Sportshift, 'M' mode
#1
PennState
Thread Starter
Sportshift, 'M' mode
I used to drive a manual and having the option of driving it in "manual" is truly a luxury. However, i heared that if you drive it in the Sportshift mode often, the transmission has a higher chance of failing. is that true?
#4
Three Wheelin'
Sportshift could lead to a higher chance of engine/transmission failure because people often over rev or do crazy things while in that mode. If using it correctly, I see no reason for it to cause premature failure.
#5
Je t'aime...
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My cousin owns an automatic TSX, and the "M" mode shouldn't damage your transmission.
Even if you rev high in "M" mode, there's a fuel cut off point which means right at redline the fuel gets cut off so it don't damage your engine.
However, reving your high is abusing the car, and will potentially shorten the lifespan of some mechanical parts.
Even if you rev high in "M" mode, there's a fuel cut off point which means right at redline the fuel gets cut off so it don't damage your engine.
However, reving your high is abusing the car, and will potentially shorten the lifespan of some mechanical parts.
#6
mrgold35
I don’t think Acura would build a feature in a product that would cause a failure. The manual mode on the 5AT is pretty idiot proof. You can’t down shift or up shift unless you are within the proper rpm and mph range. Like HondaOnWORKS said the fuel cut off will kick in before engine damage will occur.
The only way a person can cause 5AT damage is from not doing proper maintenance and then pushing the car to its limits (no maint = lower limits on engine/trans parts).
The only way a person can cause 5AT damage is from not doing proper maintenance and then pushing the car to its limits (no maint = lower limits on engine/trans parts).
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#8
I use Sportshift on a daily basis and I am at 116,000km and my AT has no problems whatsoever. Of course, I have changed the automatic transmission fluid more often than suggested by Acura due to my heavy usage and abuse of the AT Sportshift.
If you rev the car alot, the key is to have frequent oil changes and keep your car in good maintenance. Revving the car won't really cause any premature wear, unless you have modified the ECU in some way to allow the car to rev over the factory set rev limit.
If you rev the car alot, the key is to have frequent oil changes and keep your car in good maintenance. Revving the car won't really cause any premature wear, unless you have modified the ECU in some way to allow the car to rev over the factory set rev limit.
#10
mrgold35
I think normal intervals is about 60,000 miles depending on driving conditions; which seems kinda long to me. I change mine at 30,000 miles using only Acura techs and fluids.
I had an 97 Honda Accord back in the day with +130,000 miles and I took it to a whatever transmission place to change the oil and my 4AT trans failed completely about 5-7,000 miles later. It could of been its time, the oil they used or both. Not taking any chances for the TSX or RDX in the future, Acura/Honda ATF only.
I had an 97 Honda Accord back in the day with +130,000 miles and I took it to a whatever transmission place to change the oil and my 4AT trans failed completely about 5-7,000 miles later. It could of been its time, the oil they used or both. Not taking any chances for the TSX or RDX in the future, Acura/Honda ATF only.
#12
mrgold35
I wouldn't hurt to have an Acura tech check out the TSX from bumper-to-bumper the next time you take it in.
Do you know if they did the power steering hose recall fix? Good reason to take the TSX in for a free repair, loaner car and check over.
Last edited by mrgold35; 01-11-2011 at 09:11 AM.
#13
Normal change interval is 120K miles the first time, every 60K after that. Severe service schedule is half that. It can't hurt to change it earlier. If the car was serviced at an Acura dealer (or possibly a Honda dealer), the service record should be available at any Acura dealer (it's all in the computer, just bring the VIN). Assuming you've bought the car used, I'd recommend changing all of the fluids, even if you've been told the car was serviced regularly. Oh, the maintenance schedule and many things are available in the OWNER'S MANUAL. It's a wealth of handy information and recommended reading.
#14
If you know which Acura dealership servied the TSX, they might have a record? The TSX will notify you when service is due. That does not mean the TSX was service at a Acura dealership. Also, the owner could of done the work themselves and reset the maint light.
I wouldn't hurt to have an Acura tech check out the TSX from bumper-to-bumper the next time you take it in.
Do you know if they did the power steering hose recall fix? Good reason to take the TSX in for a free repair, loaner car and check over.
I wouldn't hurt to have an Acura tech check out the TSX from bumper-to-bumper the next time you take it in.
Do you know if they did the power steering hose recall fix? Good reason to take the TSX in for a free repair, loaner car and check over.
#15
it's a car-drive it
Normal change interval is 120K miles the first time, every 60K after that. Severe service schedule is half that. It can't hurt to change it earlier. If the car was serviced at an Acura dealer (or possibly a Honda dealer), the service record should be available at any Acura dealer (it's all in the computer, just bring the VIN). Assuming you've bought the car used, I'd recommend changing all of the fluids, even if you've been told the car was serviced regularly. Oh, the maintenance schedule and many things are available in the OWNER'S MANUAL. It's a wealth of handy information and recommended reading.
#16
Make a hole, coming thru!
If you use SS mode, I would change your tranny fluid according to the "severe" intervals, as Simba said. For my 2006, the manual (p. 274) recommends at 60,000 and every 30,000 thereafter. Sound advice IMHO. The Acura technician guide has a specific procedure for this (drain & fill, run, flush, drain & fill, run, flush, something like that), if you have a non-dealer perform the change, check the proper procedure for your TSX and transmission type.
Likewise if you rev the engine high regularly (Hondata, anyone?), I'd change the oil frequently (5,000 ought to be fine) ... I use Mobil 1 full synth, a matter of personal preference and economics, as I get it cheap with coupons at Costco.
Likewise if you rev the engine high regularly (Hondata, anyone?), I'd change the oil frequently (5,000 ought to be fine) ... I use Mobil 1 full synth, a matter of personal preference and economics, as I get it cheap with coupons at Costco.
Last edited by davidspalding; 01-22-2011 at 12:36 AM. Reason: adding technical note
#17
Instructor
The Achilles heels of a Honda/Acura has been the AT. I had a 98 Prelude with SS that was an early application of this and was well know to be problematic, even though Honda would recall 99-01 models only.
I am a fan of using Lubeguard ATF additive which is sold at NAPA , but frequent ATF change intervals is the best insurance, and Honda/Acura ATF is a great choice unless you wanted to go with something like Amsoil or Mobil 1. A great resource is bobistheoilguy.com for this.
In addition, if you get too crazy and try something (stupid) like redlining in 3rd and suddenly shift into 2nd, the ecu will "queue" that gear until the revs drop so it is safe to engage.
Also, I don't like to rev above 3k until the engine is warmed up, this is just another safeguard.
I am a fan of using Lubeguard ATF additive which is sold at NAPA , but frequent ATF change intervals is the best insurance, and Honda/Acura ATF is a great choice unless you wanted to go with something like Amsoil or Mobil 1. A great resource is bobistheoilguy.com for this.
In addition, if you get too crazy and try something (stupid) like redlining in 3rd and suddenly shift into 2nd, the ecu will "queue" that gear until the revs drop so it is safe to engage.
Also, I don't like to rev above 3k until the engine is warmed up, this is just another safeguard.
Last edited by Ck98vteC; 01-28-2011 at 09:28 PM.
#18
Make a hole, coming thru!
... and Honda/Acura ATF is a great choice unless you wanted to go with something like Amsoil or Mobil 1. A great resource is bobistheoilguy.com for this.
In addition, if you get too crazy and try something (stupid) like redlining in 3rd and suddenly shift into 2nd, the ecu will "queue" that gear until the revs drop so it is safe to engage.
Also, I don't like to rev above 3k until the engine is warmed up, this is just another safeguard.
In addition, if you get too crazy and try something (stupid) like redlining in 3rd and suddenly shift into 2nd, the ecu will "queue" that gear until the revs drop so it is safe to engage.
Also, I don't like to rev above 3k until the engine is warmed up, this is just another safeguard.
I concur that redlining when cold isn't such a great idea, but when the engine's been running 30 seconds, the oil is distributed. Time and again I read that one benefit of really good oil is the startup ... viscosity of the cold oil on the initial RPMs on engine start. That's why I tick with Mobil 1 full synth -- it doesn't get terribly cold (and I don't pull out of the Batcave at 88.1 mph with the engine turbines maxxed out), but I like the extra TLC that a full synth oil provides. YMMV.
As far as queuing the lower gear ... I have the Hondata reflash, aaaaaaand I'm not sure if they have that function. I presume so. I know the governor function is NOT there, so you do have to shift at redline, the throttle won't cut off on you.
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