Hi,
I am trying to get a suggested maintenance schedule. I have a 1997 2.5TL. Any input is appreciated.

Oil- change the oil every 7,500, Oil 5W-30

Oil filter- change it every 15,000, but recommended every time you change the oil

Fuel filter- every 60,000

Air filter- every 15,000 or when it is dirty, If you have a k&n filter (33-2267 for 2.5) every 50,000

spark plugs- copper every 60,000, platinum about 120,000

wires, cap, and rotor- They are lifetime, so when do you know when to change them?

Brake fluid- I use dot 4

coolant- flush once a year or every 50,000

timing belt- every 100,000

transmission fluid- drain and fill every 50,000

Tires- 33psi in the front and 31 in the rear

PCV valve- every 10,000 or when you check it and it sounds like the ball inside is moving, you don't have to change.

Am I missing anything? Is anything wrong? thanks any input is helpful

 

the oil depends on the type of driving you do. your owner's manual will tell you all of that type of stuff. the wires, cap and rotor you should be able to get changed via an emissions recall. call your acura dealer and have them look up your VIN to see if it's been done yet. if not, they have to do it for free. and i woulnd't ever change the K&N filter. just get a filter cleaning kit if it gets too dirty. they have a 1 million mile warranty...which is their way of saying "you'll never need another one". everything else looks good. the PCV valve i'm not sure about.

 

Keeping the same oil filter is a bad idea... Change it everytime. It's only a couple of bucks.

I don't know about the changing the PCV valve after 10K miles but yeah, if you shake it and you hear the ball inside moving than it's fine.

 

PCV valve location?

 

the pcv valve is near the spark plgs area. it is a plastic 90 item and a hose is connected to it. that is the hose that you need to remove to replace the pcv valve.

 

So is all the milage amount are correct?

 

Oil every 4-5,000 miles for conventionals, 6-7,000 for Grp IV synthetics such as Mobil 1. Longer intervals require oil analysis to confirm. Always replace your oil filter at every oil change and use a quality filter, at the minimum, a Purolator Premium Plus.

Suggested: Purolator PureOne, Amsoil, Mobil 1.

Filters to Avoid: Fram ToughGuard, Fram ExtraGuard, Supertech.


I normally recommend every 30,000 miles.




I recommend replacing paper air filters every 15-20K, since they load up with dirt rather quickly. I avoid reusable filters at all costs since they do not filter as well as paper air filters. Dirt is very abrasive to the engine, you'll notice that when you have your oil analyzed, it significantly increases your upper-end wear. (Al, Cr, Fe, Cu)


Spark Plugs and Wires should be replaced when high nitration levels are shown in the oil analysis report (poor combustion), or every 60,000 miles. (Plugs and Wires)


Every three years or 50,000 miles, use only Zerex G-05 or Honda OE Coolant.


Every two years or 30,000 miles, do three drain and refills to replace as much fluid as possible. I prefer to use Amsoil Universal ATF.


Replace it every 30K, or when the ball doesn't move. However, if there is a leak, you must replace even if the ball still moves.

Michael

 

why are you avoiding those Fram filters? mobil 1 filters are far too expensive for my taste to change every 3-4k miles. i wouldn't use synthetic if you are above 100k miles anyways (personal opinion) and i don't have the equipment to have my oil tested, so i stick to K&N for the air filtration. i've never heard of any engine going bad due to them. unsure about the abrasion...i have never seen any numbers for that, so i can't say anything bout that one.

 

Fram filters have cardboard endcaps, a poor ADBV, as well as sub-standard construction. The Purolator Premium Plus filter that I recommend is about $3-$4, and the Purolator PureOne oil filter is $6.




It is safe to switch to synthetic oil at any time, but I recommend running two-cycles of Auto-RX prior to switching if your vehicle has over 60,000 miles. And yes, you can switch between conventionals and synthetics at any time. Most of us on the bobistheoilguy forum swich between synthetics and conventionals most of the time for testing.




You can have your oil tested for less than $20 by a lab. If you want the differences between the labs, PM me and I'll explain to you.




The K&N filters don't work very well for many applications, and you'd simply be better off using a paper air filter. Too much dirt will cause unnecessary wear on the engine. Decide for yourself.




Michael

 

The PCV valve does not need to be changed unless needed to. Pull it out and shake it. If it rattles, then it's working. If it doesn't, then replace it.

 

After I read your first post I figured you were a member of bobistheoilguy forum.