97 Acura 2.5 TL...

On Monday morning i tried to start my car. It took about 8 to 10 tries for it to start. When i turned the key it always turns over but doesn't start. It the same sound as when you are low on gas. I figured that was the issue and filled up the tank and it worked great for the rest of that day.

The next day it started very first try, so i figured that was it.

On Wednesday morning the same thing as monday. Tried to start it about 12 times. It was turning but just not catching. On the 11 time it started right away. The rest of the day it turned on fine 5 other times.

I stopped into my local garage and he put a voltage meter on it and it said battery was bad. So I went to Canadian tire which is where i bought the battery 5 years ago. I had to remove it from my car, bring it in and they put it on the machine and the battery tested good. I put it back in the car and it started right away the rest of the day.

Thursday & Friday it started very first time, so i figured it was that the connectors for the baterry that could of been loose or something on the poles that i cleaned the day before.

Saturday morning I tried to start it over 14 times and it would turn but just not catch. So the car wouldn't start. Then when i got home later in the afternoon it started on the very first time.

At this point i bought it into the Acura dealer on Monday morning. They said without hearing what's going on we can't tell you what it is. So i left it there and it started everytime. They told me to leave it with them overnight and they would try it the next day. They tried it the next day and it started right away. I haven't received a call from them yet.

I'm just looking to see if anyone has any idea what would be causing this and what i could try to look at. Thanks for all the help in advance

 

It's most likely the main relay. Over time, the solder joints crack and the signal to turn on the fuel pump doesn't go through. Next time, try tuning the key to II with no music/fan going and listen for the pump whine. It won't be there on I. The pump is in the trunk, but you can hear it from the back seat. If you can't hear a difference between I and II after the beeps stop, then most likely that's one of those times you can't start your car.

Cranking without turning over means no fuel, a tick or a fast series of ticks means bad battery connection.

~Cheers~

 

I got a call from the Dealer and when they tried to start it this morning it didn't start. I guess it was sparking all over. I was told it was the distributor cap an something else. Thanks for the quick reply

 

had the same problem about a month ago, got so bad that the car would shut down on me while driving, turned out there was a crack in my distributor cap, changed the cap and rotor, and that was it. good luck

 

This may sound elementary, but I had problems on and off with my car starting a while back. It would start sometimes without a problem and sometimes it would take a few times to get started. It did not show any other signs of problems for me. I had a feeling it was starving for fuel and I replaced my fuel filter and havent had a problem since. When I took out the fuel filter, I blew through one end and it was plugged so it was definitely the problem. Just a suggestion, not to mention its a cheap thing to replace but often overlooked!

 

I don't know if my problem is the same as the one described. My car often refuses to do anything the first time I start it in the morning. I get nothing, no click or starter noise at all. Sometimes I try it a couple times and it starts right up and continues to start all day. I changed the electrical ignition switch, but that wasn't the problem. I've been thinking about changing the ignition lock, but don't think that's the problem since the key turns freely. I recently had the free emission related work done by the dealer and they replaced the distributor parts and all the other related parts. I originally thought the problem was with my keys and the Acura parts guy couldn't believe my old keys were for my car after cutting me new ones using the VIN. The possible solution of something loose in the main relay sounds like a possibility, but I haven't looked into where it is yet. I did find the starter cut relay and the connector to it seems tight. I've also wondered if there's a loose connection to the starter, but haven't looked for that yet either. The temp in my garage in the morning isn't cold and it was happening in summertime anyway.

 

^ & ^^ Bang on the column opposite the key when it doesn't start. If it starts after a couple hits, then it's the electrical side of your keyswitch.

~Cheers~

 

I'll give it a try, but I did replace the electrical part of the keyswitch recently.

 

^ Welcome to Acurazine.

 

I've been having this same exact problem some days it will
start other days it won't. I think with mine it is probably something in the ignition because the key can be removed while the car is running. I'm still not sure!

 

I'd get a new key cut at the dealers from the VIN first. Yesterday, I gave my lock a shot of WD40 and it started, but it often starts right up for days before it gives the scare. My wife gets a little afraid to drive it and get stuck, but luckily, it usually doesn't do it once it has been started. I wonder why that is? When it first started, I replaced the battery then replaced the new one. That seemed to help for a very short time. The battery voltage and alternator voltage are acceptable so I doubt the bttery or alt have anything to do with it.

 

For starter to engage the battery must be connected securely to the starter and the starter solenoid must close (click) to engage starter motor and drive gear. If you hear absolute silence, then either battery, keyswitch, wiring, or faulty solenoid (perhaps intermittent coil).

Suggest first checking battery connections, positive and negative for corrosion and security. Both must be clean and tight for enough battery amps to drive the starter. Next check for a power signal to the solenoid. When keyswitch is turned 12v should be transmitted to the solenoid (small wire) to cause solenoid to "throw". If you have the 12v signal the keyswitch is fine, and solenoid is defective. If you don't have 12v, the keyswitch is likely bad. Small chance of defective wiring between starter switch and solenoid.

good luck

good luck

 

I'm putting my ABS problem on hold for now and the intermittent starting problem is starting to bug me (and my wife who drives the car most). I'm pretty certain that I get power to the starter solenoid although I haven't checked it yet. My wife is telling me to go ahead and replace the starter, but it seems to work fine when it gets around to working. It does sound like an intermittent solenoid. Can I get at the solenoid to see if power is getting to it and if necessary, can I fix or replace it without tearing too much off like the exhaust pipe?
I'll try to find it in my service manual, but thought I'd ask first.
Once the car is started and warms up, the problem usually goes away for that day.

 

See the starter sticky about 3.2TL starter replacement. Not easy but not horrible is way I would describe it. The 2.5TL is not much better (under intake manifold!).

You can use your manual to trace the starter solenoid drive wire and splice into it w/ a folding splice connector to check for 12V when keyswitch is turned to Start. If it's missing the 12V start signal, then a new ignition switch assy is needed.

good luck

 

It's supposed to be nice out today, so I'll try to test the wire. I recently replaced the electrical part of the ignition switch but it didn't cure the problem. I was thinking about replacing the key part, but it doesn't seem to be that. I guess if I have power to the solenoid that'll rule that out. It would probably be slick to wire a bulb into the solenoid power temporarily, but maybe too much trouble.

 

I got the car off the ground to look at the starter, and I don't think I can work on it. The left drive shaft is right in the way and the wiring seems to be on top of the starter. The manual says to remove the shaft and some other stuff just to do the solenoid testing. Two jobs in-a-row that have stumped me.

 

I've been spraying my ignition key lock with WD-40 and it seems to work a lot better. Someone recommended that on an earlier thread? I wonder why that would work? Could the tumblers not engage something right that would lockout the signal to the starter? I was thinking about replacing the lock but they wanted $207 for one. It seems like when you put the new lock in, it somehow adapts its self to whatever key you have in it at the time. I think used locks come with a different key that would be a PIA