Crankshaft Pulley problems

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Old Oct 29, 2013 | 06:37 AM
  #1  
Aaron M's Avatar
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Crankshaft Pulley problems

I have a 97 TL 3.2. My crankshaft pulley separated from the outer ring that turns the alternator. I removed the 3 belts, removed the bolt holding the pulley on, which was what I thought would be the hardest part but now I've run into a problem. The pulley will not clear the frame. Any advice? Ive never jacked the motor up, not sure if theres a different way. ..Plus I saw a notch for the woodruff key but did not see the actual key.

Thanks
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Old Nov 1, 2013 | 10:47 PM
  #2  
Whitey_1997TL's Avatar
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You should be able to jack it up a little bit, just put a board between the jack and oil pan. If you cant move it enough maybe you could unbolt the front mount. According to the service manual you need to hoist the engine to change the timing belt, so I would assume the same goes for the crank pulley.
Heres a link to the manual. http://hondatech.info/downloads/Auto/Manuals/TL/
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Old Nov 2, 2013 | 09:50 PM
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Aaron M's Avatar
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Resolution

I did try to unbolt the front mounts and jack the engine however it did not budge. What I ended up doing was removing the cross bar that goes directly in front of the pulley.

For anyone attempting to do this here is what I did in detail. This is an Acura tl 97, 3.2... This is not a recommendation there may be better ways like hoisting the engine. Using the Honda crankshaft tool and a breaker bar I fit the tool in place and wedged the breaker bar under the battery pan. Using a 2' pipe and another breaker bar with a 19mm socket and a second person I loosened the bolt on the pulley itself.

Then I loosened the belts and removed them from the pulley or left them hanging. I removed the air filter cover and the tube and filter. For easier access I removed the radiator which is doable but messy and a pain. That may not be necessary as you may have enough room but I doubt it. I also had to remove the plastic shield underneath to access the bottom radiator tube because it was such a pain in the butt to get off. Yours may slide off. Also getting small rubber plugs from Home Depot to use on the transmission fluid lines helps too.

If you have this car and have been stuck with this same problem then you will hopefully understand this description. The engine has two mounts in front that are bolted to a motor mount using two bolts each. Those motor mounts form little arms that point toward one another and are connected by a cross bar that goes directly in front of the pulley, all cast aluminum. Each arm has two bolts that connect to the cross bar. I loosened those four bolts about an 1/8th inch. I had to remove the adjuster pulley for the AC in order to gain access to the lower bolt. I tried to remove the entire pulley mount but snapped a bolt head right off so I left it there. It's in the way but doable. I then loosened the the large through bolt that connects the cross bar to a large vibration mount directly in the middle underneath the crossbar. That one was a pain because the rubber mount gives when I put pressure on it. It eventually gave and I was able to loosen it.

I then placed a floor jack with a board under the engine and raised the jack enough so it was tight. (The car is not jacked up in anyway). Using the tire jack that comes with the car I secured it under the left side arm motor mount. It was wedged under the arm and on the frame. Using an identical jack I did the same thing on the other side. There is less room so the jack was wedged on the AC and frame. If there is nothing under the arms when you remove the bolts they will collapse enough to misalign the holes

After confirming all 3 jacks were tight and stable I slowly removed each arm bolt that connects to the cross bar. Then I removed the large through bolt. The cross bar was then free to remove allowing the pulley to come right off.

Hope this helps
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