Tino D'Voe

I'm pulling up a ABS code 1-8.

Assuming this is the modulator that needs to be replaced, which model cars could I search on ebay that will work in our cars?

TexasHonda

First I would suggest checking your modulator accumulator. My 2.5TL shop manual indicates 1-8 is a High Pressure System fault. One of the possible causes is an accumulator that has lost it's gas charge.

What happens when you first start the engine? Does the pump come on and run continuously, stop, and the ABS light illuminate?

Finally, try car-part.com to look for compatible modulators. The output will display which models could be a donor to your car. There are different modulators in the 2.5 and 3.2 TL's and perhaps even different by year.

good luck

Tino D'Voe

thanks for the help. When starting the engine, the motor comes on, you can feel the brake pedal push against your foot while the buzzing occurs for a second or two. The ABS light doesn't necessarily come on right away, it comes and goes as you drive. During driving or at a stop, occasionally you hear the ABS buzz and it is always the same length, one or two seconds long.

That's all I have observed so far, its been the same for 2 years now.

desired_speeds

its the same with mine, my dad's mechanic said if you dont fix it, the ABS will seize eventually

TexasHonda

Under the circumstances, your best bet is a used modulator. You can use car-part.com to locate parts near you. Go to the salvage yard and inspect the units for cleanliness, plugs on the ports (to prevent contamination), and whether the salvage yard will garuntee a working unit. A used modulator is cheap, but you may wind up w/ a bad part. That's why you want the garuntee. I had to buy two cheap units before I got a good one on my daughter's 97 Acura 2.2CL. I had < $100 in both units.

If you are DIY, you should puchases a set of flare tubing nut wrenches. These are open-end wrenches w/ an improved wrap-around partial hex (like a 6-pt socket) to allow an improved grip on the flare tubing nuts. The tubing nuts are usually very tight and you will round them off w/ a regular open-end wrench.

Removal and installation is very easy. Disconnect electrical connections to modulator, loosen tubing guides as needed, carefully remove and plug (to prevent any contamination) the tubing connections to the modulator, loosen modulator tie-down nuts and lift modulator out. Installation is reverse. Take your time when loosening the tubing nuts to be sure wrench is correctly positioned. Bump the wrench w/ your hand to break the nut loose.

A quick check on modulators at car-part.com suggests you should be able to find a 97-98 3.2TL modulator for between $50-75. You never indicated the model of your TL.

good luck

Tino D'Voe

great advice. I should have mentioned what the car is, '96 3.2 TL. I won't buy anything without a warranty since it seems to be a very common for these cars. Any reason why this part on its own lists for $1500 new??? The dealership wanted to charge over $2K to fix the bloody thing.

Any way to just kill the abs system before it has this seizure thing? What exactly happens when the system seizes?

Just curious, is there any way of resalvaging this part? any source out there on how to take apart and try to fix a modulator?

Tino D'Voe

great advice. I should have mentioned what the car is, '96 3.2 TL. I won't buy anything without a warranty since it seems to be a very common problem for these cars. Any reason why this part on its own lists for $1500 new??? The dealership wanted to charge over $2K to fix the bloody thing.

Any way to just kill the abs system before it has this seizure thing? What exactly happens when the system seizes?

Just curious, is there any way of resalvaging this part? any source out there on how to take apart and try to fix a modulator?

TexasHonda

It's expensive because Acura is the only source for a new replacement. It is reasonably reliable, so low demand and hence high markup for stocking the part.

I have repaired a couple of modulators w/ minor faults; electrical wiring and leaking accumulator oring. I tried to repair the pump check valve on one unit w/ an internal leak but was unsuccessful. I disassembled this modulator to see "what's inside". It's a number of sophisticated hydraulic valves primarily. If you have hydraulics experience, you might try to fix your unit. The modulator is not terribly complex (compared to an automatic transmission). You will absolutely need the Acura shop manual to have any hope of determining the problem. It could be as simple as a low gas charge in the accumulator, or other more difficult problems.

A used modulator is <$100 in US (don't know about Canada), and this is definitely easiest way to a true repair. A modulator can be replaced in ~ 1-2 hrs of effort. You will also need to bleed the brakes after modulator installation. You'll need an assistant to bleed the brakes.

The ABS system has numerous built-in protection systems, and I've never heard of a "fail-unsafe" incident, but I'm sure it must have happened. You can simply pull the ABS unit fuse (10A fuse in ABS underhood fuse box) and permanently disable the ABS. However the ABS light will remain illuminated. Brakes will function normally.

good luck