Hello,

I am new to the 1st Generation Forum. I just purchased a 97 3.2TL and it has a couple of issues.

The first is it has stalled twice after stopping to make a turn. The car runs great and the idle at 700rpm. I have been driving the car for 2 weeks, and it has happened only those 2 times.

The second one is tire noise. When I purchased the car I noticed some tire noise. I checked the tires and saw that they were nearly wore out and dry rotted. I assumed that new tires would help. I just put 4 Yokohama Avid H4S tires on and the noise is almost as bad.

Has anyone experienced any of these two issues with their TL?

Thanks for any suggestions.

 

Welcome to the forum.
I was having some stalling issue too.
My mechanic cleaned the engine with some BGK 44 ( I could be wrong) and it runs very very smooth and stalling is gone.
It cost me about $80.00.
As faf as the tire issue, someone may be able to help.

 

I had the same problem , I have the Mechanic here at the dealer so its a little easier for me. but the problem was this ,

I replaced the Fuel filter , air filter , and gave it a real good service . after all that was done , she stalled out on me again . just before I started cursing out my car she fired up.

Telling my mechanic this he told me of the "fuel Relay " its under the dash . any acura dealer should have it in stock. mine cost me about 45 .00 you can install it yourself its only 2 plugs just hard to get big hands to the location .

car has been running great ever since . I just turned 90k on the OD and she purrs like a kitten.


any questions feel free.

D
Miami Acura

 

I can't help with the stalling.

I had the same issue with loud tires, which did not get better when I replaced the tires the first time. However, 40,000 miles later when I had to change the tires again, I did not install performance tires and the noise was less. The first set of tires were Pirelli Sport Veloce. The second set were Pirelli 6000 (?). The third set were BF Goodrich Traction T/A. In addition to less noise, I've also noticed much better performance in snow. I'm sure the performance during high speed operation is not as good, but I don't drive fast or aggressive so hardly notice the difference.

 

I had a similar issue. My car runs perfect and smooth. couple of weeks ago, my car stalled twice at a red light, and when I slowed down for some deer to pass. Has not stalled since.

Yesterday, I went to work and came back fine. When I tried to run it this morning, my car cranked as normal, but will not start. Timing belt should be good, it cranks normally. Starter should be good, it cranks. I sprayed some starer fluid in, it did start, but died right away. Checked fuel pump fuse, was good but replaced anyway.

Did not have any impact yesterday, though it was trash collection day, and wondering if they bumped the back and maybe activated the inertia switch?

My two guesses are
1. fuel pump (did not check pressure yet)
2. Does this car have an Inertia switch(fuel pump kill switch)
If so, where is it.

davemiamiacura: What's the Fuel Relay for, and where exactly is it located. I need to check that one out.

I'm hoping it's as simple as an inertia switch or just a fuse and nothing major. I just spent alot on alignment and new tires this Monday.

-- Thanks


96 TL 3.2 PREM
way too many miles

 

your problems seem to be the same as the what I had. look into the relay switch under your dash . its hard to find but if you went to a dealer and purchased a new relay , you can match it up under your dash . it has 2 plugs that face the floor.
I will be a dollar to a doughnut that that is the problem.

Dave

Miami Acura

contact me if you have any questions....

 

I'm not positively sure which relay it is under the dash. There's a few. I called the dealer, they gave me a discription. it's 4" by 2", and the biggest one there. He called it the main relay. it controls the fuel pump and some other components. I think I see it, it's white. He asked me to tap it and see if it makes a difference. And it sure does. My car starts up , and then dies again . I tapped all of them down there though.
So, later on today I will go and purchase one down there and match it up to the one I have. I've been trying to look for prices and pictures on the web. There isn't mutch out there.

Autozones got a pretty good website though, removal instructions and and component locations for free.

Autozone Component location
http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBr...n=beginCompLoc

Thanks davemiamiacura, I'll know for sure after I replace the part and hopefully it all works out.

-- Rakib

 

it could be the wheel bearing making the noise....

 

I changed out the main relay. It cost me $55 + tax. It worked right away. It's a relay on the left hand side under the dash with two connectors. I was unable to remove the old one, so I just left that in there and connected the new one in. I was just happy the car was working.

 

Can it be made a Sticky ?

I am glad it worked for you.

Could you take a picture of the location ? If it is possible, or write up a How- to.
Let us know where is it located exactly ?

 

Thank you for all your help. I will try the fuel relay. My only problem is it has only happened twice. The rest of the time the car runs wonderfully.

I do not think it is a wheel bearing. I guess I will just have to get used to it. I talked to the guy I bought the car from and his responce was I should not be comparing it to my 2004 TL.

Thanks again for the help.

 

Its nice to hear that all these 1st gen TL's are running god and back on track , I would like to hear the milage on these cars .

Like I said before I have a 96 3.2 TL just turned 90105 miles.
leather is still new sound system is still crisp.

Very happy with this car.


Dave
Miami Acura sales Miami Fla

 

HI,
If you just purchased the car, and its a 1997, I suggest you do a tune-up and lookup recalls if theres any. I dont know and trust any autoshops that already done this.
Heres a list of recommended services to refresh your car,

-oil/filter
-PCV valve
-Air filter
-Spark plugs/Wires/ignition coil
-battery if needed
-Thermostat if needed
-Transmission oil change
-Fuel filter change
-Distributor cap/rotor(Although I dont think the 3.2 applies)
-Radiator fluid change/check for leaks
-check all radator hoses for worn ones that may leak.
-Change transmission filter(if theres one)
-Change brake fuid/rebleed
-change/tighten belts if need be
-tighten the valve
-Add AC refridgerant if need be
-Check the alternator for whining and measure battery with a meter to see if te numbers are close to 14.

All these things be done by yourself, its not too bad, and can save you alot of money. All you need is alot of time. I had to wait close to a month for parts and spent the whole weekend plus a sick day to get it all done.

 

your egr valve might be stuck open when u go for a turn. This creates an open vacuum and when u push on your brakes, your car stalls b/c you have no pressure . The only way to fix the valve is to replace it. This might not be it, but i wold have the valve at least checked. As for your tire noise, that is strange.

 

Nick99acuratl,

You were right! They said I need 2 wheel bearings. They are replacing the fuel relay, 2 wheel bearings, and performing the free emmissions service. My car has 101,656 miles.

 

I posted the following on another thread. Does anyone think the fuel relay may be causing my problems?

"You are correct about being at 2200rpm at approx. 55mph. I am pretty sure I have a problem other than the 1400rpm vibration. I was in stop-and-go traffic on the highway and experienced something new. When coming to a stop the rpms dropped quickly and the headlights got dim for a split second. I thought I had just blinked until it happened again. It feels similar to driving a manual trans. and forgetting to push in the clutch while coming to a stop; only milder and the car never stalls. The rpm needle dips below idle a couple times before stabilizing.

When I experience the problem at 50-55mph, the motor doesn't want to respond, like the engine is misfiring, or getting too much or too little fuel. I believe this problem is somehow related to the engine stall and dimming lights while coming to a stop. In both cases the engine is not firing properly, creating a shimmy. I think I was confusing these shimmys with the 1400rpm vibration because they feel very similar."

 

Im having the same issue. I have a 1997 tl 3.2. Just replaced spark plugs and pcv valve. Changed fuel filter and air filter. I had timing and water pump changed also. Now the car stalls. At first it would just take a little time to get it to start. Now it will not start. The issue is it will not start or if it does it turns off but if I start it drive it for a minute or so every thing is fine.

Main relay under driver side dash works . Fuel pump is not getting power pushed to it. Please help.

 

my 96 TL 3.2 is at 206k and even though its got a few issues here and there i would drive it anywhere.

 

Hello,
I have 1998 Acura3.2TL and having issue with fuel power line issue just like DSM.
individually tesing, Fuel pump, relay, is good. but no power coming in line for Fuel pump.
I have went through every possible option and changing from fuel filter, relays, main relay, fuel pump, ECM, one after another parts so fedup but not giving up yet.

Now I am happy to find this forum to discuss about issue.
Did any one have come to solution and conclusion.
Where and what should I check and test next?
Does any one have answer, :HELP"

TNX
Rj

 

DSM?? The only other thing I can think of that's not on your list is the ignition switch since the fuel pump signal goes through it.

 

I find it rather difficult to believe that if you have the skills (and funds) to have actually changed everything on that list that you've not been able to solve the problem.

 

Hello HP11,
is ignition switch is part of fuel pump power issue? I read through all the wiring diagram and service manual.
Igninition swith is before main PGM relay which power fuel pump. I have tested and it is working fine besides, I have tested two more switchs. There are 10 fuses, which are associated with PGM main relay and ignition switch as follow;
1. Backup (10A)
2. Stop Horn (20A)
3. IG (50A)
4. Battery (30A)
5. ECU (PCM) 20A
6. IG1 IG Coil (30A)
7. No. 2 Fuel pump 15A
8. No. 4 ECU (PCM) 15/20A)
9. No. 1 Back up Light (10A)
10. No.9 Starter Signal (7.5A)

all of them are directly related to ignition switch to PGM main relay and to fuel pump.
which I will try and test all of them over the weeknd and see what happens.

appreciated your suggetion, if you come up any other though let me know.
RJ

 

Hey guys!
I love this web site! I just fixed my PGM-FI main relay. The car start right up without any hiccup. There are bad solder joint in the main relay cause the intermittent power supplier to the fuel pump. The re-solder is take care the problem pretty well.

~Cheers guys~

 

Good for you!