Not Starting - Timing Belt?
Not Starting - Timing Belt?
I have a 1996 TL 2.5. My daughter backed it out of the driveway, when I went to start it, it turned over but would not fire. I changed the cap & rotor (because it was due anyway). I am getting good spark from the plug wires, and removed the air induction tube so I could spray starter fluid past the butterfly - still will not fire. My assumption is that if I have spark & fuel (staring fluid) the motor should run at least a few seconds...Am I missing something? My only conclusion is that the timing belt slipped (the distributer rotor turns when I crank the engine) or is partially stripped, but I wanted to see if anyone out there can think of something else to try before I replace the belt etc.
Thanks for any ideas...
Thanks for any ideas...
so basically the car is not starting?? meaning no crank.. if so check your battery cables, battery, if the lights comes on in your interior then then the battery fine.. if none of them you might need new starter contacts for the starter motor possibly cost $500 or lower to replace.
The engine is turning over fine - just will not start.
I have good spark to plugs
sprayed starting fluid in intake
Cam timing appears fine (rotor is pointing @ #1 cylinder @ TDC)
Would any of the sensors (TDC etc.) cause the engine not to start (even if I am getting spark) - Will the DTC codes identify bad sensors?
Thanks again for any help - I am going to get a code reader tomorrow...
I have good spark to plugs
sprayed starting fluid in intake
Cam timing appears fine (rotor is pointing @ #1 cylinder @ TDC)
Would any of the sensors (TDC etc.) cause the engine not to start (even if I am getting spark) - Will the DTC codes identify bad sensors?
Thanks again for any help - I am going to get a code reader tomorrow...
Does it get a partial start with the starting fluid? I normally would say injectors or pump... but it's weird since you're spraying starting fluid. Check the fuel filter. I've heard some horror stories about clogged ones, and maybe the starting fluid just isn't enough to get the motor going.
~Cheers~
P.S. Worst case I can think of is a siezed bearing which can lead to rod-knock / dead motor.
~Cheers~
P.S. Worst case I can think of is a siezed bearing which can lead to rod-knock / dead motor.
I'm stumped - reading through the service manual for ideas...
I'm getting strong spark at appropriate time
I have good fuel pressure
Will not start even after spraying starting fluid in intake
No DTC codes are showing I used OBD II to read.
I'm trying to determine if a bad sensor etc. would causethe engine to not fire.
Any ideas?
I'm getting strong spark at appropriate time
I have good fuel pressure
Will not start even after spraying starting fluid in intake
No DTC codes are showing I used OBD II to read.
I'm trying to determine if a bad sensor etc. would causethe engine to not fire.
Any ideas?
Originally Posted by dpfelten
I'm stumped - reading through the service manual for ideas...
I'm getting strong spark at appropriate time
I have good fuel pressure
Will not start even after spraying starting fluid in intake
No DTC codes are showing I used OBD II to read.
I'm trying to determine if a bad sensor etc. would causethe engine to not fire.
Any ideas?
I'm getting strong spark at appropriate time
I have good fuel pressure
Will not start even after spraying starting fluid in intake
No DTC codes are showing I used OBD II to read.
I'm trying to determine if a bad sensor etc. would causethe engine to not fire.
Any ideas?
Fuel
Compression
Spark
-Sound like you need to confirm the second.
BUT - I would take the covers off the cams to make sure that the timing belt is not broken as a safety measure...
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Remove upper timing belt cover and check that camshaft is turning.
I have seen spark that looked OK, but would not start the car. Try using a timing light to check timing and see if timing light flashes. If not spark is too weak to fire engine. This is also a test of timing belt since tiiming will be checked correctly only if camshaft and distributor are turning and T'belt intact.
Compression loss doesn't occur abruptly, so I think you can rulle that out.
good luck
I have seen spark that looked OK, but would not start the car. Try using a timing light to check timing and see if timing light flashes. If not spark is too weak to fire engine. This is also a test of timing belt since tiiming will be checked correctly only if camshaft and distributor are turning and T'belt intact.
Compression loss doesn't occur abruptly, so I think you can rulle that out.
good luck
Just getting back to work on this some more - Timing light works. I have replaced timing belt - still not starting so I pullled the head to make sure valves were OK - everything looks fine. I'm going to put it back together this weekend, I think the only explanation is fuel pressure, eventhough I checked fuel flow, and it was pumping fine - I just haven't actually tested the PSI. Or the injectors. Is there a way to test injectors? One thing I noticed was the fuel pressure regulator located on the intake, and the little adjustment screw was loose, I can't find anything in the manual that addresses this, I'm wondering if this is not working, and all the fuel is being re-directed to the tank because the regulator is malfunctioning - thanks for any advise...
Fuel pressure is checked at the banjo bolt on the fuel filter. A special adapter is requrired to attach a fuel pressure gauge. Acura manual doesn't say anything about adjusting fuel pressure regulator. Fuel pressure should be 43-50 psi. It could be w/ the loose screw in the FPR, the fuel pressure is too low to start the car. Make sure injectors are firing w/ a noid light.
Have you tried starting w/ starter fluid injected into the throttle body again? If this doesn't work, it still suggests a weak spark issue, despite successful timing light test.
good luck
Have you tried starting w/ starter fluid injected into the throttle body again? If this doesn't work, it still suggests a weak spark issue, despite successful timing light test.
good luck
Originally Posted by dpfelten
Just getting back to work on this some more - Timing light works. I have replaced timing belt - still not starting so I pullled the head to make sure valves were OK - everything looks fine. I'm going to put it back together this weekend, I think the only explanation is fuel pressure, eventhough I checked fuel flow, and it was pumping fine - I just haven't actually tested the PSI. Or the injectors. Is there a way to test injectors? One thing I noticed was the fuel pressure regulator located on the intake, and the little adjustment screw was loose, I can't find anything in the manual that addresses this, I'm wondering if this is not working, and all the fuel is being re-directed to the tank because the regulator is malfunctioning - thanks for any advise...
That is truly amazing that someone would do the above as part of diagnostics.
Remember, there are three things ANY engine needs before it will start/run:
Air/Fuel mixture
Compression
Spark
Without the above, it will not run.
Do not remove heads to see if you THINK compression is good - use a compression tester... DOH!
You may have already spent enough in parts to simply pay for this thing to be fixed by now
Originally Posted by dpfelten
Just getting back to work on this some more - Timing light works. I have replaced timing belt - still not starting so I pullled the head to make sure valves were OK - everything looks fine. I'm going to put it back together this weekend, I think the only explanation is fuel pressure, eventhough I checked fuel flow, and it was pumping fine - I just haven't actually tested the PSI. Or the injectors. Is there a way to test injectors? One thing I noticed was the fuel pressure regulator located on the intake, and the little adjustment screw was loose, I can't find anything in the manual that addresses this, I'm wondering if this is not working, and all the fuel is being re-directed to the tank because the regulator is malfunctioning - thanks for any advise...
Any progress to report.
good luck
Originally Posted by TexasHonda
I assumed you meant valve cover and not cylinder head. Tell me you didn't pull the head!
Any progress to report.
good luck
Any progress to report.
good luck
Compression test should be done before doing either of the above, regardless.
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asahrts
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Sep 4, 2015 05:55 PM



