is there a special thing to hook the subs to the stock cd player?

 

yeah there is a special kit for it. you can find it at best buy but im sure you already know that you get more of an "umph" with an aftermarket performance headunit

 

its called LOC.. line output converter..

 

If you search the Audio section there are instructions on how to hook this up without the LOC. I think I have a diluted copy of them that I can post for you in the meantime. Mind you my notes were gathered with a 99 TL-P in mind!

Removing rear seats

these are surprisingly easy. The trick is to start with the one bolt holding the bottom seat on. It's located right behind where the seatbelt latches stick out on the driver's side. I think its 11mm, and you'll need a socket extension. Pull seat bottom up from front and remove. There are three more bolts holding the seatback on. (On the bottom, one on each side, and one where the other belt latch is mounted. Slide the seatback up a couple inches and it will come free. This takes a little effort.


Remote for amp

Remove rear seat for access to stock amp. Unplug wiring harness to stock amp. Remove stock amp (optional) and stock sub(best practice) - leave wiring harnesses in place. The wiring harness that you unplugged from your stock amp contains an orange wire - this is your remote power turn-on for your new amp, so splice into it and extend it to your new amp. Run new fused power cable from battery to your new amp. Ground new amp to body. Inside the same wiring harness to your stock amp there is a twisted pair wrapped in a puke brown shield, splice into the two wires inside the brown shield with some 22 gauge twisted pair(long enough to reach your new amp) and solder (1) RCA connector to the other end. (Polarity doesn't matter) This RCA is your mono input to your new amp. Connect new amp to new sub and have fun.

Running Power wire
There is a grommet with a wire bundle way up above the emergency brake pedal. It comes out down behind the strut housing in the engine bay. It's a beetch but can be done. You have to make a new hole in the grommet on the engine bay side(very carefully to not cut other wires). Push your finger thru it from the cabin side and gently guide a coat hangar with a small looped end to not cut any wires. Once thru, pull it back with a strong piece of pulling string. Then use the string to pull in your new power cable. Also can use some liquid dish soap for a pulling lubricant.

Eliminating the LOC

You do not need a LOC. Tap into the two wires in the sheath with another twisted pair cable long enough to reach your amp. On the other end of your new cable, solder (1) RCA connector to it. Polarity does not matter- 1 wire to pin, the other to shield. Assuming your amp is bridgeable and having read manual for mono operation, for most amps you connect RCA to your amp's left input and your sub to the outer most speaker outputs, usually L+ and R-. Make sure you amp's switches and such are set for mono/bridged operation and your sub are wired correctly(ohm wise) to match your amps specs.


Hope this helps!!

 

please keep in mind that the 1st gens does not have a factory amp and sub... our cars are internally amplified...

 

the output convertor would work if i put that in my rear trunk where my speakers and connect it through there. instead taking out the unit..i readed some stuff about the pac output convertor that some people put it in the rear...it has a remote wire.

 

u have a link??? it has been a while since i have done an install on a vehicle that required a LOC... when i did my TL, the only LOC didn't have a remote option built into it... i would like to read up a little more on it to see whether or not you have to tap another wire into the unit??? or if for some miracle it is taking the feed straight off the speaker line, which i don't even think is possible...

i have seen LOC where there is a ground slot so you can ground the unit as to reduce a ground loop (alternator whine)... but i haven't come across the one that you mentioned...

 

http://www.cybergiftcenter.com/appli...&mpn=Trunk-loc

built in remote wire so no need to connect to fuse box

 

You should be able to find a passive LOC that does not require any remote or power wires, just some high level inputs from one of your rear 6x9 speaker wires (that is what I used in my TL before I swapped the HU). In fact, I may still have that LOC.

If this is just for subs, then you should not have to tie into both the left and right signals, making your life easier.