My baby is a 1996 3.2TL and it won't start. When I turn the key to the 1st and 2nd click - I get nothing. Nothing lights up at all, but if the drivers side door is open - the car will "ding" because I have the key in the car with the door open. When I try to start it - it turns over it will start and run for 1-2 seconds and die again.

I checked all the fuses, cleaned and tightened the battery terminal, and made sure nothing was disconnected.

Any suggestions? Help!

Thanks.

 

When you say "nothing lights up at all", do you mean that w/ key turned to ON or START position there are no dash lights, no starter engagement or even starter solenoid click? In the last sentence you contradict this first description by saying the engine turns over and starts briefly but quits. You need to be precise when describing the no-start details as these are only information readers have.

Your second description of starting briefly and failing is symptomatic of poor fuel delivery; either blocked fuel filter, failing main fuel relay, or possibly failing fuel pump.

More precise details are needed for help.

good luck

 

When I put the key in and turn it to the ACCESSORY position - no dash lights come on. When I put the key in the ON position - no dash lights again. The climate control or the radio does not come on at all in the ON position.

When I turn the key to the START position - the car cranks and starts, but only for a second and then it dies again.

Just right now, I managed to start the car and I ran it for over 30 minutes to charge the battery cuz it hasn't moved in weeks. I turned it off and tried to restart - same thing happens. No dash lights, no radio, no climate control display, nothing. Car starts and then dies right after it starts.

The headlights, interior lights, and harzard lights do work regardless if the key is in there or not.

I hope this makes sense.

Thanks for any help you can provide.

 

The lack of lights on the instrument panel (oil pressure, alternator, and briefly the Check Engine) when keyswitch is in ON position, likely indicates a keyswitch fault. Power for these flows through the keyswitch. There are a couple of fuses in the under-dash fuse box, No 1 (10A) and No. 4 (15 or 20 A), that are in the power leads. Check them also. Worn out keyswitch seems most likely. Try wiggling the switch around when you get a no-start and see if that makes any difference.

Check (at connector) the Blk/Yel wire to the distributor for 12V when keyswitch is ON. If nothing, then keyswitch is definite.

good luck

 

I will check the fuses again and try wiggling it to see if it helps.

I'm not sure what you mean by this..."Check (at connector) the Blk/Yel wire to the distributor for 12V when keyswitch is ON. If nothing, then keyswitch is definite. " Can you elaborate?

If I were to require a new keyswithc, does anyone know how much a new one costs? Can I get it used - say like from a junkyard?

Thanks!

 

The black/yellow wire to the distributor brings 12V to the distributor through the keyswitch to drive the ignition. If there is not 12V on the Blk/Yel wire w/ keyswitch in ON position, the keyswitch is faulty.

A search on car-part.com using your state and zipcode should identify salvage yards near you w/ the part and asking price. A quick look suggests $50-75 would be a fair price. I would check for a new part before purchasing a used part. Sometimes the differential is not enough to justify a used part.

Following link has instructions for replacing keyswitch on Accords, which should be very similar to procedure for Acuras.

Defective Keyswitch Replacement 90 Accord

good luck

 

The 3.2 engine doesnt have a distributor though..

 

I don't have a 3.2TL manual but would suspect the same Blk/yel wire would be distributed to each of the six coil-over-plug units. Battery power should go to the ignition through the keyswitch.

regards

 

It starts! I bought the ignition switch for my 1996 3.2TL, installed it and it worked like a charm. The ignition switch is right behind the lower part of the steering wheel. Take off the upper and lower panel surrounding the ignition, take off the 3 small screws, unplug it, install the new one - that's it. Took me about 30 minutes. The part no. is 35130-SV4-003 and costs about $55. The dealer had it in stock too. Thanks everyone

 

Good repair. I'm glad it worked out easy. Thanks for the followup report.

regards

 

Good work, I'm going to be needing one soon, hehe.

~Cheers~

 

How Can You Verify That The Fuel Pump Is Going Out Or Needs To Be Replaced?

 

when you change the ignition switch, do you have to get a new key for ignition?

 

probably the alternator...if the car starts and dies after a few seconds its probably the alternator, if it doesn't start at all, maybe its the battery or the starter....

 

this thread is over 5 months old haha he said he already got it started.