Richard P

Hello all. I have a '96 TL. Recently purchased with no maintenance records. The Odo says 170,xxx mi. I'd hope the belt has been changed but I have no means to confirm.
All the videos show removing the fans; draining the radiator and removing it. I used the Crank Tool (a Loaner from Auto-Zone). The tool is a ''must have''. The first attempt resulted in breaking the 1/2 to 3/8 reducer.
The second attempt resulted in breaking the 3/4 to 1/2 reducer. A 19mm 3/4 drive socket is inbound. I'll post an update on the third attempt.

Richard P

An update----The 3/4 drive 19mm socket arrived late today. An attempt using the 40'' breaker failed because I cant get enough pull on it to supply
the required leverage. I'm hesitant to apply a torch to the bolt; but I may do that, hopefully enough to break any glue bond that may exist.
The force required makes me wonder if the belt was ever replaced. Surely in 25 years and 170xxx miles it was at least once.
The saga continues. I'm open to experiences and ideas.

Richard P

In reviewing several You Tube University videos it seems the application of heat is a key factor.
A few folks found that normal 1/2'' tools are stressed to the limit. As this engine is not transverse
working area is limited.

Richard P

Continuing the saga of a timing belt; today marks success in removal of the crank bolt.
I've come to realize if you wish to defeat this bolt-----bring out the big tools.
I dont believe there is sufficient space for impact tools that might win. There is only six inches
from the pulley holder to the condenser. You dont want to discharge the AC.
The approach that worked was : Use a 3/4 drive breaker about 40 inches long. Add to that
a section of 1 1/4 pipe of at least 30 inches. This will give about five feet of leverage.
On the 5 cyl you have to respect limitations of the fenders. Use a deep well impact 19mm socket
that is 3/4 drive. Assemble the leverage and standing outside the right fender, grasp and begin
hauling on it. Keep adding pressure until you hear the ''SNAP''. Sigh of relief.

Richard P

Continuing the Timing belt replacement : Working between the rain storms, everyday needs and the heat, I've been able to get the
Power Steering belt off. There are two bolts in front; one behind the pump that is accessed from below. They take 14mm.
No to address removal of the crankshaft pulley. In inspecting the existing belts; they look serviceable although I have no
idea of their age. More later

Richard P

Another day; another step. I gave the crank pulley a few sprays of wd40 and let that sit a few hours. Returning
to the work I gave the pulley a few good raps-----who knows if they were of any benefit. I used a fairly large screwdriver
placed between the pulley and lower belt cover and gave that several raps.
I tried to wiggle the pulley a bit and found it loose enough to remove without tools. Another relief. I had expected more resistance.
There is a 10mm bolt behind the oil dipstick that has to be removed and one at the bottom of the cover that wasnt reachable
before. With removal of those the lower cover can be removed exposing the belt and components. It is time to reverify
the marks and relationships. More to follow.

Richard P

Friday update: The turning point.
It is reassembly time. The tensioner is on tight. You dont want this to move. The water pump looks new
on the inside. It has had coolant in it. The best way to remove it is with 6 point sockets.
The old belt looks good. But it isnt gong back. The accessory belts look good and probably will be
reused.

Richard P

It seems a bit tricky getting the tensioner properly placed. My first couple of attempts were rewarded with slipping a tooth.
I believe I have it set properly but didnt hand rotate the crankshaft. Removal of spark plugs will save working against compression.
More to follow. I'm trying to be extra careful with it.

Richard P

Another installment:: The game isnt completely over but I believe I'm at the goal line. After several hand revolutions of the crankshaft and watching the indicators, the last puzzle piece emerged.
You can probe the #1 cylinder and ensure that the piston is up. Are you on an exhaust stroke or compression ? One way to check in to open the distributor and check the rotor position.
Have you seen where it is located ? Placing it at the end of the camshaft keeps it simple. However, there seems almost no room to get any tools or hands back there. I didnt go that route.
Knowing that we require a compression stroke, I borrowed a compression gauge (AutoZone). A tip I read is to loosen or remove all the sparkplugs. I did that, used the gauge, turned the crank bolt and was rewarded
With a reading.
The value was low due to hand operation. Dont let the low reading cause panic.
It seemed prudent to put on the crank pulley fairly tight and try a start. At this point the radiator isnt in. The belts arent on. and little coolant remained. If you try a start remember it is only to confirm
that it will start and sound normal. You only need a few seconds of run.
This one sounds normal on a few seconds of run so I believe I can call a WIN.
I still have to rehang the PS pump, replace all the belts (new) and adjust. Still install the radiator and fans and the hoses (new). Obviously, reconnect the trans lines.
But, I can do so with the knowledge that All the indicators and the test supported proper operation.
I still need to torque spec the crank bolt.
I may have to retract what I said about engine rotation. I'm told that facing the engine it is clockwise. I should have made better note of that prior to the job.
I do hope anyone reading will see that with proper (heavy duty) tools, study, and constant checking for errors, you can do this job.
You cant do it in an afternoon if you havent done one. You can do it taking time to confirm your progress.
RP

Richard P

Post Script : Sunday 12th. The final confirmation after having all the indicators agree is a compression test on #1. By hand rotation you wont get full compression. But--some compression proves you are correct. I added coolant and started it. It picked up and ran properly and settled into an idle. No strange noises were heard. I let it run to a warm up. I did notice the belts indicate CCW crankshaft rotation. (facing the engine). When I get decent tires on it, I'll be able to drive. Of course a title transfer and adding insurance have to be done, too. RP

Richard P

A Conclusion : I drove it 100 miles yesterday (10/02) without any problem, I am happy to report.
I still have to sort the wiper motor problem, a story for another day. rp