Spoon_TSX engine
07-01-2004, 12:38 AM
#82
Originally Posted by Cyde
you guys all made good points, but no one metions about the load the alternator creates or takes, for those of you that have removed you AC or power steering pump for more horse power, you can see the same thing happning when you are reducing the load on your alternator, which eats power from the engine.
yes it's more like recovering HP you've lost..i've seen +1-2hp, but maninly it's just to help the car run smoother, idle better, lights and start up flicker less etc..
yes it's more like recovering HP you've lost..i've seen +1-2hp, but maninly it's just to help the car run smoother, idle better, lights and start up flicker less etc..
07-05-2004, 05:47 PM
#86
Burning Brakes
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Originally Posted by Tsex on 19s
yea sazuki im feelin the grounding kit..
It is not my engine bay btw.... it is Spoon_TSX's
my ground wires are red.
10-26-2005, 02:44 AM
#87
C'mon, man! Row yer own.
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This sounds like a pretty fun thing to try -- for $25 worth of wires and an hour or so bolting them around the engine bay, what could it hurt? I'll post my impressions of huge hp gains, wheel-shredding torque, and (more likely) better starting/throttle response -- if any is perceptible.
10-26-2005, 03:31 AM
#88
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Originally Posted by Helicobacter Pylori
Grounding wires = more horsepower because, it redirects the electricity either from battery or lightening to the ground, instead of passing on from the aluminum shift nod to human body, countacting an interference with neurotransmitter that causes numbing sensation and unnoticeably slow reflection time, or simple preventing you from fucking up the brain.
10-26-2005, 07:02 AM
#89
Instructor
Originally Posted by PixelHarmony
Wow, you must be a molecular and cellular biology major. You're forgetting that myelinated axons will conduct exponentially faster than naked axons, so the contact points between the shiftknob and parts of your hand that affect the somatic sensory neurons will have a delayed time in delivering the sensation thus giving the effect of more horse power by keeping your brain at a perpetually shocked state during momentary acceleration
10-26-2005, 07:29 AM
#90
4th Gear
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I have read numerous posts about grounding wires. I'm sure some gains are there after they are installed, but how do they get there? Let me try to explain it.
In my line of work (RF) we must ensure that everything is grounded properly if not the system doesn't work TO IT'S POTENTIAL! This doesn't mean that it doesn't work, it just means that it works BETTER when everything is grounded properly. In electrical systems, ground serves as a reference point. Everything is referenced to ground. Let's apply this logic to an automobile.
How many sensors are in a TSX? Right off the top of my head I count about 5 major ones. TPS (or TBW sensor), CTS, O2, MAP, MAF. All of these sensors "adjust" some sort of ECU voltage. These readings allow the ECU to properly adjust engine parameters (fuel injector PW, timing advance, etc) to maximize efficiency. (I used the word "adjust" instead of "send" because some sensors don't send anything, they just change resistance.)
So let's say that the ECU is expecting a 2V swing from the CTS sensor, meaning that 3V = cold engine and 1V = hot engine. The CTS sensor will change resistance depending on the temperature of the coolant. The ECU sends out a given voltage and measures the voltage drop across the sensor to determine temp. Now the ECU can correlate a voltage drop to a given temperature, but since our grounding points are NOT at the same potential, there are going to be small variations. (This is especially true for one wire sensors in which a voltage is sent from the ECU on one wire and allowed to ground thru the body of the sensor, into the engine block, to the chassis, and finally back to the battery.) If we have a 0.5V difference in ground potential, that's 25% of the 2V drop the ECU is expecting.
How then, can the ECU adjust the fuel and timing maps? It's going to adjust it according to sensor inputs, but these can be off by small amounts. If EVERY sensor in the engine electrical system is off by a small amount, the efficiency of the engine is going to drop. Every calculation the ECU makes is based on engine parameters and if these are off, then the resulting ECU changes are going to be off too.
By adding large ground wires to the same spot on the chassis, you minimize the effects of different ground potentials AKA ground loops. By grounding the engine block, tranny, battery, fenders, etc to the same spot, then you only have to worry about the resistance of the wires used. Larger wire = less resistance. You can never totally get rid of ground loops, but you can lessen their effects. This is why you don't "daisy chain" your ground wires.
Having all engine electrical systems on the same ground potential will allow the engine to run efficiently. Minimizing ground loops reduces noise in the system and gives the ECU better data which in turn allows the ECU to make proper adjustments based on TRUE engine parameters. Increased efficiency = more power.
I hope this de-mystifies the use of ground wires.
-Corvus
In my line of work (RF) we must ensure that everything is grounded properly if not the system doesn't work TO IT'S POTENTIAL! This doesn't mean that it doesn't work, it just means that it works BETTER when everything is grounded properly. In electrical systems, ground serves as a reference point. Everything is referenced to ground. Let's apply this logic to an automobile.
How many sensors are in a TSX? Right off the top of my head I count about 5 major ones. TPS (or TBW sensor), CTS, O2, MAP, MAF. All of these sensors "adjust" some sort of ECU voltage. These readings allow the ECU to properly adjust engine parameters (fuel injector PW, timing advance, etc) to maximize efficiency. (I used the word "adjust" instead of "send" because some sensors don't send anything, they just change resistance.)
So let's say that the ECU is expecting a 2V swing from the CTS sensor, meaning that 3V = cold engine and 1V = hot engine. The CTS sensor will change resistance depending on the temperature of the coolant. The ECU sends out a given voltage and measures the voltage drop across the sensor to determine temp. Now the ECU can correlate a voltage drop to a given temperature, but since our grounding points are NOT at the same potential, there are going to be small variations. (This is especially true for one wire sensors in which a voltage is sent from the ECU on one wire and allowed to ground thru the body of the sensor, into the engine block, to the chassis, and finally back to the battery.) If we have a 0.5V difference in ground potential, that's 25% of the 2V drop the ECU is expecting.
How then, can the ECU adjust the fuel and timing maps? It's going to adjust it according to sensor inputs, but these can be off by small amounts. If EVERY sensor in the engine electrical system is off by a small amount, the efficiency of the engine is going to drop. Every calculation the ECU makes is based on engine parameters and if these are off, then the resulting ECU changes are going to be off too.
By adding large ground wires to the same spot on the chassis, you minimize the effects of different ground potentials AKA ground loops. By grounding the engine block, tranny, battery, fenders, etc to the same spot, then you only have to worry about the resistance of the wires used. Larger wire = less resistance. You can never totally get rid of ground loops, but you can lessen their effects. This is why you don't "daisy chain" your ground wires.
Having all engine electrical systems on the same ground potential will allow the engine to run efficiently. Minimizing ground loops reduces noise in the system and gives the ECU better data which in turn allows the ECU to make proper adjustments based on TRUE engine parameters. Increased efficiency = more power.
I hope this de-mystifies the use of ground wires.
-Corvus
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