FIrst Oil change
#3
My Garage
Originally Posted by Aloe
change it and go with Mobil 1 full synth
I change mine every 7k with Mobil 1 full synth (and actually just changed mine yesterday )
I change mine every 7k with Mobil 1 full synth (and actually just changed mine yesterday )
Thats too soon, wait till at least 5. Change it somewhere between 5-10, depending on how hard you drive.
#5
Team Owner
Originally Posted by huckleberry
way too early - you'll destroy the engine!
http://www.acura-tsx.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25847
http://www.acura-tsx.com/forums/showthread.php?t=23939
http://www.acura-tsx.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19476
^^ found by searching on "Oil Change".
#7
My Garage
Originally Posted by Aloe
so how exactly will changing the oil to fresh full synthetic "destroy" the engine?
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#9
yea its good to get some age on your oil, but i'd change it on the premiss that i have no idea what possible harmful elements are in my cars system after they assemble the engine, throw in some oil, and put it on the lot. changing the oil now would serve as a way to flush out the your cars system and then switch to full synthetic, then changing the oil ever interval you prefer. just me though so do what ever you want because its your car
#10
Team Owner
Originally Posted by Aloe
what are the moly levels of this "special" oil for new engines?
#11
Originally Posted by Aloe
so how exactly will changing the oil to fresh full synthetic "destroy" the engine?
I was making a deliberate overstatement to underscore the fact that FIRST change @ 3k is way too early and not good for engine.
Originally Posted by Aloe
yea its good to get some age on your oil, but i'd change it on the premiss that i have no idea what possible harmful elements are in my cars system after they assemble the engine, throw in some oil, and put it on the lot. changing the oil now would serve as a way to flush out the your cars system
#12
Originally Posted by jlukja
Post #10 in this thread is the closest I've seen to an answer: http://www.acura-tsx.com/forums/showthread.php?t=23939
"Note that molybdenum and silicon can be both an additive and an indicator of engine wear."
http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/s.../oil-life.html
#13
Originally Posted by huckleberry
who said anything about "synthetic "destroy" the engine" ?
I was making a deliberate overstatement to underscore the fact that FIRST change @ 3k is way too early and not good for engine.
geesh you make it sound like the engine was assembled by a bunch of monkeys in the Amazon.
I was making a deliberate overstatement to underscore the fact that FIRST change @ 3k is way too early and not good for engine.
geesh you make it sound like the engine was assembled by a bunch of monkeys in the Amazon.
#14
Originally Posted by Aloe
re-read your first post ("way too early - you'll destroy the engine!").. you point out that changing the oil too early will destroy the engine. i then posed a question to you asking how i would "destroy" my engine by going with a fresh full synthetic change instead of leaving in the original fill oil. is that too hard to understand?
Exactly. I said NOTHING about syntec or peanut oil whatever - Just the fact: "Too early"
#15
Originally Posted by huckleberry
>> you point out that changing the oil too early will destroy the engine.
Exactly. I said NOTHING about syntec or peanut oil whatever - Just the fact: "Too early"
Exactly. I said NOTHING about syntec or peanut oil whatever - Just the fact: "Too early"
correct you didn't say anything about synthetic oil. i posed the use of synthetic oil because it is of higher quality than a regular 5w-30
#16
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Originally Posted by huckleberry
>> you point out that changing the oil too early will destroy the engine.
Exactly. I said NOTHING about syntec or peanut oil whatever - Just the fact: "Too early"
Exactly. I said NOTHING about syntec or peanut oil whatever - Just the fact: "Too early"
Oh, and I changed mine after the break in period. Pleased to report the engine is still intact after 15K
#17
Suzuka Master
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Originally Posted by joerockt
Maybe you should just stick with sarcasm
Oh, and I changed mine after the break in period. Pleased to report the engine is still intact after 15K
Oh, and I changed mine after the break in period. Pleased to report the engine is still intact after 15K
I changed my oil at 3k miles with Mobil 1 and no complaints about the engine and I'm at 48k miles now.
To respond to the Moly comment from above, the oil has high levels of moly and boron (a stabilize) because of the assembly lube they use. You will find higher levels of moly in Honda fluid, but that doesn't necessarily make it better. This is stated above in the link to the #10 post.
#18
Moderator
OEM oil is supposed to have higher levels of anti-wear additives (MoDTC in this case) to provide extra anti-wear protection up until the first scheduled oil change interval. Follow the MID.
GM actually does the same, but they don't tell the owners. They use Lubrizol assembly lube (about 6 oz) that gets mixed into the engine oil and shows up as added amounts of ZDP to provide additional anti-wear protection...if the factory fill is changed early on the GM models, GM Engine Oil Supplement is supposed to be added to spike the ZDP levels. On an Acura, you should find an oil with a high MoDTC content (i.e. Havoline) or added a pint of Valvoline Synpower Oil Treatment.
GM actually does the same, but they don't tell the owners. They use Lubrizol assembly lube (about 6 oz) that gets mixed into the engine oil and shows up as added amounts of ZDP to provide additional anti-wear protection...if the factory fill is changed early on the GM models, GM Engine Oil Supplement is supposed to be added to spike the ZDP levels. On an Acura, you should find an oil with a high MoDTC content (i.e. Havoline) or added a pint of Valvoline Synpower Oil Treatment.
#19
Driver/Detailer
Over in Australia, our first scheduled oil change is 600 miles. I think it's to prevent the case of excessive oil usage, thus leaving your engine dry and damaging it. I'd stick to mineral oil for the first 10000 miles anyway.
You said your computer is telling you that you have 60% oil left!? There is no oil indicator.
I'd check the oil level and maintain it between the minimum and maximum marks using Havoline as Michael has stated that it has higher levels of MoDTC. Maintain it as close as possible to the factory run in oil, and you should not have problems with your engine in the future. With the K24A2, you must have enough oil. Because when the VTC and VTEC systems are used, some oil is used to shift the cam sprocket and engage the high cam pin, resulting in a lower level in your sump. So remember, ALWAYS have enough oil.
You said your computer is telling you that you have 60% oil left!? There is no oil indicator.
I'd check the oil level and maintain it between the minimum and maximum marks using Havoline as Michael has stated that it has higher levels of MoDTC. Maintain it as close as possible to the factory run in oil, and you should not have problems with your engine in the future. With the K24A2, you must have enough oil. Because when the VTC and VTEC systems are used, some oil is used to shift the cam sprocket and engage the high cam pin, resulting in a lower level in your sump. So remember, ALWAYS have enough oil.
#22
Moderator
The Oil Life Monitor on the Honda/Acuras calculates the correct service interval based upon soak times, oil temps, trip length, engine revolutions, etc...it is NOT simply a mileage counter. It is accurate and should be trusted to calculate the correct service interval. If you are uncertain, verify with oil analysis.
#23
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Originally Posted by Michael Wan
The Oil Life Monitor on the Honda/Acuras calculates the correct service interval based upon soak times, oil temps, trip length, engine revolutions, etc...it is NOT simply a mileage counter. It is accurate and should be trusted to calculate the correct service interval. If you are uncertain, verify with oil analysis.
#25
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Originally Posted by aaronng
06s have them? Nice! In that case, 60% is low. It should be 100% which means the ideal level, isn't it?
No oil is 100% right after you change it and start driving, it degrades over time and this meter reflects it.
Edit: Wait, sounds like your thinking oil "level". This gague dosent tell you this, only oil life...
#26
For what it's worth, our acura dealer keeps sending me reminders to bring in the car for its first (and free) oil change at about 3,750 miles.
"I can neither confirm nor deny the accuracy of this statement."
"I can neither confirm nor deny the accuracy of this statement."
#27
Driver/Detailer
Originally Posted by joerockt
I dont know, it seems pretty linear to me. Percentage drops as mileage increases.
No oil is 100% right after you change it and start driving, it degrades over time and this meter reflects it.
Edit: Wait, sounds like your thinking oil "level". This gague dosent tell you this, only oil life...
No oil is 100% right after you change it and start driving, it degrades over time and this meter reflects it.
Edit: Wait, sounds like your thinking oil "level". This gague dosent tell you this, only oil life...
#28
Burning Brakes
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Yeah, my dealer sent me cards and such to come in for the first change (free!). I waited until somewhat after 5000 mi.
I'll go look for the Havoline, as my car seems to burn oil (from the start, not because of changing!), so I'll need to add some oil eventually. Is it worth looking for another additive? For all I know, the dealer could have added something, so I don't want to overdo it...
Not that it's the same topic, but as long as I'm thinking about additives, is it worth using a gas additive/cleaner? Normally I wouldn't bother on such a new car, but I'm curious if anyone has opinions on that as well.
I'll go look for the Havoline, as my car seems to burn oil (from the start, not because of changing!), so I'll need to add some oil eventually. Is it worth looking for another additive? For all I know, the dealer could have added something, so I don't want to overdo it...
Not that it's the same topic, but as long as I'm thinking about additives, is it worth using a gas additive/cleaner? Normally I wouldn't bother on such a new car, but I'm curious if anyone has opinions on that as well.
#30
Originally Posted by vidgamer
Yeah, my dealer sent me cards and such to come in for the first change (free!). I waited until somewhat after 5000 mi.
I'll go look for the Havoline, as my car seems to burn oil (from the start, not because of changing!), so I'll need to add some oil eventually. Is it worth looking for another additive? For all I know, the dealer could have added something, so I don't want to overdo it...
Not that it's the same topic, but as long as I'm thinking about additives, is it worth using a gas additive/cleaner? Normally I wouldn't bother on such a new car, but I'm curious if anyone has opinions on that as well.
I'll go look for the Havoline, as my car seems to burn oil (from the start, not because of changing!), so I'll need to add some oil eventually. Is it worth looking for another additive? For all I know, the dealer could have added something, so I don't want to overdo it...
Not that it's the same topic, but as long as I'm thinking about additives, is it worth using a gas additive/cleaner? Normally I wouldn't bother on such a new car, but I'm curious if anyone has opinions on that as well.
so cheap...1.89....the cheapest of all the oil haha
#35
Burning Brakes
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Originally Posted by kyotousa
hi how many quarts do i need for 1 oil change?
#37
Some car manufacturers actually say in the owners manual to wait a certain number of miles before switching from conventional oil to synthetic oil. The exceptions are vehicles that come from the factory with Mobil 1; Corvette, Viper, etc.
#38
Originally Posted by jlukja
Its included with the car for a reason. 4-5 depending if you're changing the oil filter.
......since i am changing the filter...i am guessing 5 then
cool
#40
Originally Posted by jpt
It's easier for you to post a question and wait for an answer than it is to open your glovebox?
open glovebox....find the answer....too much reading