sup guys. Just got back after having been on vacation for 6 weeks only to find that the TLs brakes felt weird. When at a stoplight, the pedal gradually sinks further and further to the floor. If I park the car on my driveway and support it with the brakes, it will eventually begin to roll down after a minute or so, and i have to pump the brake again for it to stop.

My instincts tell me its the master cylinder. Can anyone confirm this. What part of the master cylinder assembly am I looking to get in order to fix the problem. Thanks.

 

Yup. That's the master cylinder. I had the exact same problem. When I come to a stop at a stop light, the braking was good until the car is completely stopped. After that, the pedal sank to the floor gradually. I took it to the shop and they replaced the master cylinder and repainted the brake booster because they said there was some corrosion from the brake fluid. I hope this helps.

 

you'll probably want to replace the whole master cylinder assembly...

 

yes master cylinder, ive had it before and its almost scary at times. most IMPORTANT do NOT let it go. get it fixed as soon as u can.

 

In the meanwhile, when you're at a stop light, put the tranny to "N" so the engine won't pull your car forward. That way, the brakes will have some catch with the discs.

 

buy a new one. get one online....for like $115. the kits to rebuild them (if there are any) are usually uber expensive and just better to get all brand new.

 

Like most other people have said your better off buying a new master cylinder and changing it then trying to fix it. Most honda master cylinders fail due to an internal leak...

 

thanks for the headsup. How much did it cost u guys to fix, and did u use genuine acura parts or aftermarket. On acuraautomotiveparts, the master cylinder for a 3.2tl (part#1 in the diagram) retails for $212.

http://www.acuraautomotiveparts.org/...prddisplay.jsp

 

aftermarket oem replacement is fine, I've used NTP master cylinders before and they haven't failed me yet. Click

 

Thanks a bunch for the link - this is what ill probably end up purchasing.

Any advice on installation such as bleeding procedures?

 

always start with the wheel farthest from the master cylinder and continue to move closer. Make sure you have friends to help, friends with strong legs because there is a lot of pumping involved. Just go in this order and you should be fine, passenger rear, driver rear, passenger front, driver front. Make sure you pump 2-3 times at each wheel. Then go back around until the fluid is clean at every wheel. Always check the master cylinder and never let the level of fluid get below the low mark. before you install the master cylinder put some fluid in it and pump it until fluid comes out, this will help keep air out of the system.

 

With only 13k miles...sometimes it seems like the brakes make a crunch sound.....I told the dealer last time I was in..but they didn't find anything...is this sound normal?

...it doesn't happen every time..but I can definitely feel some grinding in the brake pedal when it does happen..what do you think it is?

 

could be metal on metal. if you have any debris that has gotten caught between the pad and the rotor, it could grind. do you feel any shimmy/vibration when it makes that noise? i doubt a 'crunching' sound on any car, let alone a brand new TL, is normal.

 

No vibration...just notice when I brake..normally you just feel pedal..I'm feeling two things come together..no noise..just feel it in my foot..lol..like maybe it's the brake pads...but at 13k miles?

 

Mine just started today. Crap. Crappy Crap. Crappy Crap Crap Crap! If that's not bad enough I just dropped $300 two hours ago to have my both of my amps rewired. They're keeping it over night and picking back up on it tomorrow. Woo hoo......NOT!

 

MASTER CYLINDER!!!

I just had mine fixed last month!

 

$150.00 labor to change at local garage. Not bad. I would have done it myself if I didn't need my car working right ASAP. I found a rebuilt lifetime warranty M.C. at Autozone for $71.00 after you take yours back (core charge/deposit was $50.00) FYI

**200 Posts!**

 

I (the one who started the thread btw) went with LDH's recommendation, and purchased my master cylinder brand-new for $99 from NTP. Worked out great for me, and my mechanic only charged me $50 to put it in!

 

Yeah, I got charged $150.00, but I'm not buddies w/ the mechanics at the garage I went to. I need to find a new mechanic buddy...