no heat issues
no heat issues
I have a 1996 3.2 TL. I have not had it long. When I first got it, it was overheating, and only blew heat sometimes. I replaced the thermostat, and that fixed the overheating. Now the temp is normal, but it will only blow heat sometimes. today I changed drained and refilled the antifreeze with fresh fluid, but I am not confident that I am bleeding the system correctly. It only blows heat sometimes, and only when I am traveling faster than 40 mph. Even when traveling 40 mph or faster, it doesn't always blow hot air. How do I properly bleed the cooling system?
Here you go, I posted how to do it in this thread.
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...=776173&page=2
~Cheers~
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...=776173&page=2
~Cheers~
Ok. Thanks for the instructions. They were the best ones yet, and that was the closest I've come to fixing this problem. I realized that both fan blades run on the radiator from the second I start the car. The car wont even get up to temperature without driving it. I stood out there for about a half hour, and there still wasn't antifreeze spitting out of the bleeder valve, and the car still wasn't up to temperature. I closed the valve and drove around the block. When I got back, the car was just under halfway on the temp gauge, I then cracked the bleeder and antifreeze came rushing out. Is it normal for both fans to be running like that? How long should that bleeding procedure normally take? Also my check engine light says I need an o2 sensor, and an egr valve, I haven't been able to fix those yet, and didn't think they would have anything to do with the no heat issue. Any suggestions could help. Thank you.
Yeah, its about 30 degrees outside, and both fans on the radiator come on the second I start my car, and they don't shut off until I shut the car off. It doesnt matter if the heat/ac is on or off. I'm guessing a fan switch, but I cant seem to find it.
do u notice after a good drive a gurgling sound from the reservoir? after u bleed it..it should b good but if it continues to do this u more than likely have a seeping head gasket. see over the next few days if air continues to be introduced into the system.
I've tried it with the heat on high, heat off, a/c on high, a/c off, regardless of this, both of those fans should not come on the very second i start the engine. Especially when it 30 degrees outside! It should start up and run for a few minutes, then once the radiator warms up, the fan(s) should kick on. Right? That would lead me to believe it is a fan control switch or maybe a temp control sensor? I just cant find the fan switch. Even if I could bypass the fans, just to get the cooling system purged properly.....Im going to go try to find the fan switch again.
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I have not fixed mine yet. I haven't had much time to work on it though. The most common solution for this type of problem seems to be, to bleed the cooling system. Scroll up, and click on the link that "Go90go" posted, as long as you have a 3.2 TL. I'm pretty sure the 2.5 TL's have two bleeders. The owners manual shows you where the bleeders are located.
Check heater hoses when car is fully warmed. Are they cold? If yes, then no flow through them. Either heater core flow control valve is not opening or core is blocked.
There is a vacuum-actuated heater core flow control valve on the firewall. Vacuum is switched through a solenoid valve to cut valve on/off. Check that vacuum is available or not to the flow control valve. If not, the solenoid may be defective (replace). If yes, the heater core flow control valve may be defective. Try manually exercising the valve and see if it loosens up and begins to work.
Disconnect the thermoswitch electrical connector at the lower side of radiator on pax side. W/ this disconnected the radiator cooling fans should not come on. This would confirm the thermoswitch has failed closed. Replace thermoswitch
good luck
There is a vacuum-actuated heater core flow control valve on the firewall. Vacuum is switched through a solenoid valve to cut valve on/off. Check that vacuum is available or not to the flow control valve. If not, the solenoid may be defective (replace). If yes, the heater core flow control valve may be defective. Try manually exercising the valve and see if it loosens up and begins to work.
Disconnect the thermoswitch electrical connector at the lower side of radiator on pax side. W/ this disconnected the radiator cooling fans should not come on. This would confirm the thermoswitch has failed closed. Replace thermoswitch
good luck
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