Starting Problems on a 96' 2.5TL
Starting Problems on a 96' 2.5TL
I was wondering if any of you guys had this problem. My cars starts once in a while. It cranks but doesnt turn over for some reason. You can hear the engine cranking and everything but for some reason it doesnt start, then I walk away from the car for 5 to 10 minutes and then it starts like nothing was wrong. Then a couple of times while I was waiting at a Red Light the car just shut off and wouldnt start again.
Wondering if you guys had a similar problem. If so what do you folks think it could be. I dont think its my starter but then again I am no mechanic.
Its at Acura right now but they have to diagnosis the car and let me know what it is. I know they will rape me on the pricing. I just dropped it off last night for them to perform the extended emissions warranty on it, which includes the replacement of both the O2 sensors, the one on the Exhaust Manifold and the one by the Caylitic Converter under the warranty. Cause when I ran the car on the computer by my mechanic he said that both sensors are bad.
Fill me in if you have any advice, thanks in advance for all your help.
Wondering if you guys had a similar problem. If so what do you folks think it could be. I dont think its my starter but then again I am no mechanic.
Its at Acura right now but they have to diagnosis the car and let me know what it is. I know they will rape me on the pricing. I just dropped it off last night for them to perform the extended emissions warranty on it, which includes the replacement of both the O2 sensors, the one on the Exhaust Manifold and the one by the Caylitic Converter under the warranty. Cause when I ran the car on the computer by my mechanic he said that both sensors are bad.
Fill me in if you have any advice, thanks in advance for all your help.
Acura called me back and filled me in on the 411.
Turns out my distributor cap was cracked and my wires were shot. Acura replaced them for Free under the extended emissions warranty. THe two O2 sensors are on order so they should be comming in next week where I will have to drop off the car and have it replaced for free.
Free.99 is the best price!!!!!!
I love it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Turns out my distributor cap was cracked and my wires were shot. Acura replaced them for Free under the extended emissions warranty. THe two O2 sensors are on order so they should be comming in next week where I will have to drop off the car and have it replaced for free.
Free.99 is the best price!!!!!!
I love it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
that's awesome.
i would have guess the O2 sensors since the starting was the issue. also the crank case sensor could be a culprit. that went out on my other..just shut off and would never start again. but if they did full diag. i'm sure they would have caught that too.
i would have guess the O2 sensors since the starting was the issue. also the crank case sensor could be a culprit. that went out on my other..just shut off and would never start again. but if they did full diag. i'm sure they would have caught that too.
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Yep its all part of our emissions warranty, not just on Acuras but on Hondas as well, so I need to get my mother's Accord out there and my Father's CL out there as well. My dad's CL only has 40k on it though and its a 97'
Originally Posted by BobbysTL
Yep its all part of our emissions warranty, not just on Acuras but on Hondas as well, so I need to get my mother's Accord out there and my Father's CL out there as well. My dad's CL only has 40k on it though and its a 97'
It's a FEDERAL EMISSION UPDATE.
Could anyone help? My acura 2.5 TL 1996, has a problem. It starts when the engine is cool and does not start when the engine is hot. What can the problem be? I sent it to the mechanic who said it was the starter. He rebuilt the starter, but the problem still exists.
First step is always to check whether you are missing spark. Pull a plug wire, install an old sparkplug, and ground the plug body to frame somewhere. Have someone turn the engine over why you inspect for a spark. You should get a nice pink-blue spark. Be careful! The voltage is enough to stop your heart if applied correctly.
If no spark at all, you know the problem is loss of spark and not a fuel problem. Check for 12 volts to the distributor w/ keyswitch ON. If nothing, you have a bad ignition switch. If you have voltage to the distributor, cracked distributor rotor or cap, bad ignitor or coil are the likely source of the problem. A wiring diagram of the starting system is essential.
If you have a good spark, then problem is fuel delivery; fuel filter, main fuel relay, fuel pump, roughly in that order. A quick confirmation of loss of fuel pressure is to crack the bleeder bolt on the fuel rail w/ keyswitch ON. If you get no spray of fuel, fuel delivery problem is confirmed. Check the other items for faults.
good luck
If no spark at all, you know the problem is loss of spark and not a fuel problem. Check for 12 volts to the distributor w/ keyswitch ON. If nothing, you have a bad ignition switch. If you have voltage to the distributor, cracked distributor rotor or cap, bad ignitor or coil are the likely source of the problem. A wiring diagram of the starting system is essential.
If you have a good spark, then problem is fuel delivery; fuel filter, main fuel relay, fuel pump, roughly in that order. A quick confirmation of loss of fuel pressure is to crack the bleeder bolt on the fuel rail w/ keyswitch ON. If you get no spray of fuel, fuel delivery problem is confirmed. Check the other items for faults.
good luck
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