Tino D'Voe

I've been doing some reading lately, mostly on the bob the oil guy forum and looks like the majority agree that synthetic is better off for you in the long run. I'm wondering who has gone this route here and what procedure you did to switch over.

Also looking at the oils they recommend, the main recommendation is for one of the remaining true synthetics like amsoil or german made castrol. I can get that german castrol close to my house but it only comes in 0w30 which i'm wondering if its safe for our cars.

the last question I have is on the auto-rx stuff that they're raving about over there. i'm wondering if anyone has cleaned out their engines with this and what you think of it.

sushimaster

I used to use Amsoil 5W-30. I've switched over to Mobil One 5W-30 synthetic. And regular Fram filter. I change my oil about every 5000 miles now. The reason I switched over to Mobil One is because it's alot cheaper, readily available and I couldn't tell the difference as far as performance. The Amsoil is suppose to have longer interval between changes (12,000 miles or one year). But when I checked, the oil looked very dirty after 6000 miles. And you have to change the filter in between oil changes. To me Amsoil wasn't worth it. Mobil One protects almost as well up to 5000 miles and is much more economic.

Go90go

I was running GReddy GR-2 and I'm currently using Syntec 5w30. 0w30 won't necessarily harm the engine, but just don't live in a cold place. Also, switching to synthetic oils after using mineral for alot of miles will cause small oil leaks and oil burning, so unless you've torn down your motor and rebuilt it from scratch, I wouldn't recommend going to synthetic.

~Cheers~

The_Prophet

0w 30 mobil

Tino D'Voe

I've got 100K miles on it now. So should I stay away from synthetic? Is there any benefit to doing an engine flush such as seafoam or the auto-rx?

01tl4tl

Our cars in well maintained condition, - the engines have been torn down at 200K miles and no signs of wear- even the piston walls look excellent

As long as you have been keeping up with oil changes its a simple matter to switch as the new blends are totally compatible with rgular oil.

A can of Seafoam used as directed about 50 miles before your oil change will clean out all the carbon and junk. Then you will be ready.

Seafoam can be done twice, now and at next oil change, then you are golden for 15k miles
See the 2nd gen forum- thread title seafoamed the ol TL for pics and info

Mobil Oil changed its formula to a cheaper way.

I like Castrol with a K&N filter #1004, filtering is all important- filter nearly same as Mobil 1 filter but has better o-ring and a 1 inch nut to help remove filter

If your car leaks oil now or shows smoke blowing out the tailpipe- then synthetic will slip past those same leaks even better than regular oil
If no leaks or consuption problems- go for it!

Synthetic should still be changed every 3-5 thousand miles

In Canada winter- you can use 0W 30 no prob- in the summer bump it up to 5 or 10/30
Synthetic makes for easier cold starts and protects better in high heat situations.
Its also ok to go back and forth with syn and reg if you need too.

I plan on keeping the TL a long time, so every improvement to life and minor improvement in fuel mileage is good with me!

At 100k miles- you should do the spark plugs a few days after the seafoam treatment
And use the NGK Iridium plugs- last long time work extra good!

Good Luck

Petie

I switched to synthetic at my last oil change.... I was at 89,000 miles.

I'm almost to 94,000 now so it's about time.... I'm sticking with the synthetic.

I haven't had any problems in the last 5,000 miles.

Tino D'Voe

could someone explain what exactly the difference is between a 0w30 vs 5w30. I've read that the first digit is the temperature at cold start while the 30 is temp when the car warms up, but I don't understand what it means in terms of how it works.

And a little off topic, is there any good places I could order the ngk iridiums at a good price? Here in canada these go for a ridiculous amount.

01tl4tl

Look in the Off Topic area Sponsored Sales vendor name is Excelelrate they have what you need! Just PM him

The first number of oil is the the thickness at low temp- so 0 is thinner than 5

If really curious look on the internet

Go90go

Thickness at low temp, which is why I didn't recommend the 0w30 for Canada. Anyhow, I've got some burning issues and I'm at 233,668 miles, . There was a thread on Seafoam on this side of the board as well, and I've done it both through the PCV and the brake booster, but it was the PCV that really got the stuff out. Iridium IXs also being used in my car. Oh well, motor's going to be taken apart eventually and fitted with an MHG, so I'll clean it out thoroughly then.

~Cheers~

01tl4tl

To clarify the first number of an oil designation is not the "cold thickness" it is the start up thickness. As soon as its moving and warming- the higher number part is in play and is the actual value of oil viscosity the engine is getting.
I dont understand why anyone would object to using 0-30 in the Far North if thats what is available.

We run 5-30 in mid California where it gets in the 20s sometimes overnight.

Go90go

I know about the temps overnight as you'll usually find me out at 3 or 4 in the morning, . Start-up thickness can also be cold thickness if you think about it: usually your motor is cold after being shut off for awhile. I just wouldn't trust a low viscosity oil to do a cold-start, but I like the benefits of it in overall operation. Meh, mine's always garaged anyhoo.

~Cheers~

teekay3001

233,668 miles, man i hope my TL lives to see those numbers, but then i dont know if i'm going to keep it for that long because i want to fix her up and sell it to get maybe a 3rd gen or somn, i'm not quite sure yet, the jags have been looking pretty appealing these days as well as the benz's , i really cant fool with anything domestic though...but i hope my TL lives that long, any special maintenance tips?

fsttyms1

I switched to syn at 100k and never had a problem. It never burned or leaked. I ran 10 to 15k change intervals. When i pulled the motor out at 200k it was still in perfect shape. the original cross hatching was still visible. Id say if the motor is in good condition and not leaking or burning oil its safe to switch over

Go90go

Just make sure you're good on fluids and NEVER go to lower grade gas. My poor car was given Plus and Regular for months before I got it and I'm not even sure that the original owner was putting Supreme. BTW, I'm over 234,100 now, hehe.

~Cheers~