fdl

Manual says to change tranny fluid and brake fluid at 3 years. I'm at 3 years but I only have about 32,000 miles. Should I change the brake fluid and tranny fluid? (I have a MT)

dom

Hmmm good question. I'm there too.

But 85k.

Nakamichi

Yes. Fluids degrade over time.

dom

fdl, how much does the dealer want for that?

fdl

I think it was about a hundred bucks for both. I cant remember, because I said no (i wanted to do some more research). Plus he said I didnt need to do it untill 100k?? So I showed him the manual and then hes says, well its up to you.

I did decide to do a type D service, which includes alot of stuff (but not the fluid change) for like $400.

dom

I recall the type D. Alot of checking but not alot of changing parts.

fdl

ya. with my warranty up before the end of the month, I figured I may as well get everything checked out. I also have noticed some very slight vibration during braking, so hopefully I can get a new set of rotors thrown in under warranty as well.

gsrthomas

You do not need to change your tranny fluid if you are MT. If you had an Auto I would of definitely changed it. You can go up to 100k miles on MT fluid with no problem. I switched to a synthetic MT fluid at about 30k.

As for your brake fluid. Check the reservoir and if the fluid is a DARK dirty color then it should be changed. But if its a light greyish color then I would not even bother changing it.

fdl

They are going to machine my front rotors, and they advised that i change my brake pads as well. I dont have to pay any labor but I have to pay for the pads. How the hell can my pads be worn down already???????????????

JTso

iTrader: (2)

I think Honda MTL is about $5 per qt or $10 for GM MTL (you need slightly more than 2) and brake fluid is about $3 for the Honda bottle (2 should be enough). MTL drain and fill is easy, much like engine oil change minus the filter. Brake fluid flush is relatively easy with a bleeder equipment or someone to help pump the pedal.

TSX2345

I had my fluids changed last week. I like to change my fluids once a year. It's not hurting anything, just time consuming. While doing my fluid change I had my SS brake lines and clutch line installed

My car is an 05 with only 16K miles on it.

dom

My original front pads lasted 75k. The rears were changed at 45, I think.

My PWP with 85K still has the original pads on, as far as I can tell. Although their due.

fdl

ok. I started a new thread on this as well. Maybe I am just driving too fast

http://www.acura-tsx.com/forums/showthread.php?p=587440

SoCaliTrojan

Probably due to a combination of your driving style and your warped rotors. That, and the front brakes wear out more quickly since it does most of the braking

dom

From what we see around here its actually the opposite on the TSX. The rears seem to go faster.

But you bring up a good point about the pads. If the rotors are in fact "warped" putting the same old pads on freshly machined rotors will result in the same problem in no time.

curls

I'd assume this is because the rears probably have less meat on them to being with?

JTso

iTrader: (2)

Most rear brake pads have less meat than the front, but the rear seems to go quicker on the TSX.

mickey513

If you are going to change your brake fluid, change it out with DOT 4 synthetic brake fluid:

http://www.valvoline.com/pages/produ...asp?product=51

Going into my car. Plus it was only $6 for a big bottle at my local part store, enough to do the whole brake system.

SodaLuvr

Just pick up a quart of Prestone Synthetic DOT3 fluid from Walmart. $4/qt.

Btw, all DOT3 fluids are synthetic...so the "synthetic" advertising is just "stating the obvious."

I'd run Redline MTL, Amsoil MTF, or SF MTL-P in Canada for the manual transmission lube for better cold weather performance. It isn't a bad idea to change the MT lube at this point due to debris from wear-in.

curls

What's everyones' thoughts on changing the power steering fluid @ 3 years?

Its not too hard of a job at all (DIY, basically), but am I wasting money doing it at 3 yrs / 96,000 km (60000 miles) ??

I'm doing the brake fluid the same day, so its not like I'm making a trip to a friends' house for nothing otherwise.

SodaLuvr

Why not? It's easy...

Turkey baster...extract fluid weekly until you go through 2 quarts of fluid.

aaronng

I did my tranny fluid change myself. I think it's easier than changing the engine oil. All you need is one of those hand pumps that looks like a giant syringe with a hose at the end.

I think the brake fluid that comes with the car is Dot4. At least that is the rating of Honda brake fluid over here.

goddsmack

lol...that's a really interesting way of doing it...but a more time efficient manner is to disconnect the return off the reservior, put the hose in a collection container of some sort, start the car and turn the wheel from as far right as you can go to far left as far as you can go(called lock to lock). Keep doing this until the fluid no more fluid comes out. Stop the car and then connect the hose, add fluid to the upper mark (don't go beyond), start the car and turn again the wheel from lock to lock to bleed the system a couple of times, recheck your level, it should be in between the two marks.

NOTE: Really you should change your P/S fluid at 90K, or if you left the cap off the reservior for a while. Now if you had a Ford, it might be a different story...especially a Windstar Minivan. In any case putting a new rack system is a major pain in the ass, although it is easier if you have a lift.

aaronng

That's relatively painless. I'll do this next time when I hit 60,000.

curls

Accordign to the Helm's manual for our car (and the one for my old 1991 Integra), the proper way to do it is to flush it by:

- Taking off the PS low-pressure return line (@ the resevoir) and aiming it into a suitable container.

- Then w/ front end on jackstands and engine running, turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock. This will force the PS fluid out of the hose and into your container.

- As this is occurring, you need a friend there to keep adding fluid through the resevoir.

- After a few minutes of this, you will see the fluid coming out of the PS return hose is very clear (almost 100% looking like the new stuff). This is when you stop turning the wheel, then re-attach the PS return hose.

- Move the wheel lock-to-lock a few more times to get any air bubbles out of the system, and then top the resevoir off once more.

Done, 100% fluid exchange.



PS: The turkey baster method only works for a majority of the fluid, but isn't 100% like the above (recommended) method.

Vegito

http://www.thefesteringcyforce.com/tsx/tsx-atf.pdf ATF
http://www.thefesteringcyforce.com/tsx/tsx-mtf.pdf MTF
http://www.thefesteringcyforce.com/tsx/tsx-psf.pdf Power Steering Fluid
http://www.thefesteringcyforce.com/tsx/tsx-cooling.pdf Coolant

SodaLuvr

Dude...do you even know how big of a mess that is?

If you did what I said, which is extract old fluid from the reservoir on a weekly basis until you've gone through 2 quarts, you would have accomplished the exact same task.

Also, your method isn't 100% either. When you add new fluid into the system while the old fluid is being pumped out, the two will mix together, to an extent.

curls

Have you tried it this way? I have (on an Integra - same idea). It's REALLY easy to do. No mess at all. Heck I'd wager to say there's less chance of spilling the PS fluid onto your car w/ this method, than the turkey baster method.

The fluids don't really mix because they are continually getting sucked into the high pressure line, and the clean fluid isn't gonna just "pass" the dirty stuff.

curls

Actually I should edit my post (but can't, 15 minute rule).

Don't add the new fluid until the old stuff is out of the system (as per PDF... sorry, I forgot the exact procedure even though I read it like 2 nights ago in my service manual).

Hence, no fluid mixing, nada.

goddsmack

As long as you plug the reservoir connection, it's not a mess at all and is much more efficient. The wait a week and put in new fluid to me is not being efficient at all. You basically have diluted the old fluid and any contamination (if any) into the entire new fresh fluid batch put in.

I forgot to mention propping up the car too, but yeah you need to do that so you don't have a too forceful stream of fluid coming out the return line.

Obviously this might turn into a battle of whose's right, but I've done it to where no more fluid comes out, stop the car, and then you add new fluid. No issues.

I still say 90K is a better mileage for the p/s fluid for Hondas. Ask any mechanic or sometimes even the dealership. Some dealerships may even go as far as to say it's not serviceable at all. It doesn't go bad or loose it's properties as fast as tranny or engine oil and can have a long life if the system remains closed. Sure it's good preventive maintenance to do it early, but in my opinion, Honda's p/s will last up to 90K. My sister's 92 accord might still be on the original p/s fluid and it's got about 190K miles on it. Even once and a while, I hear a noise on cold mornings, but i think it just has to do with another pulley going bad, which I think is the alternator. Anyway for my sister's, I'm not sure if I changed it at 90K or not, but I did change my old 95 accord around that time, just because it was purchased used and I didn't know the previous owner's car habits. That and because it was a classroom assignment...

handydandy

i wanted to get my 6sp tranny changed, but i dont want it done at the dealer b/c of the price.
do you guys think its alright to get it done at a local shop (like midas, etc)?
and what kind of fluid should i use? and what mileage should i use synthetic tranny fluid?

Jeff_B

It's a good idea to change the manual transmission fluid at 30-40k miles. Remember, it's basically just 10w30 oil with additives, and should be changed just like motor oil (though at much larger intervals). Honda/Acura MTF should definitely be good enough... unless you are tracking the car or your gears are grinding, you don't need anything else.

As for brake fluid, just look in the reservoir like another poster suggested. If it looks clean and relatively light, you shouldn't need to change it. If it's dark and/or dirty, it'd be a good idea. Also, if your brakes feel spongy or not as firm as they used to, it's a good idea to change the fluid. Valvoline Dot3/4 Synthetic works very well and is cheap at Pep Boys and Autozone.

aaronng

Use Honda/Acura MTF-II.

DuckDodgers

Dude...I change my MT fluid at 30,000 regardless. As for brake fluid, at least every three years, I go for every two. The simple fact is that additive packages degrade with time, heat, etc...I like the insurance of having fresh fluids, and while I'm changing them, I can poke around under the rest of the vehicle. Helps catch stuff like cracks in boots...rubbing lines...etc...

mickey513

Honda MTF is not motor oil. Try putting 5w-30 or 10w-30 in your manual tranny case and you will hear the gears grind when shifting. I tried it once with both wt. oil on a Integra I use to own.....shifted like the car was about to far apart.

Bought 3 qts of Honda MTF and problem solved.

curls

Change brake fluid every 3 years or sooner. Why? Because brake fluid is hygroscopic (absorbs water). It will absorb water vapour from the air, even through the tiniest of gaps between the cap and resevoir. What this water does when in the brake fluid is it lowers the boiling point, and also makes the pedal "spongier" and less "grabby" (for lack of a better word!).

It's dirt cheap, and easy to do. Do it annually if you want... its cheap insurance.