doors keep locking
#2
This is a common problem on mid 90's hondas and acuras. The locking accumulator unit goes bad and causes the doors to try to relock themselves every 2 seconds or so when you try to lock to the doors.
I had a friend with this problem, and I searched the net for a while before I came across a solution. Apparently, the accumulator has a bad ground and thats what causes it to do this. To fix this:
1. Take off the door panel.
2. Peel back the plastic white sheeting on the metal. This plastic stuff blocks out moisture, so make sure you put it back on after your done.
3. Locate a blue & white (blue, with white stripe) wire coming out of the door lock area. The wire should be mixed in with a harness.
4. Ground the wire. What I did was unbolt a random bolt on the door panel that was near the wire, sand the area around the bolt to bare metal so that I would get a good ground, and then reattatch the bolt with the wire held underneath. Basically this results in the bolt pushin down on the wire, which is contacting with the bare metal on the door panel. This should give you a good ground.
5. Put everything back together.
DISCLAIMER: Try this at you own risk. I'm not responsible for any damage or injury incurred by following these instructions!
Would you believe it, this fix actually worked! So instead of taking the car to the dealer and getting raped on a new part and labor, we took 10 minutes tops and sorted out the problem. I hope this solution works for you too - please let us know if it does. Good luck.
I had a friend with this problem, and I searched the net for a while before I came across a solution. Apparently, the accumulator has a bad ground and thats what causes it to do this. To fix this:
1. Take off the door panel.
2. Peel back the plastic white sheeting on the metal. This plastic stuff blocks out moisture, so make sure you put it back on after your done.
3. Locate a blue & white (blue, with white stripe) wire coming out of the door lock area. The wire should be mixed in with a harness.
4. Ground the wire. What I did was unbolt a random bolt on the door panel that was near the wire, sand the area around the bolt to bare metal so that I would get a good ground, and then reattatch the bolt with the wire held underneath. Basically this results in the bolt pushin down on the wire, which is contacting with the bare metal on the door panel. This should give you a good ground.
5. Put everything back together.
DISCLAIMER: Try this at you own risk. I'm not responsible for any damage or injury incurred by following these instructions!
Would you believe it, this fix actually worked! So instead of taking the car to the dealer and getting raped on a new part and labor, we took 10 minutes tops and sorted out the problem. I hope this solution works for you too - please let us know if it does. Good luck.
#3
Thanks for the write up. Will check it out. Mine has been doing it for a while, intermittently. Sometimes in warm weather last summer. Been looking for a good resolution, before scrambling around.
Would have been a higher priority if it was an intermittent unlock, instead of locking.
Would have been a higher priority if it was an intermittent unlock, instead of locking.
#4
Whoa, wait a minute. Just read what was printed.
You should not terminate the wire the way you did. You need to put a proper sized lug on the wire to properly terminate it for both mechanical and electrical termination. The way you did, it is likely to vibrate and eventually all the copper strands will break.
You should not terminate the wire the way you did. You need to put a proper sized lug on the wire to properly terminate it for both mechanical and electrical termination. The way you did, it is likely to vibrate and eventually all the copper strands will break.
#5
Originally Posted by racerock
Whoa, wait a minute. Just read what was printed.
You should not terminate the wire the way you did. You need to put a proper sized lug on the wire to properly terminate it for both mechanical and electrical termination. The way you did, it is likely to vibrate and eventually all the copper strands will break.
You should not terminate the wire the way you did. You need to put a proper sized lug on the wire to properly terminate it for both mechanical and electrical termination. The way you did, it is likely to vibrate and eventually all the copper strands will break.
Your call on whether u want to try this, hence the disclaimer. Worked for me on a 96 accord, so just trying to help others out who don't want to have to pay a gazillion dollars to their Honda/Acura dealer in order to have the accumulator changed out.
#6
Originally Posted by vishnus11
I'm not sure how the wire would vibrate if it was secured/clampled under a tightened bolt.
Your call on whether u want to try this, hence the disclaimer. Worked for me on a 96 accord, so just trying to help others out who don't want to have to pay a gazillion dollars to their Honda/Acura dealer in order to have the accumulator changed out.
Your call on whether u want to try this, hence the disclaimer. Worked for me on a 96 accord, so just trying to help others out who don't want to have to pay a gazillion dollars to their Honda/Acura dealer in order to have the accumulator changed out.
BTW, this is electronics 101.
#7
Originally Posted by racerock
It is not the portion of the wire under the bolt that vibrates. It is the portion from the harness that flexes/vibrates. Over time, the copper strands will start breaking off. eventually the whole thing goes, rendering the portion under the bolt useless.
BTW, this is electronics 101.
BTW, this is electronics 101.
And no need to be snooty about about "electronics 101" - share the information, but don't be a snob about it. Didn't see u posting a solution to the problem...
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#8
Originally Posted by vishnus11
And no need to be snooty about about "electronics 101" - share the information, but don't be a snob about it. Didn't see u posting a solution to the problem...
I did put a solution to the problem above. That, and it is best to crimp and solder the connection.
#9
Okay, I have a kind of similar problem for a while now. I keep bringing it up, but who knows maybe someone will know.
When I use my keyless entry, my lock jams and the horn starts beeping obnoxiously until i close the door and turn the key. Does anyone know the wire leading the signal of the jam to the horn?
I want to cut it so bad, but I can't just cut random wires and expect it to work.
Thanks!
When I use my keyless entry, my lock jams and the horn starts beeping obnoxiously until i close the door and turn the key. Does anyone know the wire leading the signal of the jam to the horn?
I want to cut it so bad, but I can't just cut random wires and expect it to work.
Thanks!
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