

 

I have those on my GS-R. Waste of money if you ask me. I had them warp on me twice. So no improvement over OEM.

Honda can make good brakes. My Hybrid has just under 50K miles on it and it brakes as the day I road off the lot. My brothers S2000 (was mine) brakes (OEM) are one of the best brakes I have seen on any car (this includes cars with mod brakes).

 

I changed mine out last night...Axxis Pads and Rotora slotted rotors.

It is really easy, and you don't need an impact driver to remove anything. A breaker bar (for the caliper bolts) and No. 3 phillips (for the rotor screws) will do just fine. Also, I used a 4 way tire iron proped up under a lug to keep the hub from rotating as I wailed on the rotor screws.

 

When Toyota learns to make engines like Honda!

 

Also, for the rears I had to remove the slider pins first. You can't get to the caliper bracket bolts first like you can in the front. Disconnecting the hose brackets helps alot too, as does removing the E-Brake cables in the rear..JUST REMEMBER TO RECONNECT THEM!

A few pics of my finished product:

Front:

Rear:

 

Don't suppose you can grab another shot of the front rotor where the caliper meets the rotor can you. I am trying to see what type of gap is left between where the caliper and pad hit the rotor as compared to where the black coating ends. Much appreciated if you can!

 

Thanks for the pics. They look good IMO.,

I just rolled 15.5k on the stock rotors. I am going aftermarket as soon as the OEM pads wear out. I only drive 16 miles a day now, so it might be several months. My OEM rotors have not warped, yet.

 

DOn't forget to check out the sponsor forum...I have some RB rotors for a special price...

 

So is MrHeelToe's pic ok, or are you looking for a pic from the opposite angle with the wheel removed? If you want a pic with the wheel off I'll take it tomorrow night when I install my Goodridge brake lines.

 

Yeah, if you could still take the pic. His are a different type of brake. I wanna see the rotora rotors. Thanks! If the wheel is off, it's just a bonus, but I am just trying to see how much space is between where the pad connects to the rotor and the black coating on the rotor surface. If that makes sense.

 

Oh, I see what you are getting at...

There is a little area where the pads do not sweep the rotor and it is not coated....maybe a few millimeters...

Not to downplay your preferences, but there is only so good it is going to get. The pads cannot overlat coated areas, so they can only get it as close as possible.

 

I understand that, but when a company says they offer direct replacements, I would ASSUME that the black coating on the replacements is the same as that of a stock rotor. StopTech does not offer that, which are the rotors I got and want to replace, therefore, I am trying to compare different companies and their "replacement rotors".

 

It would be wrong to make assumtions....I can understand if you are hopeful though....I will investigate it a little and provide more information on the matter for you!

FYI, TSX rotors are shared with a number of other Hondas, including the CL, TL, MDX, Odyssey, and 6 speed accords....to get them ideantical to all those different rotors is not really possible, so some comprimised must be made.

 

Case in point. Two images attached, first being that of the StopTech "replacement rotor" on the front. Notice the excessive amount of rust that collects because the pad does not grab that part of the rotor. Regardless of what is being driven, MDX, Accord, TL, whatever, that band is gonna be there. Basically no R&D put into the product.
Second pic is of the Rotora rotor (rear), also shared w/ new Accord Coupe 6MT EX model. Notice the difference. I know there is gonna be a band of rust, I am not upset about that. It's the excessiveness of the rust. I made a bad purchase. No biggie. Lesson learned, however, I want to see what others are buying to make a comparison, before I shell out more cash for something that is NOT a direct replacement.

 

OHH, I misunderstood what you wanted....My front rotors look like the stoptech ones...and the rear ones like the rotora ones (doh, mine are rotoras just slotted rather than drilled)

So to sum, the Rotora front rotors will collect rust after a while

 

here are the pics I think you want:

Front..decent pad contact patch but not great:



Rear...almost perfect coverage.

 

jonnerd154-- have you washed your car since having put on the new rotors? I can see where the contact is, but doesn't look like any rust is building there.

 

Nope, not yet. I am going to this weekend and when I do I will take new pics. You can kinda see in those pics how much dust these new pads shed. :-/

 

Wait till you wash the car...tons of black crap will pour off your wheels.

 

Awesome. :-/ I remember my stock pads did this for about a week also.

You should see my friend's mini with white wheels. After a week they are black wheels, and she is not a spirited driver!

 

best reason to get gunmetal rims although my next set will be white

 

True, True..too bad I bought another set of stock wheels tho. All 4 for 400 brand new from my dealer. I might get them powder coated tho.

 

woah nice deal, i'd take a set from a dealer for that. know someone there?

 

Yeah, almost everyone there. They still don't have tires on them since I can't afford them. I want either Falken Azenis, or Toyo RA-1 so I'm saving up.

 

what does it mean to have breake rotors wraping?