Hey guys...love the forum...you all really know your stuff. Purchased a 2005 GC TSX back in June in Chicagoland. Have really enjoyed driving the car over the summer months. Several questions for the experts here...

1. What tire pressure do you guys use? I do mostly city driving. I want to get maximum gas mileage.

2. At how many miles should I have the oil changed for the first time?

3. Can you cycle through the channels using the hand controls, or is the only option the knob on the radio? I ask becasue my wife has XM in her Jeep Liberty and she can use the hand controls to change channels within a category.

Thanks for all the help. I look forward to being a member of this forum

1. I use 38/36 and get very good gas mileage

2. I did mine after 5,000 miles. See manual...

3. nope...not that I know of...

1. I would stick with 32. Most of the time driving will heat up your tires anyway which increases the pressure in your tires. If it is hotter outside it will also add to this effect. Most likely when checking your tire pressure, you are checking them cold, so it might actually be more than 32 while your driving. If you put too much pressure in it will cause your tires to doughnut and you'll wear the inside of your tread out much faster. In summer heat, less is okay because your tires will heat up more and bring your tire pressure up to 32, if the weather is colder, 32 is probably just about right.

2. This is a really controversial question. Typically on a new engine, you want to change the oil at 300 miles or so because the break-in process will create alot of extra junk in your oil and you want to get it out. The thing about Acura, is that they run the engines a bit at the factory, so most of the break in is done there. In addition, factory fill oil is special oil for new engines and the extended break in period. Acura says you dont need to change the oil until 5k miles, however the engine can be considered totally broken in way before that, so my recommendation would be to change it inbetween 2.5K and 3K miles. That way, you get the most out of the factory fill oil, and you get the extended break in junk out of there sooner. Use non-synthetic oil for at least the first two oil changes and then it is okay to switch to synthetic. If you change the oil yourself, DO NOT USE FRAM!!! Fram is the only oil filter who has consistently performed at the bottom year after year. Spring for a more expensive oil filter, it will do your engine good and it's only a few dollars more. Consider buying an Acura oil filter. I'm not entirely sure on Acura quality oil filters but I've also got a Maxima, and Nissan filters are higher quality than most others out there.

3. I'm an engine guy. Can't help you here

1. 38F/36R I usually check them when I fill up so the tires are already heated up. The stockies sidewall says 41PSI max so you even have 3PSI headroom.

2. Consult the manual and it will tell you your first oil change not be any sooner than 5000mi.

3. With the non-navi/nonXM version you can cycle through all the preset stations.

Err...FRAM makes many of the Acura OEM filters now.

1) Don't know
2) 3-5000 miles is fine. Sooner is OK, but really not necessary. Stick with a 3-5000 mi. service interval unless analysis shows that the oil is suitable for longer use. This is provided that you use conventional.
3) Don't know

Mike

Is FRAM really that bad??

I've been using FRAM oil filters for 10 years now on all my cars.

Why do some people think FRAM is bad?

A filter is just a filter, I dont think it takes rocket science to produce a good filter.

I took a LOT of fire on another forum when saying that filters don't matter. The correct way is to express this is to state that you should use the correct filter for the correct application, and it is unnecessary to go overboard. (3K drains with a M1 filter, LOL)

FRAM Extra Guard is overpriced for what you get...if they were $2 each I wouldn't have a problem using them, but they're just better filters for the money.

However, if I get two FRAMs for free with a case of Pennzoil...I might become too tempted to try them.

Mike

FRAM uses low quality parts. Other filters that use metal pieces are substituted with plastic and cardboard in FRAM filters. FRAM has consistently ranked in the bottom year after year. Read it for yourself. This kind of information is NOT hard to find!

http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html

Again:
This filter cartridge has a small outside diameter with a rather low filter element surface area (193 sqin), and features cardboard end caps that are glued in place. The rubber anti-drainback valve seals the rough metal backplate to the cardboard end cap and easily leaks, causing dirty oil to drain back into the pan. If you have a noisy valve train at startup, this filter is likely the cause. The bypass valves are plastic and are sometimes not molded correctly, which allows them to leak. The backplate has smaller and fewer oil inlet holes, which may restrict flow.

The telltale signs for a Fram Extra Guard are: It has 8 small holes for the oil inlet and a thin, cheap looking backplate, and is currently stamped with a "2Y". There are 5 very small crimps holding the gasket in place. If you look into the center hole all the way to the top of the filter, you will see a kind of "button" in the end cap of the cartridge (which looks like it's made of metal from there). This is the plastic bypass valve.

Again:
http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/515
http://www.mr2.com/TEXT/oil_filter_test.html

Again:
http://www.corolland.com/oil-filters.html

On FRAM Tough-Gaurd:
General observations: The anti-drainback valve rubber was the thinnest and flimsiest of all the filters. Pretty good glue job on attaching filter element to the cardboard end caps. This filter has the grip area on the outside of the canister which makes it easier to tighten the filter by hand when putting it on the car, the only down-side I've experienced with this grip area is trying to get a filter removal tool cap over it, a really tight fit. This filter appears to be the lowest quality of the group. But it is one of the most expensive of the group too, I guess marketing costs are pretty high here. The cardboard end-caps for the filter element, the cheap plastic by-pass valve and the flimsy anti-drainback valve will make me stay away from this filter. This filter is made in Canada. I can't tell what standards it meets (J806 or J1858).


I once read a long letter published by an ex-Fram employee listing all of the reasons why he wouldn't touch a Fram filter with a 20ft. pole. I wish I could find it. Regardless, this should give you enough to chew on. If Fram is indeed making Acura filters, I will definitely think twice when purchasing an Acura oil filter.

I do believe there are 3 companies (maybe more) making OEM Honda filters: Honeywell, Filtech and Fram.

Honeywell=Fram.

OK, don't get too "into" the FRAM thing. Yes, I see them fail (partially) day in and day out, usually in the ADBV area. However, rarely do they COMPLETELY fail.

Honestly, as bad as they are, I've never seen a FRAM filter "kill" an engine. Personally, I wouldn't buy them solely due to price, though I wouldn't have a problem using 'em for 3-4K drains if they're free.

Mike

I guess this is all relative. If you're not going to have your car for very long, <100k miles, than I guess FRAM is okay. Rarely do we see an oil filter "kill" an engine, because that means that the filter would have to explode and leak out all the oil, and for you to drive without oil for a significant amount of time - and this rarely happens.

Technically, you could take the filter element out of the oil-filter and just run straight unfiltered oil back into the engine and your engine will not be "killed" - but does this mean it is okay to do this? In the same way, is it okay to put a FRAM filter on your car? A higher quality oil filter will increase the life of your engine, if that is what you desire. If you desire a free or cheap oil filter over engine life, than be my guest and buy all the FRAM you want. Regardless, if you use FRAM and you sell your car with a significant number of miles on it - I feel sorry for person who buys it.

Mike, any particular brand of oil filter that you recommend/currently use?

OK... Now that that you have everyone's attention and haved scared the crap out of some, "What is the best filter to buy and why." Let us remember here that the $$$ difference between a cheapy and an over priced filter is what - $5 +/- and it's protecting a $30K car!

Spread the wealth & wisdom and crown the winner. Who makes the best TSX filter and why is it the best?

Ahh, somebody finally asks the $60K question. If you read some of the links I have provided you can probably make a pretty good guess. In fact, there are only a small handful of filters to avoid (FRAM obviously being one of them). Choosing a recommended filter (maybe not even the expensive ones) and you will probably be okay. For the overprotective nuts out there (like me) I have drawn the conclusion:

If you want cheaper and still want good filtration, go with Purolator Pure One. This one uses synthetic filter, which is better than the paper ones. The Mobile 1 also uses synthetic material but is more expensive. I only have 500 miles on my TSX, so I still have a while to find out what I like more for my TSX. I currently use only Nissan filters for my Maxima, but if I didnt, I would probably use Mobile 1. I'm interested to try Amsoil though. I haven't tried it yet, but I hear that the only filter better than all of these is the Amsoil. Supposedly synthetic oil won't even turn brown until after 5K miles with an Amsoil filter....I am curious to try one, and if you are willing to dish out the cash for a Mobile1, than you shouldn't have too much of a problem spending an extra dollar or two for the Amsoil.

Research Amsoil, and if you find any credible information, post it here. Or better yet, if you USE Amsoil, please post your results. I would love to hear more about Amsoil filters.

Do you know that the Purolator PureOne filter MAY be restrictive in some apps?

There are many reasons why an oil turns dark...blowby, dirt, etc...but any FF filter won't filter well enough to keep the oil clear...if you want the oil to stay clear, use a TP bypass.

Amsoil holds up well again fuel dilution but has oxidation issues (thickening). Mobil 1 does not stand up against dirt, chem, fuel ingestion and solids buildup. Notice that its Flashpoint drops rapidly when those issues are present.

The Amsoil filters are made by Hastings, I believe. I don't know why more people don't endorse the $2 Supertech 7317 filter, it is excellent for 3-5K drains.

Syn oils have an advantage in temperature resistance, but do not always allow extended drains as other things may be the limiting factor (i.e. filtration, viscosity, anti-wear add,etc)

Mike

Those Supertech (Champion Labs) Filters are a solid value at $2 each, so are the Advanced Auto Total Grip Filters and the Purolator Premium Plus filters. Those two are about $3 each.

Mike

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Hi,
I have a 2004 TSX in Chicago area as well. My dealer recommended 3000 mi, 3 month rule for oil changes. I think it is a small price to pay keep the engine in good shape for a long long time.

On question 3. My channel changer works just like you describe for the Jeep. I can change channels within FM1, FM 2 or AM ( six channels) Have to hit the button on the radio to change the bands.

My understanding is there is no disadvantage changing engine oil in 5000 mile/6 months interval. It save you some $$ and spare the environment from waste engine oil.

Why does Acura state that it is fine for normal drivers to have a 10K oil change cycle; then the dealers start singing an entirely different tune. Most of you seem to think 5K miles is a good number, but my dealer says get the oil changed every 3750 miles. Something smells there.

So which should it be? 3750, 5000, or 10000? Don't bother explaining about the "severe" vs "normal" driving; I have read and reread that. I am in the "normal" range, thus according to the Acura factory write-up I should be able to go 10,000 miles between oil changes.

Follow the manual. Dealers try to get you in more often because they make money that way.

If you use a full Syn Oil and have a good oil filter installed you should easily be able to run up to 10K miles before changing your oil. That is of course unless you are driving in "harsh" conditions, etc. The proper SAE rating for your vehicle & temp. conditions will insure that you oil is well within its viscosity range for proper lubrication. That's why I'm so intent on finding the best filter I can find. A top grade Syn Oil will not break down like Dino Oil will. But remember a Syn Oil is highly detergent and will hold in suspenion all sorts of dirt, crud & other bad guys. The other factor to look at is the oil's ability to "per-lubricate" or adhere to the engine componets allowing the least metal-to-metal friction on start-up. But that's a whole other topic.

BTW - I''m still waiting for all you experts out there to tell what's the best filter to buy for the TSX and why it's the best... I've got the oil thing zeroed in and am trying to settle the filter questions.

Thoughts & opinions???

I'll just keep using FRAM oil filters some of you are just to anal I think.

I'm anal myself, but i'm not going to go out of my way to buy a "better" filter.

I use synthetic oil and change my oil at 3k.

I buy my oil and filter combo at walmart. If walmart had a better brand then i'd buy it. But all they have is FRAM and STP oil filters so FRAM it is!

I DO NOT believe that using FRAM filters will decrease the life of an engine. If you guys think that they you guys are CRAZY.

I owned 3 cars and they ran 250k+ miles with no problems using FRAM oil filters.

I think the key is to just change your oil more using less intervals. 3-4k miles.. not 7k+ miles.

You don't need to use synthetic oil if you change it every 3k mi. I find it incongruous that you would spend the money on synthetic oil but not on a "better" filter. But then, if you change it every 3k then you don't need a "better filter".

To each his own...

dont remember who posted this but this is a good review: http://www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7/oil_filter_study/

Thanks for the link. I took the time to read it and now know w-h-y t-o-o much about oil filters. Just kidding. I think the author of the article really did his homework and tried to be as subjective as possible. I would like to to see a more current review but what the hey. I'll never look at oil filters the same old way again.

Once again, IMHO trying to save a buck or two on your oil filter is just plain dumb. For the cost of a beer at an upscale bar you could better protect your car. Duh...

Oh you would like to see a more current review would you, eh? It was right in front of you this whole time. The very first link I posted in this thread was a link to a more current review of the EXACT same page updated in 2003, and not 1999 like the link that gets spread around so often. I can post it again if you would like:

http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html

A Tale of Two Responses…

“Chastised from afar” – or – “and the answer is… too many double espressos.”

Firstly, thanks for the reference to the “more timely” oil filter information. Secondly, I sorry I hurt your feelings by not recognizing your earlier contribution to this tread.

My bad.

No offense taken. The pages don't look exactly the same so it's easy to miss. Regardless, I am sorry nobody can really tell you exactly which oil filter to get. I wish it were that easy though. I like the Mobile1 filters, but I've read from two different sources that some people were reporting that the seam where the backplate crimps to the case splits. I don't know if this means that unfiltered oil goes back into the engine or if all the oil leaks out and runs your engine dry. Regardless it only happens at high pressure, and I don't think our engine runs the oil pressure that high. I might try an Amsoil filter to check it out and see if I can't get any good information on them. I am very overprotective of my cars so I don't mind spending the extra money. I only change my oil 3 to 4 times a year so the thought of spending an extra $5 dollars or even *ghasp* $10 dollars for an oil filter is really no problem at all. I expect to get 250K to 300K miles out my cars. Good luck.

Having gotten 300K+ miles from a '76 SAAB 99GL I couldn't agree more.

For the Canadians: FRAM makes the Canadian Tire filters. I've used them for years, BUT, when I installed a dealer filter on my 94 Accord (I've not changed the oil yet in my TSX) I noticed that with same exterior temperature and a cold engine that the oil pressure light went off sooner. What I've heard from some engine guys is that the Fram filters are too restrictive and filter too well. For someone who changes their oil every 4000 kms (with conventional by the way), there's no need to for a restrictive filter. I've got a hook up with some dealer guys and got a decent price on a dozen Honda filters for the 2.4. With regards to the first oil change, I'm going to go back to my traditional roots on this one. I'm going to change the oil at about 5000-6000kms or by January, whichever is first. I'm not going to keep the original oil in there during the dead cold of winter.