Installed Passport 8500 X50 with hardwire kit
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Installed Passport 8500 X50 with hardwire kit
I've read various threads from people who have hardwired the Passport 8500 X50 from Escort into their TSX. I wanted to post my experience thinking that it may be useful to some people. I am also a little stumped about a couple of things so I have posted those questions also.
I had been without a radar detector since my approx 10 year old Uniden just stopped working several months ago. After having several brushes with the ummm.....law....I decided it was time again and purchased the 8500 X50 (blue, of course), with the DirectWire SmartCord. I didn't want the wire hanging down on the dash and expecially didn't want to leave the door open to the "Not An Ashtray".
Went to Autozone and picked up an Mini-Add-a-Circuit (thanks masmole!). Unfortunately it had a round connector and the power lead for the Passport is flat. So I got an adapter, and cut and stripped the wire leading from the Add-a-Circuit, crimped it on, and all was good. Next step was to find a switched circuit in the car's under dash fuse box. I chose fuse #9, a 15A circuit, since it is the front and rear power sockets (the ones that you'd normally plug a radar detector into). The instructions that came with the Add-a-Circuit said to remove the orginal fuse (duh), and then put in a new fuse that they supplied into "Slot B" of the Add-a-Circuit. Then plug the Add-a-Circuit into the place where the original fuse was, and test the circuit for proper operation. When I did this however, the detector came on right away, with the car turned off. Obviously this is not what I wanted, so I disconnected everything and looked in the owner's manual and my Service Manual again. I found fuse #32 (7.5A) which was labelled "ACC". The owner's manual doesn't get descriptive at all, but the Service Manual says:
"Accessory power socket relay, Audio unit, (audio-HVAC display module), Navigation display unit (audio-HVAC display module), Navigation unit, Shift lock solenoid (A/T), Stereo amplifier"
So I figured I'd try this one, removed the 7.5A fuse from socket #32, installed the Add-a-Circuit, installed a 10A fuse in socket B of the Add-a-Circuit, and the original 7.5A fuse in Socket A. This is what the directions say to do. Now the Passport goes on when theh car is switched into its Accessory key setting which is exactly what I want.
My questions, for anyone who cares to take a stab at them are as follows. Keep in mind that I am an electrical dummy.
1) Why, when I connected the Add-a-Circuit to the 15A switched circuit in socket 9, did the power to the Passport not end up switched? To make sure I had the correct circuit, I even disconnected the direct wire setup for a few minutes and connected the standard power cord that comes with the Passport to verify that this was indeed a switched circuit.
2) Does anyone have more of a clue as to what socket #32 does, besides the description above? It seems that there are other sockets to control this same stuff on the TSX (like the stereo, etc).
3) Does anyone know how much Amperage the Passport 8500 actually draws?
Here's some pics. The picture of the fusebox shows the Add-a-Circuit attached to fuse #32:
.
I had been without a radar detector since my approx 10 year old Uniden just stopped working several months ago. After having several brushes with the ummm.....law....I decided it was time again and purchased the 8500 X50 (blue, of course), with the DirectWire SmartCord. I didn't want the wire hanging down on the dash and expecially didn't want to leave the door open to the "Not An Ashtray".
Went to Autozone and picked up an Mini-Add-a-Circuit (thanks masmole!). Unfortunately it had a round connector and the power lead for the Passport is flat. So I got an adapter, and cut and stripped the wire leading from the Add-a-Circuit, crimped it on, and all was good. Next step was to find a switched circuit in the car's under dash fuse box. I chose fuse #9, a 15A circuit, since it is the front and rear power sockets (the ones that you'd normally plug a radar detector into). The instructions that came with the Add-a-Circuit said to remove the orginal fuse (duh), and then put in a new fuse that they supplied into "Slot B" of the Add-a-Circuit. Then plug the Add-a-Circuit into the place where the original fuse was, and test the circuit for proper operation. When I did this however, the detector came on right away, with the car turned off. Obviously this is not what I wanted, so I disconnected everything and looked in the owner's manual and my Service Manual again. I found fuse #32 (7.5A) which was labelled "ACC". The owner's manual doesn't get descriptive at all, but the Service Manual says:
"Accessory power socket relay, Audio unit, (audio-HVAC display module), Navigation display unit (audio-HVAC display module), Navigation unit, Shift lock solenoid (A/T), Stereo amplifier"
So I figured I'd try this one, removed the 7.5A fuse from socket #32, installed the Add-a-Circuit, installed a 10A fuse in socket B of the Add-a-Circuit, and the original 7.5A fuse in Socket A. This is what the directions say to do. Now the Passport goes on when theh car is switched into its Accessory key setting which is exactly what I want.
My questions, for anyone who cares to take a stab at them are as follows. Keep in mind that I am an electrical dummy.
1) Why, when I connected the Add-a-Circuit to the 15A switched circuit in socket 9, did the power to the Passport not end up switched? To make sure I had the correct circuit, I even disconnected the direct wire setup for a few minutes and connected the standard power cord that comes with the Passport to verify that this was indeed a switched circuit.
2) Does anyone have more of a clue as to what socket #32 does, besides the description above? It seems that there are other sockets to control this same stuff on the TSX (like the stereo, etc).
3) Does anyone know how much Amperage the Passport 8500 actually draws?
Here's some pics. The picture of the fusebox shows the Add-a-Circuit attached to fuse #32:
.
#2
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wow...i installed my Passport in a half hour, i just took apart the overhead console (reading lights, sunglass holder) and i tapped into the power of the auto-dimming mirror. I used about 10 inches of cord and mounted it so that all you can see from the drivers seat is just the display under the right side of the mirror, i will put up pics in a bit if people are interested
this whole add a circuit seems complex, but i will probably have to do it when i install my neon
this whole add a circuit seems complex, but i will probably have to do it when i install my neon
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I went with the Add-a-Circuit because I didn't want to tap a wire. They included a 3M tap with the hardwire kit, but using an Add-a-Circuit is cleaner and didn't involve compromising any existing wires. If you don't count the time I spent going to the store to get parts, it only took about 30 minutes to attach the Add-a-Circuit and find the right circuit so I could have switched power.
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ya, thats cool man, i just looked up some stuff about the add-a-circuit because it turns out i will definitely want that when i do interior accent lights
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Hopefully this pic will help you out. This thread describes someone hooking into the fuse box. Looks like they used a different fuse for the ACC power. This fuse only receives power when the ignition is on. If you happen to have a voltmeter, it would help you out a lot.
https://acurazine.com/forums/audio-video-electronics-navigation-22/sirius-sat-radio-install-287187/
https://acurazine.com/forums/audio-video-electronics-navigation-22/sirius-sat-radio-install-287187/
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Yes, you will need a ground wire. Some people have just used the bolt in the fuse box that the picture above points to.
You can also get to the ground in your steering column, at the factory HU/amp, or you can just make your own. There are many different ways to do it.
You can also get to the ground in your steering column, at the factory HU/amp, or you can just make your own. There are many different ways to do it.
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#9
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How did you route the wire from the detector to the fuse box? Was it difficult to hide the wire? I guess I am kinda scared to remove trim pieces, etc... from the inside of my car, for fear I will scratch something.
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i dont know why all you guys are going through the fuse box....if you are mounting it at the top of your windshield just tap into the power going to the auto-dimming rear view mirror. Thats what i did....very simple, just used a running splice onto the wire for the mirror and grounded to one of the screws holding the sunglass holder/light unit to the roof
#11
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Madmanmax3000,
Any info on voiding portions of the warranty by splicing into factory wiring?
Any info on voiding portions of the warranty by splicing into factory wiring?
#12
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Originally Posted by stogie1020
Madmanmax3000,
Any info on voiding portions of the warranty by splicing into factory wiring?
Any info on voiding portions of the warranty by splicing into factory wiring?
#13
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OK, cool with respect to the warranty.
Eeyore, any pics of the routing? How did you hide the wires? Headliner and "A" post? Would it be difficult for a complete novice to do without damaging the interior?
Eeyore, any pics of the routing? How did you hide the wires? Headliner and "A" post? Would it be difficult for a complete novice to do without damaging the interior?
#14
Im curious about how the routing was done as well. I assume you can just 'cram' the cord into the headliner and pillar, but I'm not sure of the thickness since I haven't ordered one yet.
Any pictures or whatnot of the finished product and what it took to conceal the wiring?
Any pictures or whatnot of the finished product and what it took to conceal the wiring?
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