my "abs" light came on, could it b bc my brake pedal slowly goes all the way down when i apply the brakes. i assumed that was bc of the master cylinder.

has anyone else had an "abs" light come on, and if so, what was yur issue?

 

It is a common problem on our cars.

It becomes more of an "idiot light" to some but to ours it is a problem.

 

so how do i get it to turn off?
take out the bulb?

 

You can take the bulb but I would just leave it.

I mean mine just came on and I know that there is nothing wrong with it. The light doesn't bother me.

To you, does the car brake the same way as it did when you first got the car? Do you sense anything wrong?

 

naw it brakes like a porsche.
the only thing is that the pedal slowly sinks all the way down when i'm at a light for too long. i have to release and step on it again.
when it starts to sink it loses the pressure and my car begins to roll. thats y i assumed it needed a different master cylinder. am i wrong?

 

Either that or there is air in the lines.

I had the issue but toady when I changed my caliper, I bleed the brake lines, air came out and it is fine now.

 

sweet, i'll explore that path.

whats the deal with stainless lines?
worth the money or not?

 

It just prevents bubbling and rips.

IMO they are worth it.

 

sound like master cylinder, thats what happen to my sister lexus pedal to the ground

 

happened with my last Honda Civic too. master cylinder is the culprit.

 

Is your car a 2.5 or 3.2 TL? You should add this info to your signature so it's always presented.

I would repair the master cylinder. You may need braking fast and not have time to pump someday. Fluid may be leaking out and lowering the fluid level, but more likely the fluid is bypassing the piston (internal leak) w/o fluid loss.

ABS can be repaired usually. Most frequent problem is wheel sensor fault. You can extract the fault code by shorting the Service Check Connector under the glove box, turn keyswitch to ON, and read the flashing ABS light code. First ABS will come on for 2 secs, go off for 2 secs, and then flash your codes w/ all short flashes (f) and 1sec pause (P) between 1st and 2nd digit. Code 4-2 = f-f-f-f-P-f-f. Get your codes and I'll try to help diagnose your problem. If there are multiple codes, there is a 5 sec pause between the codes. Codes will repeat 3 times. Write them down and monitor several times to be sure you got them correctly.

good luck

 

sorry bout that. i have a 96 2.5. I don't have fluid loss so i'd say its an internal leak. as soon as i find someone that knows how to read those codes i'll post them.

 

Go to Autozone or a local chain parts store they will have a OBD-II reader that can read the codes for you.

 

ABS codes are not encoded for OBD2 scanning and only way to get them (w/o Acura special tool) is the manual procedure I described above.

good luck

 

Wait... you have to have a honda tool to check the ABS? :/
Mine's light is on too, but I'm pretty certain its because of what appears to be a locked caliper.

 

Where would the sensor be on the front driver's side?

 

Turns out my ABS light is a completely different issue than the locked caliper, which I'm replacing tomorrow. My ABS module was completely bone dry of fluid, so I filled it up with fluid.

Now it makes a horrible wretched windy clicky noise of doom. I'm guessing my entire module is shot.

 

It may be toast. Good news is there are used modulators readily available as used parts for reasonable prices. check car-part.com.

good luck

 

Where is the module located?

 

Right side of the car. just underneath the hood hinge, pretty much. You'll see the brake lines coming out of it.

 

Has anyone done a DIY ABS Module replacement?

Do the brake lines leading in/out of the module need replaced, or is that just the dealer trying to sell me more stuff?

How do you bleed the ABS sytem?

I just found these guys: http://www.modulemaster.com/en/index.php and have asked if they rebuild the ABS module for our car. I'm hoping they do. If they do, it'll be around $300 with a 5 year warranty. Beats the hell out of $2000 and 2 year warranty, doesn't it? :3

I'm thinking about finding a salvage yard, ripping a broken one out, shipping it to them to rebuild and then yanking the old and reinstalling the new.

 

It says ABS right on it no? It contains like 5-6 different things including fuses doesn't it?

 

I dunno if it's got fuses. It's got 6 brake lines going in and out. I'm guessing I would need somebody in the car to hold the brakes so that I could cap them after forcing fluid out. ...but that's only a guess. Acuras are so weird >.<

 

Brake lines should be fine unless you have unusual underhood corrosion. You do need a 10mm flare tubing wrench to turn the tubing nuts w/o damaging them.

I've never had to bleed an ABS system. As the system pumps up to pressure air is purged. There is a bleed valve on top of ABS unit, but I've never had to use it after replacing and filling the reservoir. You will have to bleed the brake system for sure once you open the system to replace modulator.

Rebuild sounds OK, but still expensive compared to used unit, < $100. Check car-part.com.

good luck

 

Yeah, no modulators on that website. :p

The guys at Modulemasters thought I said "lexus" and said "we no do lexus". I told him them it was an Acura...and they already work on Hondas. Acuras are Hondas. So :p Still waiting to hear back.

 

DAMNIT. They don't repair Acura/Honda ABS Modules... something about "not knowing how to talk to the computer" or something. :/ Weak Sauce.

 

Modulator is call "anti-lock pump" on car-part.com. Here's the search link.

http://car-part.com/cgi-bin/search.c...ey=&userPage=3

 

well i finally found someone who says that yur technique is simple so as soon as i can get him to check it out i should be rolling without that annoying ass light on. by the way thanx TexasHonda

 

Bumping this thread.
My ABS light is playing games with me. It comes on and goes off randomly. I jumped the blue connector and came with 4 long and 3 quick flashes. Now whats the problem behind this code? I googled but didn't find anything for 4-3..

 

If I'm reading the diagnostic chart right, it looks like it could be a wheel sensor. I'll try to dig up the complete list that TexasHonda sent me. Maybe I have it in my regular email; I'll look.

 

I looked and found the codes for 4-1, 4-2, 4-4, and 4-8. I wonder if 4-8 should have been 4-3? if so it's left rear sensor.

 

Hmm, maybe I didn't count them right. I'll check it again today and post back..

 

I would recheck the code. It's real easy to misread one.

However, code 4-3 is code for RR wheel lock. This means the wheel sensor is telling the ABS controller the RR wheel is not turning. This could mean the sensor is loose from mounting, tone wheel on axle is damaged or very greasy. I would check the RR wheel sensor, pull it out clean the sensor, stuff a rag in the hole to press against the tone ring (ring w/ upset lugs that pass just beneath the sensor). Turn wheel and clean tone ring. I've had this procedure fix a wheel sensor. Sensor is showing good; ie no electrical faulty in wheel sensor circuit so no turn signal seems more likely.

good luck

 

Its your master cylinder. Mine did the same thing too. Just replace it.