Ultimate Car Care FAQ
#81
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exactly, interior is important, after all you drive the car from the *inside* ![Smile](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Get 303 Protectant (there's a dealer search on their site, google for it) or Lexol's Vinylex. The 303 will leave more of a matt finish, which i think for the TSX is more desirable.
-vasu
![Smile](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Get 303 Protectant (there's a dealer search on their site, google for it) or Lexol's Vinylex. The 303 will leave more of a matt finish, which i think for the TSX is more desirable.
-vasu
#84
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Vasu -
Great FAQ. I have a couple of comments/questions.
1. The claying process and/or preping the paint with a pre-wax cleaner (like One Grand Omega Hand Glaze or P21S Paintwork Cleanser) will remove the wax on the car far more efficiently than Dawn. The pre-wax cleaner also povides a really nice deep shine to apply your polymer or carnauba wax over. So if you are claying the car or using a pre-wax cleaner do you really need to use Dawn?
2. I recommend using a 100% Cotton Terry Towel, Cotton Terry Washmit (as you also recommend), or Sheepskin wash mit to wash the car down as opposed to a foam sponge. The sponge will not lift and trap dirt like any of the other methods listed above. Dirt will stay trapped between the sponge and paint as you slide it around. Even a natural sponge would be a better option (not much better and make sure you really clean it well before the first use to remove any sand or shells!). What ever the method you should rinse and rinse often!
3. Thanks for taking the time to consolidate all this information!
Great FAQ. I have a couple of comments/questions.
1. The claying process and/or preping the paint with a pre-wax cleaner (like One Grand Omega Hand Glaze or P21S Paintwork Cleanser) will remove the wax on the car far more efficiently than Dawn. The pre-wax cleaner also povides a really nice deep shine to apply your polymer or carnauba wax over. So if you are claying the car or using a pre-wax cleaner do you really need to use Dawn?
2. I recommend using a 100% Cotton Terry Towel, Cotton Terry Washmit (as you also recommend), or Sheepskin wash mit to wash the car down as opposed to a foam sponge. The sponge will not lift and trap dirt like any of the other methods listed above. Dirt will stay trapped between the sponge and paint as you slide it around. Even a natural sponge would be a better option (not much better and make sure you really clean it well before the first use to remove any sand or shells!). What ever the method you should rinse and rinse often!
3. Thanks for taking the time to consolidate all this information!
#85
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Originally posted by iVTECHokie
Vasu -
Great FAQ. I have a couple of comments/questions.
1. The claying process and/or preping the paint with a pre-wax cleaner (like One Grand Omega Hand Glaze or P21S Paintwork Cleanser) will remove the wax on the car far more efficiently than Dawn. The pre-wax cleaner also povides a really nice deep shine to apply your polymer or carnauba wax over. So if you are claying the car or using a pre-wax cleaner do you really need to use Dawn?
Vasu -
Great FAQ. I have a couple of comments/questions.
1. The claying process and/or preping the paint with a pre-wax cleaner (like One Grand Omega Hand Glaze or P21S Paintwork Cleanser) will remove the wax on the car far more efficiently than Dawn. The pre-wax cleaner also povides a really nice deep shine to apply your polymer or carnauba wax over. So if you are claying the car or using a pre-wax cleaner do you really need to use Dawn?
2. I recommend using a 100% Cotton Terry Towel, Cotton Terry Washmit (as you also recommend), or Sheepskin wash mit to wash the car down as opposed to a foam sponge. The sponge will not lift and trap dirt like any of the other methods listed above. Dirt will stay trapped between the sponge and paint as you slide it around. Even a natural sponge would be a better option (not much better and make sure you really clean it well before the first use to remove any sand or shells!). What ever the method you should rinse and rinse often!
3. Thanks for taking the time to consolidate all this information!
-vasu
#86
Great thread! I just have a couple questions:
1. I recently bought a CG TSX. Do I need to wait a while before applying a polish (i.e. Zaino's ZFX)?
2. When doing the "hardcore detailing process" with the polish (Zaino's ZFX), should I use Dawn soap only for the first time? When it's time to apply again, say in six months, should I go through exactly the same process with the Dawn soap and all?
3. I am planning to use Zaino's polish. So I need ZFX, Z-6 ... but do I need Z-2 (clear coated car finish) or Z-3 (regular paint)?
Thank you for your time, and sorry if these have already been answered.
1. I recently bought a CG TSX. Do I need to wait a while before applying a polish (i.e. Zaino's ZFX)?
2. When doing the "hardcore detailing process" with the polish (Zaino's ZFX), should I use Dawn soap only for the first time? When it's time to apply again, say in six months, should I go through exactly the same process with the Dawn soap and all?
3. I am planning to use Zaino's polish. So I need ZFX, Z-6 ... but do I need Z-2 (clear coated car finish) or Z-3 (regular paint)?
Thank you for your time, and sorry if these have already been answered.
#87
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Originally posted by DeathClaw
Great thread! I just have a couple questions:
1. I recently bought a CG TSX. Do I need to wait a while before applying a polish (i.e. Zaino's ZFX)?
Great thread! I just have a couple questions:
1. I recently bought a CG TSX. Do I need to wait a while before applying a polish (i.e. Zaino's ZFX)?
2. When doing the "hardcore detailing process" with the polish (Zaino's ZFX), should I use Dawn soap only for the first time? When it's time to apply again, say in six months, should I go through exactly the same process with the Dawn soap and all?
Some say using dawn twice a year is overkill and could cause damage, I disagree. If you're hesitant at all, don't feel forced to use it twice a year or at all if you don't want to.
Like I said in my situation, using Dawn twice a year really helps get those little palm tree seed/pods off and decreases the ammount of elbow work I have to put in when using a paint prep and/or clay bar.
3. I am planning to use Zaino's polish. So I need ZFX, Z-6 ... but do I need Z-2 (clear coated car finish) or Z-3 (regular paint)?
Thank you for your time, and sorry if these have already been answered.
Thank you for your time, and sorry if these have already been answered.
-vasu
#88
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Deathclaw . . . Im going to agree with vasu. Take care of the car the day you get it. Its better - sooner. You might even want to consider clay bar use on a first time, new car application. You have the glorious opportunity of near-perfect paint. Take that extra hour or so and get absolutely everything off the car, and yes there are things that Dawn wont remove.
CG ? Is that charcoal grey? If so, you might want to consider the ZF instead of Z2. If you are not buying the kit - with everything in it - that would be a worthwhile thought. Z5 helping you to stay ahead of micro-swirling etc that almost always can be found - expecially on darker colours.
Z6? Depending on where you live, and your car care habits - simply washing the car with the Z7 car wash, and use of the Z6 extends the applied Zaino lifespan well beyond 3 months . .The car wash contains some enhancing polymers,and the detail spray makes the car seemed freshly treated. The joy of Z6, if the car is simply dusty (depending on rain fall where you live, this can be for 6 months of the year) - then all you do is dust the car, and then 3 minutes applying Z6 gloss enhance, and voile - the car shines like you spent hours on it....
Using Dawn afetr several months to apply more coats is not a problem really. The car likely still has Zaino on it, and Dawn does not affect Zaino at all. if you have treated the car well inbetween these "sessions" - it would be fine to do that before applying more layers. If that is what you want to do, it will be fine. BUT, why not apply more Zaino layers every so often. each one makes the car look better, as it layers up, and each one helps hide the swirls that might be there. It is so fast to do, I cant imagine going 6 months without adding many layers to increase the results . .
CG ? Is that charcoal grey? If so, you might want to consider the ZF instead of Z2. If you are not buying the kit - with everything in it - that would be a worthwhile thought. Z5 helping you to stay ahead of micro-swirling etc that almost always can be found - expecially on darker colours.
Z6? Depending on where you live, and your car care habits - simply washing the car with the Z7 car wash, and use of the Z6 extends the applied Zaino lifespan well beyond 3 months . .The car wash contains some enhancing polymers,and the detail spray makes the car seemed freshly treated. The joy of Z6, if the car is simply dusty (depending on rain fall where you live, this can be for 6 months of the year) - then all you do is dust the car, and then 3 minutes applying Z6 gloss enhance, and voile - the car shines like you spent hours on it....
Using Dawn afetr several months to apply more coats is not a problem really. The car likely still has Zaino on it, and Dawn does not affect Zaino at all. if you have treated the car well inbetween these "sessions" - it would be fine to do that before applying more layers. If that is what you want to do, it will be fine. BUT, why not apply more Zaino layers every so often. each one makes the car look better, as it layers up, and each one helps hide the swirls that might be there. It is so fast to do, I cant imagine going 6 months without adding many layers to increase the results . .
#90
Question on Dawn.....I don't know what the dealer used to shine up the car when I bought it. If he used wax, would dawn hurt? I was planning on using dawn and then the zaino process w/ clay, polish etc.
Also - what is the deal with the "Only made in the usa" 100% cotton towels. I just bought a 100% cotton pack from Sam's, washed them and then noticed they are not "made in the usa". I assume this has more to do with politics than science?
I also boght the "absorber" - synthetic chamois, would I be better off w/ regular microfiber towels?
Also - what is the deal with the "Only made in the usa" 100% cotton towels. I just bought a 100% cotton pack from Sam's, washed them and then noticed they are not "made in the usa". I assume this has more to do with politics than science?
I also boght the "absorber" - synthetic chamois, would I be better off w/ regular microfiber towels?
#91
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1 - Dawn will remove ANY wax on a car - plain and simple. Thats why we say t iuse it before the Zaino process begins - you dont want wax on it.
2- made in the usa or canada cotton ensures all cotton. offshore uses poly in the backing materials and only the nap is cotton. thats the way it is/was for a long time - different rules out there.
3- microfibre can not be beat for drying or polish removal, detail spray use etc . . keep in mind - drying m/f is different than polish removal/detailing microfibre. They are processed differently, and be sure which the manufacturer is giving you. A popular item on the net is the "big blue" type drying towel . . . you could check out www.waynestowels.com for some more ideas. he has great stuff . . .
2- made in the usa or canada cotton ensures all cotton. offshore uses poly in the backing materials and only the nap is cotton. thats the way it is/was for a long time - different rules out there.
3- microfibre can not be beat for drying or polish removal, detail spray use etc . . keep in mind - drying m/f is different than polish removal/detailing microfibre. They are processed differently, and be sure which the manufacturer is giving you. A popular item on the net is the "big blue" type drying towel . . . you could check out www.waynestowels.com for some more ideas. he has great stuff . . .
#92
Thanks Homer.
So I guess I either need to cut off all the seams or return the towels. I will also be returning the "absorber" and getting some sort of microfiber towels for drying. I did get the Cali Water Blade as well.
So I guess I either need to cut off all the seams or return the towels. I will also be returning the "absorber" and getting some sort of microfiber towels for drying. I did get the Cali Water Blade as well.
#93
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its not just the seams, but that is important . .. it is also the backing material the cotton nap is sewn onto . .. thats the real potential for damage . . . thin nap, poly backing . .. yikes . .. if you want to stay with cotton, get Royal Velvet by Cannon Fieldcrest or go crazy and get their Charisma line . .. then again - good microfibre outlasts cotton as well as does more . ..
#95
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Vasu, I have a few questions.
1) You mentioned that, back in the day, circular motions were used for "wax on, wax off", but now back and forth motions should be used. If so, how do you explain the popularity of orbital buffers? I have a 9" buffer that works awesome, and as long as you use a clean cloth, no swirlies.
2) Any comments about Griot's products? They seem pretty expensive, but it looks like they've been around for a while. http://www.griotsgarage.com/index.jsp
Thanks...
1) You mentioned that, back in the day, circular motions were used for "wax on, wax off", but now back and forth motions should be used. If so, how do you explain the popularity of orbital buffers? I have a 9" buffer that works awesome, and as long as you use a clean cloth, no swirlies.
2) Any comments about Griot's products? They seem pretty expensive, but it looks like they've been around for a while. http://www.griotsgarage.com/index.jsp
Thanks...
#96
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current polishers are random orbital . . . unless you spent the big bucks on a porter cable . .
the direction of application is as much to do with the way light deals with zaino as it is about marking the surface . . why enhance it - there are natural eliptical patterns in paint pigment, until you polish them down with wetsanding etc . . .. a porter cable with the right peoducts in the skilled hands of someone can and does do wonders . . .
the straight directions is about "countering" the already existing swirls . . . the product fills them better since you are crossing over the indent . ..
griots stuff is fine . .. you wont go wrong with that . ..
its best (if you can afford it) to try out as many products as you can (based on excellent referrals) - until you have your socks knocked off . ..
the direction of application is as much to do with the way light deals with zaino as it is about marking the surface . . why enhance it - there are natural eliptical patterns in paint pigment, until you polish them down with wetsanding etc . . .. a porter cable with the right peoducts in the skilled hands of someone can and does do wonders . . .
the straight directions is about "countering" the already existing swirls . . . the product fills them better since you are crossing over the indent . ..
griots stuff is fine . .. you wont go wrong with that . ..
its best (if you can afford it) to try out as many products as you can (based on excellent referrals) - until you have your socks knocked off . ..
#99
Ok. so I had wax on my car, as an experiment i used dawn to wash it. My car still beaded as if it had a layer of wax on it. If you guys think that dawn alone will remove wax, you need to rethink your process. Granted DAWN will remove a lot more than a regular car wash soap but I think you need to clay your car in order to truly get all the wax off.
#100
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Swirl Marks
My new car is about two weeks old now, and I'm starting to regret allowing the dealer to talk me into their paint protection. The more I look at the paint, the more I'm noticing all kinds of swirl marks, which I must assume they caused when they applied the stuff.
Question: How can I tell if these swirl marks are just in the paint sealant (Diamond Kote) they used, or if they're in the clear coat paint itself?
Will I have to get the car polished with a paint polish, as suggested here?
Here are a few pictures. These are some of the worst I've noticed, but if you look in the right light, the entire car is covered in fine marks like these. Note that these marks are not visible when looking at the car normally. You have to get up close, be in bright light, and/or look at an angle.
These are just three views of the same panel, because as the angle and lighting changes, you can see different things. Click on each picture to zoom in:
![](http://conrad.st/images/car/IMGP6534w.jpg)
![](http://conrad.st/images/car/IMGP6536w.jpg)
Question: How can I tell if these swirl marks are just in the paint sealant (Diamond Kote) they used, or if they're in the clear coat paint itself?
Will I have to get the car polished with a paint polish, as suggested here?
Here are a few pictures. These are some of the worst I've noticed, but if you look in the right light, the entire car is covered in fine marks like these. Note that these marks are not visible when looking at the car normally. You have to get up close, be in bright light, and/or look at an angle.
These are just three views of the same panel, because as the angle and lighting changes, you can see different things. Click on each picture to zoom in:
![](http://conrad.st/images/car/IMGP6534w.jpg)
![](http://conrad.st/images/car/IMGP6536w.jpg)
![](http://conrad.st/images/car/IMGP6537w.jpg)
#101
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Originally Posted by cconrad
My new car is about two weeks old now, and I'm starting to regret allowing the dealer to talk me into their paint protection. The more I look at the paint, the more I'm noticing all kinds of swirl marks, which I must assume they caused when they applied the stuff.
Question: How can I tell if these swirl marks are just in the paint sealant (Diamond Kote) they used, or if they're in the clear coat paint itself?
Will I have to get the car polished with a paint polish, as suggested here?
Here are a few pictures. These are some of the worst I've noticed, but if you look in the right light, the entire car is covered in fine marks like these. Note that these marks are not visible when looking at the car normally. You have to get up close, be in bright light, and/or look at an angle.
These are just three views of the same panel, because as the angle and lighting changes, you can see different things. Click on each picture to zoom in:
![](http://conrad.st/images/car/IMGP6534w.jpg)
![](http://conrad.st/images/car/IMGP6536w.jpg)
![](http://conrad.st/images/car/IMGP6537w.jpg)
Question: How can I tell if these swirl marks are just in the paint sealant (Diamond Kote) they used, or if they're in the clear coat paint itself?
Will I have to get the car polished with a paint polish, as suggested here?
Here are a few pictures. These are some of the worst I've noticed, but if you look in the right light, the entire car is covered in fine marks like these. Note that these marks are not visible when looking at the car normally. You have to get up close, be in bright light, and/or look at an angle.
These are just three views of the same panel, because as the angle and lighting changes, you can see different things. Click on each picture to zoom in:
![](http://conrad.st/images/car/IMGP6534w.jpg)
![](http://conrad.st/images/car/IMGP6536w.jpg)
![](http://conrad.st/images/car/IMGP6537w.jpg)
Just another reason why you dont buy any extras from dealers. $500 for them to swirl the shit out of your car. This shit just gets me
![Mad](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/mad.gif)
#102
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Update: The service manager saw the car and agreed that the swirling was unacceptable. (He also complimented my photography skills
.) He sent the car out to a guy named Zoren at Detailz. He didn't consult with me before doing this; he just called to let me know what they did. Supposedly this is the guy they trust with their NSXs and their difficult black jobs. Anybody ever heard of them?
Anyway, I go back in a couple of hours to see how it looks.
I'm not sure I'll get any of my money back from them, mind you. But if it looks perfect I guess that will be okay.
![Smile](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Anyway, I go back in a couple of hours to see how it looks.
I'm not sure I'll get any of my money back from them, mind you. But if it looks perfect I guess that will be okay.
#103
Team Owner
Sounds like the service manager tried to take care of you. I would have liked to have them made me the offer of paying for the detailing first (my choice of detailer) but it looks like they sent it to a reputable place. Let us know how it works out.
#104
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Yup, it looks good now. I'd say Zoran got rid of 95% of the swirls. You really have to stick your nose in it and get the lighting just right to see any now, which I'd say it pretty good for a black car. I'm satisfied.
Still, the overall experience has been frustrating; the service manager said he'd see what he could do in terms of getting management to give me some kind of refund on the initial protection stuff. We'll see.
Still, the overall experience has been frustrating; the service manager said he'd see what he could do in terms of getting management to give me some kind of refund on the initial protection stuff. We'll see.
#105
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Originally Posted by cconrad
Yup, it looks good now. I'd say Zoran got rid of 95% of the swirls. You really have to stick your nose in it and get the lighting just right to see any now, which I'd say it pretty good for a black car. I'm satisfied.
Still, the overall experience has been frustrating; the service manager said he'd see what he could do in terms of getting management to give me some kind of refund on the initial protection stuff. We'll see.
Still, the overall experience has been frustrating; the service manager said he'd see what he could do in terms of getting management to give me some kind of refund on the initial protection stuff. We'll see.
#106
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Chapter Leader (South Florida Region)
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Hey...I KNOW this is an old thread but I need help. I went through EVERY towel in Bed Bath and Beyond and Target yesterday and the closest I found was 100% USA made from Brazilian cotton. Should this mean it was held to US standards? It was Wamsutta collection.
EVERYTHING was from Thailand/Pakistan/China.
Anybody? Where else should I try or was that ok? What about bamboo thread towels. Those felt soft!
EVERYTHING was from Thailand/Pakistan/China.
Anybody? Where else should I try or was that ok? What about bamboo thread towels. Those felt soft!
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