I'm pretty sure I need a new starter. Or at the very least, my current one has some loose connection. Sometimes I'll turn the key and all the lights will go on, but the engine will do nothing. There will be one click, and holding the key in the "on" position will do nothing. I'll release, rock in my seat to rock the car, try again, and it will start.

So, how hard is it going to be to change it out? And on that note, do any other cars share the starter? I'd like to grab it from a salvage yard if possible (unless you guys advise against that).

 

Ugh, I just checked the manual. The steps include removing the exhaust and a drive shaft. I hope I don't need to do that...

 

Pound the column and try to start it if it doesn't go the first time. Maybe it's the switch.

~Cheers~

 

Also I read one time that it could be the key.

 

Banged it a couple times. No luck. Found a starter off a wrecked car for $40, so I'll be attempting to install that over the next few days.

 

if you're in Davis, i got mine changed at Triple A Automotive for a decent price (honest mechanic, check them out on daviswiki.org). when i found out the drive shaft had to come out, i said forget the DIY. but if you are DIYing it and you're still in Davis, let me know if you need a hand...

 

I'm a couple towns over, but it seems like a one-man job. The drive shaft doesn't HAVE to come out, it'd just make it easier. Got the car up on stands this evening and spotted the starter. I'll leave the drive shaft in there, work around it, and get incredibly frustrated. But to save myself a couple hundred bucks, it'll be worth it.



There's a big brace underneath, so the only access to it is from where the camera was. The starter hasn't come in yet, so maybe I'll try to take it out a little bit every day, minimizing how much it'll annoy me. I used to hate having small hands, but they're awesome when working on cars.

(I know I have a leak, but it doesn't leave spots and it's not enough to need to top the oil off ever, so I'm leaving it be)

 

I suspect the biggest challenge will be the upper starter retaining bolt. The bolts are usually very tight and getting enough torque in difficult position can be a challenge.

It may be easier to release wiring connections after the starter has been released from engine.

I had similar problems w/ my 2.5TL which has starter under the intake manifold.

good luck

 

That's my plan

 

Well there's my problem (I hope).

(Looking up from the bottom of the car)


I'm fairly certain that wire isn't supposed to have a huge gash in it.

 

That's the main power wire from solenoid to starter motor. If this were shorted you would fry the battery, since there's no fuse between battery and starter (to my recollection). If this wire is open, your solenoid would throw, but starter would not turn. Very similar to damaged solenoid contacts which also interrupts the main power supply path.

good luck

 

Sounds exactly like what the problem is. Thus far I have one bolt out. The manual recommends removing the driveshaft and an exhaust. It seems that removing the driveshaft was optional, but removing the exhaust may be required.

 

Progress.

The top bolt of the starter, above the exhaust. How to get to it?


Go in from above! I've got a socket on it.



My tool of choice. Socket + adapter + ratchet.



It went one ratchet click at a time. As it stands now the starter is out of the engine, but the electrical connections are still attached. One problem: I'm not entirely sure the starter can be squeezed out without removing the drive shaft. But I sure hope it can.

 

It has been done.

I remember reading that someone replaced their starter and the mechanic that replaced it didn't have to remove anything so it is possible.

 

Grr, this is a pain. I didn't work on it for about 3 days, but the replacement starter showed up today. Wrong one. Ordering another...

All that's left to remove are two electrical connections. Unfortunately, one of those has a rusted bolt holding it on. Tightly. I've pretty much destroyed the connection on the starter (not the wiring harness) and it's still holding on. I'll go back to it when I'm less annoyed.

 

Damn. I got everything disconnected, and the starter is just sitting there. But there's no way to get it out without removing the driveshaft. There's no space big enough to pull it through. I'll probably tow the car to a shop and have them finish it up.

 

Changed my mind. I'll do it myself.

One thing I'm confused on; the repair manual says to drain the differential fluid, yet it's on the right side. It specifies that it is NOT necessary to drain the fluid when removing the right driveshaft. I'm removing the left driveshaft, yet the differential fluid is stored on the right. Is it a typo in the manual? It seems like I shouldn't need to drain the differential fluid when removing the left driveshaft.

 

I don't think you would do any damage by removing shaft w/ transaxle fluid in place. It may leak out, so be prepared to catch the fluid. You may then have to top up or replace.

good luck

 

Drained the differential fluid. It was needed anyway. The drain bolt had a bunch of gunk stuck in it.

Driveshaft has been removed. Destroyed the lower ball boot thing in the process (that attaches to the brake rotor and the rest of the suspension). Anyone know where I could order a new one? Or what it'd be called on a microfiche?

And the starter is out. Looks like it may have just been a loose wire, but I'm putting the new starter in just in case. I'll have a car shop test the old starter for me.

 

One piece I destroyed and ordered yesterday. It's called a terminal. Anyone know if it actually does anything? Looks like it just acts as an extension.



The rubber boot I need.



And where it came from.



Ideas on what it's called?

 

The boots for the tie-rod ball joint, lower ball joint, or upper ball joint are available from Acura. They are held on w/ a spring clip that can be re-used if carefully removed. Installation can be tricky. I use two Oring hooks to expand and pull over the boot to the seat position.

Lug should attach to the starter solenoid terminal post. Not clear looking at the parts diagram.

I see you use the same jack stand support position (unauthorized by Acura) I use. I recently fabricated a set of wooden adapters to fit the grooved support of the jack stand and slotted to straddle the rail support on the car and bear against frame either side of rail. I don't see a problem w/ your support position, although I turned the support 90 degrees to saddle the housing rather than bridge across. I also leave the hydraulic jack center support (Acura specified) engaged as a 3rd safety. You can't be too careful when you have to crawl under all this to do the job.

Also a good time to examine your steering gear end boot. I've replaced one of mine, and it's much easier w/ everything off as you now have.

good luck

 

my car does the same thing. I've been puttin it off, but I'm gonna hurry and get the starter replaced before it goes on me