Window rattle and door lock problems
I have two issues, not sure if one is related to another.
I just purchased a 96 3.2TL and noticed some of the issues, so I'm just trying to see what can be done to address them.
1. Driver's side window, when lowered part way through, makes a clanking noise when I drive over the bumps. It sounds like it is hitting something metal or hard plastic. I also noticed scratch marks on the window, pretty much from the bottom all the way to top, so it appears to be rubbing against something. This brings me to my 2nd issue, although not sure of they are related.
2. Same door, door lock will only lock when the car is running. If I shut the car off, and press the door lock switch, I can hear the lock click and see it move about 1/4" but it does not lock all the way.
Any ideas and suggestions (especially with photos
) are greatly appreciated.
I just purchased a 96 3.2TL and noticed some of the issues, so I'm just trying to see what can be done to address them.
1. Driver's side window, when lowered part way through, makes a clanking noise when I drive over the bumps. It sounds like it is hitting something metal or hard plastic. I also noticed scratch marks on the window, pretty much from the bottom all the way to top, so it appears to be rubbing against something. This brings me to my 2nd issue, although not sure of they are related.
2. Same door, door lock will only lock when the car is running. If I shut the car off, and press the door lock switch, I can hear the lock click and see it move about 1/4" but it does not lock all the way.
Any ideas and suggestions (especially with photos
) are greatly appreciated.
Corroded terminal adding too much resistance? That could be it. As for the rattle, it should be the window track getting loose. When you roll it down, go a little past where you want it to be, then roll it back up. That usually does it, or press down on the window once it's where you want it to kinda "seat" it. That'd be good until you have time to take the door apart.
~Cheers~
~Cheers~
Corroded terminal adding too much resistance? That could be it. As for the rattle, it should be the window track getting loose. When you roll it down, go a little past where you want it to be, then roll it back up. That usually does it, or press down on the window once it's where you want it to kinda "seat" it. That'd be good until you have time to take the door apart.
~Cheers~
~Cheers~
Thanks. I am planning on replacing the stock 15 year speakers soon, so I will have it apart and hopefully it will stay on the tracks for a bit.
The loose window thing has been bothering me too. I also noticed that the front doors seem kinda loose and flimsy compared to the rear ones which are rarely used. If you close any of the rear doors, the sound it makes is the same as a dead body dropping to the floor (as Jeremy Clarkson would put it). When I close the front ones, though, it sounds like something is shaking and rattling. Any ideas how to fix this - Dynamat maybe?
As for the loose windows - there is a way to tighten the tracks right?
As for the loose windows - there is a way to tighten the tracks right?
The loose window thing has been bothering me too. I also noticed that the front doors seem kinda loose and flimsy compared to the rear ones which are rarely used. If you close any of the rear doors, the sound it makes is the same as a dead body dropping to the floor (as Jeremy Clarkson would put it). When I close the front ones, though, it sounds like something is shaking and rattling. Any ideas how to fix this - Dynamat maybe?
As for the loose windows - there is a way to tighten the tracks right?
As for the loose windows - there is a way to tighten the tracks right?
I heard some people used Dynamat to kill the road noise, I'd assume it would help with the "Dead Body Dropping" sound a bit. I also heard people fill up some openings with expanding foam, although I am not sure if it will cause any of the moving parts to stick, so it would probably require some careful planning.
Its probably loose track. When you take it apart for the speakers, take a look at it. Also you can lube the track and the cables for a little faster windows...
https://acurazine.com/forums/1g-tl-problems-fixes-118/faster-windows-576408/
https://acurazine.com/forums/1g-tl-problems-fixes-118/faster-windows-576408/
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Thanks! That will keep me busy for a while. Once I'm done with that, it will be time to tackle the infamous D4 light and a leaky trunk. Although, I did already replace my cracked tailight (found one on eBay for $50), so I am hoping most of the problems will be done now. If not, I'll get new gaskets.
I have two issues, not sure if one is related to another.
I just purchased a 96 3.2TL and noticed some of the issues, so I'm just trying to see what can be done to address them.
1. Driver's side window, when lowered part way through, makes a clanking noise when I drive over the bumps. It sounds like it is hitting something metal or hard plastic. I also noticed scratch marks on the window, pretty much from the bottom all the way to top, so it appears to be rubbing against something. This brings me to my 2nd issue, although not sure of they are related.
2. Same door, door lock will only lock when the car is running. If I shut the car off, and press the door lock switch, I can hear the lock click and see it move about 1/4" but it does not lock all the way.
Any ideas and suggestions (especially with photos
) are greatly appreciated.
I just purchased a 96 3.2TL and noticed some of the issues, so I'm just trying to see what can be done to address them.
1. Driver's side window, when lowered part way through, makes a clanking noise when I drive over the bumps. It sounds like it is hitting something metal or hard plastic. I also noticed scratch marks on the window, pretty much from the bottom all the way to top, so it appears to be rubbing against something. This brings me to my 2nd issue, although not sure of they are related.
2. Same door, door lock will only lock when the car is running. If I shut the car off, and press the door lock switch, I can hear the lock click and see it move about 1/4" but it does not lock all the way.
Any ideas and suggestions (especially with photos
) are greatly appreciated.Thanks! That will keep me busy for a while. Once I'm done with that, it will be time to tackle the infamous D4 light and a leaky trunk. Although, I did already replace my cracked tailight (found one on eBay for $50), so I am hoping most of the problems will be done now. If not, I'll get new gaskets.
I also just discovered that the same door lock on the driver's side, locks just fine using the passenger's side door lock switch, even with the car shut off. So, it just seems not to work when using the driver's side lock switch. Does this narrow it down to any specific wire? I wish I had a wiring diagram.
Well, he didn't say if his door was open or closed when he was trying to lock them. If it's open, just pull the door handle then flip the switch. If it's closed and doing that, then your switch has a problem.
~Cheers~
~Cheers~
Problem: driver's side lock will not lock using the driver's side door lock button with the car shut off.
1. Driver's side lock works when the car is running.
2. Driver's side lock works when the passenger door is opened and passenger's side lock button is used to lock all doors.
3. Driver's side lock works when the passenger door is closed and passenger's side lock used to lock all doors.
4. Driver's side lock works when door is locked by lifting the door handle and using the lock button (although I think it's getting stuck when trying use the switch to unlock it).
The only time driver's side lock does not work is when I try to lock the car using the door lock button on driver's side after the car has been shut off.
I hope this makes sense, as it does not make any sense to me LOL
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