Alternator Output, Battery Upgrade but Under-charging ?

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Old 04-16-2007, 04:33 PM
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Alternator Output, Battery Upgrade but Under-charging ?

First the question is: Does anyone know for sure the voltage output of the TSX alternator ?

I'm looking to upgrade to YellowTop D35.
Optima specs

People here that have the highend batteries,
I wonder if you guys have considered this,
I'm concerned about *under-charging* the battery.

Here is the spec of the D35 on charging:


TSX service manual (Page 2-18) says "Alternator : 12V-90A"

So if true, is this going to be a case of under-charge ?
Is there a way to increase alternator output ?

thanks

Here is a good read on this topic
Old 04-16-2007, 04:57 PM
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I've got the Optima RedTop, but out alternator has the voltage to keep the battery up. If you want a higher output, I know companies can take the alternator and beef it up. Used to have a company in town that did it.
Old 04-16-2007, 05:13 PM
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There is a voltage regulator inside the alternator to regulate the voltage to the battery and other electrical accessories. The stock TSX alternator will output ~14v at a certain rpm to keep the battery charged.
Old 04-16-2007, 05:49 PM
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yeah this is a problem I have noticed with the honda yellow top I have before it was discontinued. If I the battery connected and the car sit for two weeks I need to jump the car to start it every time. If I disconnect the battery it will hold the charge for about a month but not much longer. With my old stock battery before it died I could let it sit for 3 weeks plugged in and not have to jump it to start the car. However I would rather have that inconvenience with the added benefit of running my audio system.
Old 04-16-2007, 05:50 PM
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shouldnt this be in parts section though.
Old 04-17-2007, 11:24 AM
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Originally Posted by CCColtsicehockey
yeah this is a problem I have noticed with the honda yellow top I have before it was discontinued. If I the battery connected and the car sit for two weeks I need to jump the car to start it every time. If I disconnect the battery it will hold the charge for about a month but not much longer. With my old stock battery before it died I could let it sit for 3 weeks plugged in and not have to jump it to start the car. However I would rather have that inconvenience with the added benefit of running my audio system.
If you had the yellowtop D51R, then that was the design defect that caused it to be discontinued.
Old 04-17-2007, 12:32 PM
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Originally Posted by aaronng
If you had the yellowtop D51R, then that was the design defect that caused it to be discontinued.
Old 04-17-2007, 12:36 PM
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If you put a meter on the electrical system and watch the voltage, youll see it fluxuate. I thought the car was being all screwy when i first started using it. The passport X50 has an option to view voltage. So yes, itll run at say 12.4ish for a while then bump up to 14.4 once at speed. It also depends if your stopping and going for a while aswell.

You notice all kinds of funky things when u turn some meters on.
Old 04-17-2007, 02:10 PM
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The general "standard" max output voltage for an alternator is about 14.4V. You would be hard pressed to find one much higher than that. You need a volt or two difference between battery and alternator otherwise the battery would take forever to charge or not charge at all (Recall that a fully charged 12V battery will read about 12.5V) Different power is generated at different RPM. Maximum current is usually produced at maximum RPM, though this can be tweaked so there is a higher output at idle or wherever in the band. I'm not sure where our TSX alternator makes maximum output power (the point at which they got the 90A rating).

You will be just fine with the stock alternator as far as charging that battery...assuming the load you are putting on it isn't exceeding the alternator's output. The alternator MUST put out more than 12.5V or it wouldn't charge any of our batteries. It is most likely labeled as a 12V alternator because that is the type of battery it is designed to charge and the type of electrical system it must be compatible with. That does not mean that it actually outputs 12V.
Old 04-17-2007, 02:40 PM
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you can change your ground wires to a 1/0 gauge wires. <--- cheapest way to upgrade electrical system !
Old 04-17-2007, 05:14 PM
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Originally Posted by aaronng
If you had the yellowtop D51R, then that was the design defect that caused it to be discontinued.
well they wont give me a new one cause it was after one year of owning it that they announced that and I dont feel like paying for a new one and the regular ones are to big.
Old 04-22-2007, 01:37 PM
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Originally Posted by CCColtsicehockey
well they wont give me a new one cause it was after one year of owning it that they announced that and I dont feel like paying for a new one and the regular ones are to big.
It's pro-rated over the warranty period if you want them to refund you. You could go for the redtop 35. That fits. The redtop 34 also fits, but is larger than the 35.
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