Seafoaming

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Old Feb 5, 2009 | 01:47 PM
  #1  
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Seafoaming

Im going to do the seafoam in my car. I have the fuel filter and the pcv valve for replacement. The question is what I need to do before, the seafoam or replacement the fuel filter and the pcv valve?

Thanks in advance.
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Old Feb 5, 2009 | 01:50 PM
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seafoam.
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Old Feb 5, 2009 | 02:51 PM
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have you ever try searching first. there like thousand of these on this forum

after you seafoam you might have to replace your spark plugs
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Old Feb 7, 2009 | 05:30 PM
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It's been about a month since I did my seafoam and recetnyl my car has been pretty bad ride wise. When I step on the gas I get quite a few odd noises and it feels like its missing a bit. Could this be due to needing new spark plugs? Or is it a tranny issue?
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Old Feb 7, 2009 | 05:49 PM
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^sounds like spark plugs.
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Old Feb 7, 2009 | 06:12 PM
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Originally Posted by tmnhs81
^sounds like spark plugs.
Thanks, I really hope so. I already have everything to do the spark plugs (NGK wires and plugs) but I havent put them in yet. I'll get on it and see if that fixes the problem.
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Old Feb 7, 2009 | 11:00 PM
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If you already had over 70-80k miles on the plugs- it was ready for them anyway
Seafoam doesnt eat plugs so much as loosened crud gets on them and sticks- fouling them and reducing spark. Older weak sparking plugs are more likely to have that occur
Fresh-recent plugs its no sweat to seafoam as long as you do the after drive to heat the engine and exhaust and blow out the crud
Use a vac port that is at the TB or shoot thru the opening of the TB into the engine

It can eat plugs if used in extreme high doseage- well past the makers suggested amounts- for several tanks of gas in a row (was cleaning out crud on a motorcycle that had been sitting), it worked but appeared to have worn the plugs a bit, they are only 10 bucks a full set on the bike so replacement is no sweat.

the TL is 50 bucks for a full set, and a job you really only want to do once-(Im gen2 so gen1 may be easier)
Buy the correct good plugs and it will get another 60-70k miles strong on them

Pull a plug and inspect now
NGK Iridium is used in gen2 and 3
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Old Feb 8, 2009 | 12:31 PM
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Originally Posted by wingedboss3
Thanks, I really hope so. I already have everything to do the spark plugs (NGK wires and plugs) but I havent put them in yet. I'll get on it and see if that fixes the problem.
How is ur trans fluid?

It does sound like a spark issue. check the plugs, could be wires too if the plugs look good.
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Old Feb 8, 2009 | 02:11 PM
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Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
If you already had over 70-80k miles on the plugs- it was ready for them anyway
Seafoam doesnt eat plugs so much as loosened crud gets on them and sticks- fouling them and reducing spark. Older weak sparking plugs are more likely to have that occur
Fresh-recent plugs its no sweat to seafoam as long as you do the after drive to heat the engine and exhaust and blow out the crud
Use a vac port that is at the TB or shoot thru the opening of the TB into the engine

It can eat plugs if used in extreme high doseage- well past the makers suggested amounts- for several tanks of gas in a row (was cleaning out crud on a motorcycle that had been sitting), it worked but appeared to have worn the plugs a bit, they are only 10 bucks a full set on the bike so replacement is no sweat.

the TL is 50 bucks for a full set, and a job you really only want to do once-(Im gen2 so gen1 may be easier)
Buy the correct good plugs and it will get another 60-70k miles strong on them

Pull a plug and inspect now
NGK Iridium is used in gen2 and 3
I'm going to do the change soon with the NGK. Even if the plugs arent foul I want to put the NGKs in there. I did use a whole can of seafoam in one day so that could be a high dosage.

Originally Posted by vas25tl
How is ur trans fluid?

It does sound like a spark issue. check the plugs, could be wires too if the plugs look good.
My tranny fluid should be good. Did a drain and fill like 2 months ago. If the issue isnt fixed after the new plugs and wires I may think its a tranny issue.
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Old Feb 8, 2009 | 03:12 PM
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a can of seafoam in the intake vac port is fine
2 ounces per gallon of gas in tank is just the suggested cleaning does.
thats 1 can in 1/2 tank of gas.

On the bike I was shooting thru the carbs and running about 4 oz per gallon of gas
and did that 3 tanks in a row.
Not what you would do on a car~

Thats what I NOW consider to be too much in the gas and bad for the plugs
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Old Feb 8, 2009 | 03:23 PM
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Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
a can of seafoam in the intake vac port is fine
2 ounces per gallon of gas in tank is just the suggested cleaning does.
thats 1 can in 1/2 tank of gas.

On the bike I was shooting thru the carbs and running about 4 oz per gallon of gas
and did that 3 tanks in a row.
Not what you would do on a car~

Thats what I NOW consider to be too much in the gas and bad for the plugs
I did half in the PCV and half in the brake booster. There's a video on here. But that was all at one time.
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Old Feb 9, 2009 | 12:51 AM
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Originally Posted by wingedboss3
I did half in the PCV and half in the brake booster. There's a video on here. But that was all at one time.
You could have done either one. It is normally brake booster if the PCV is too hard to access.
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Old Feb 9, 2009 | 10:03 AM
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Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
a can of seafoam in the intake vac port is fine
2 ounces per gallon of gas in tank is just the suggested cleaning does.
thats 1 can in 1/2 tank of gas.

On the bike I was shooting thru the carbs and running about 4 oz per gallon of gas
and did that 3 tanks in a row.
Not what you would do on a car~

Thats what I NOW consider to be too much in the gas and bad for the plugs
The process of the seafoam can damage something in the motor. Seafoam have any risk if this process dont do correctly.
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Old Feb 9, 2009 | 10:49 AM
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Its pretty difficult to damage anything
Seafoam is simply high detergent oils- all petroleum product.
It dissolves carbon and turns stuff to goo

I have heard of those who try to add it WAY too much WAY too fast and get a backwash when the engine stalls, but for a human who can read a diy and follow it~ its more likely to do a good job than damage the engine

Look for a master vac port at the TB to manifold connection
or the brake booster line works too- those have full 20+ inch vac suction
It will literally pull seafoam into the hose,, from an inch away from the liquid, making a tornado as it does!

Dont forget the gas tank- 1 can in 1/2 tank!
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Old Feb 9, 2009 | 02:26 PM
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Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
Look for a master vac port at the TB to manifold connection
or the brake booster line works too- those have full 20+ inch vac suction
It will literally pull seafoam into the hose,, from an inch away from the liquid, making a tornado as it does!

Dont forget the gas tank- 1 can in 1/2 tank!

Do you know where is located the master vac port in the 2.5tl 1998?
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Old Feb 9, 2009 | 03:11 PM
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Originally Posted by LDH
You could have done either one. It is normally brake booster if the PCV is too hard to access.
That's what I've been told. Was it a bad idea to do half in each at one time?
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Old Feb 10, 2009 | 12:23 AM
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Its usually recommended you only do 1/3rd of the can, but I've used a full can before with no issues. My SC300 can run on seafoam with no keys in the ignition. It is really rough, but it is still running.
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