Hi! All: My 1997 3.2 TL has an annoying problem. There is a tiny leak in the air-conditioner system. I had the car inspected but they couldn't find the leak. Every spring I have to have the feron refilled, it would last the entire summer, but then the next year the air-conditioner would blow warm air and I have to have it refilled again.

Some quetions if you could help?
1 I assume my car uses R134a? Is this correct?
2 Is it possible to refill by myself? I found this prodct on line: http://www.id-usa.com/product.asp?CID=27&PID=45. Is it a easy job?
3 How much R134a should I buy? Considering the air-conditioner system is empty by the end of winter. I was told I should only top to about 85%, and that's about 2 cans of R-134a(though I forgot to ask the capacity of the can)?
4 I read some article on line referring to the importance of getting air out of the system when re-fill. Does anyone have any suggestions/tips how to do it properly?

Thanks!

 

all i know is that you can buy the stuff at autozones or auto shops and its used to refill the system.. wait for others to clarify the other ?'s

 

We use R134a, not R12. Any Kragen will have a refill kit with a built in pressure gauge to tell you when to stop. Price ranges from $15-$25.

~Cheers~

 

You need to see some good mechanic. Actually all air should be out of system before you refill(air=moisture. moisture=corrosion) otherwise you'll end up changing everything from compressor to all lines, AC condensor and something I forgot the name ,its inside ur dash.

Need a vaccum sucktion machineto suck all the vaccum out of lines.
You need some pag oil with freon.
DON'T use freon that comes with any kind of stop leak and crap, otherwise no mechanic will work on ur car. I can't explain everything.


So after all you need to see a good mechanic, find the leak and then refill.

 

OH and its freon not feron.

 

Actually, it's not freon either. Freon is trade name for R12. SUVA is Dow trade name for R134a, which is what you need, but hardly anyone uses that term, mostly R134a is used.

I would suggest having a leak test performed by a good AC shop to determine where you refrigerant is escaping. Some prime candidates are compressor shaft seal, any of several tubing connection orings, condensor defect (rock impact), hose end crimp leak, or expansion valve orings (bad news requiring evaporator removal).

Leaks can often be located by simply looking for oil/dirt accumulation. As R134a leaks, it carries lubricant which attracts dust/dirt. For instance, a large ring of dirt around the compressor clutch rotation plane indicates a compressor shaft seal leak. As oil leaks out it is thrown outwards by centrifugal force and accumulates to attract dirt. Connection leaks will have similar dirt accumulation.

Once you know where leak is you can decide whether to repair or keep charging. As system leaks down, you are gradually losing lubricant w/ the lost R134a, so some lubricant should be added whether you decide to repair or not.

Recharging w/ only a low side gauge is not recommended. You can buy an inexpensive set of R134a manifold gauges from Harbor Freight, et al for about $50. I still have and use my original Interdynamics manifold gauge set. However, you need to do some reading to learn how to use them. I bought a Haynes book called Automotive Heating and Air Conditioning some 25 years ago, that I still consult. AC repair has been some of the most rewarding DIY work I've done over the years, and it's not hard work, but does require an investment in reading time to understand the fundamentals. A good website for AC help is autoacforum.com. If you read at this site for a while, you'll understand why charging w/ a Interdynamics "Walmart special" is not the right thing to do.

good luck