I would like a Legend badge instead of the 3.5RL badge too. Maybe we can gauge interest and then see what we can get running?

 

bah, i have to replace the battery. The previous owner replaced it with an acura batter in 06 with 35k on the clock. I now have almost 75k. I guess it's off to wal-mart for a maxx battery.
The rl is parked in the garage overnight but outside during the day. These 35-40 degree days make it harder to start after work. I'm not gettting stuck.

 

@dallison You could try pausing at position II for a second before turning the ignition all the way; it might make starting a bit faster. About 20-30K miles ago i replaced the fuel pump (main relay stranded me and I misdiagnosed the problem) Now, especially when my gas is low, fuel will flow back into the tank overnight or during the work day, causing excessively long crank times. so what i do now is i turn the key to position II for 2 seconds (the fuel pump turns on for 2 seconds when in position II). this pushes the fuel back up the line, and the car will start right away (this is demonstratable and not just a figment of my imagination: 4-second crank time vs 1-second crank time). My battery has been in the car for 50k miles and I live in MD. not quite the great white north, but it's been below freezing the past couple nights.

 

I should probably check when my battery was changed last, it's dropping below 10 degrees lately at night and the RL is outside at night. Going in the garage after this weekend though.

Jerm, that's good advice about the fuel pump.

 

yeah, it's cold as heck at night....and sometimes mine parks outside too bec. the garage spaces are taken (we have 6 cars in the family with 4 garage spots only). but mine has been starting fine; it does take maybe a second longer to start but it fires right up. i don't even know when the previous owner changed the battery and i had the car for 2.5 years already. i might take it to autozone or advanceauto to test it.

 

good advice, i normally do that for whatever reason. It always starts up nicely when i do that.

I could tell that the battery power was getting low when it took loger to crank or had trouble.

When i replaced the battery today, the old one was bulged out a little bit.The new one started the car crisply.

 

Between amplifiers and navigation systems, modern Acura cars drain batteries unfortunately.

 

is the amplifier always on? i know there's a switched battery voltage line going to the amp from the head unit, so i figured that turned on a relay inside the amp that would dirctly cut power when not in use. Also when my stock amp turns on (99 non nav) it only plays the midrange and high frequencies for a couple seconds before adding in the bass. it would not need to soft-start like this if it were always on.

 

If the only recurring complaints are the sunglass holder and emblems missing or gone...then I'm in great shape. Just bought a 98 RL and sunglass holder missing and all emblems intact. Got for a steal, can't wait to post all I am going to do to it with pics.
Going to replace timing belt, water pump, tint windows, install receiver so I can hook the iPod up, clean/replace EGR valve, dash cluster lighting replace, etc...excited!!!>!>!>!>!

 

1.slight leak from the oil pump.. noticed it was leaking when i changed the timing belt and water pump, i guess expected for a 96 with 145k.
2.the lights for the clock went out. takes the rush out of driving when you dont know the time though
3. abs light on, needs new regulater, takes a few seconds to prime when the car first starts.
4. the lid for the cup holder wont stay open.

but hey, car always starts and has never let me down!
....and still have the "3.5RL" badge!

 

My driver seat creaks now

 

Everything working as it should, emblems all accounted for
2002 RL 82K

 

I did my first oil change yesterday, only had the car a few weeks and I love it. I noticed when I was underneath, the front lower suspension, is rusty, I realize its just surface rust but why would it be just theese components and the rest of the underbody looks great. I am in southern Ontario { salty roads } and the car has pretty much always been parked in a garage. Not really worried about it I will get it oil sprayed, but any thoughts as to why the rust?

 

Well my front inner driver side door handle is broken at 170K, not completely broken yet I can still open the door. does anybody know how to fix this?

 

i think my ignition is giving out. i turn the key, u dont even hear the clicking. and if i turn back to off and on again itll start. my friend said it might be the key, cuz theres a chip, but i switched keys as well, and same problem.

 

Read the thread "starter problems":
https://acurazine.com/forums/1g-rl-1996-2004-77/starter-problem-813581/

It's likely just a slow reaction in the key recognition part of the security system. My 98 RL has done this since I got it 4 yrs ago. It has not gotten worse at all.

 

Mine does the same thing. I just ignore it. Hasn't gotten any worse, does it at least a few times a week.

 

Take off the inner panel and determine is something is disconnected or broken. For manual, go to here to download one:
http://pdftown.com/Honda-Acura-35RL-Manual.html

If you need a replacement handle, I think I have one in a box in the garage...

 

2000 RL 145000 Black on tan

1. Steering rack just replaced (original rack had huge blow out)
2. bad upper control arms ..replaced
3. runnaway wipers, replaced two arms with bushings
4. fluttering or ticking engine noise worse at low rpms and cold weather. Need to replace control box solenoids
5. SRS light from bad seat position sensor or seat belt
6. broken inside drivers door handle...replaced
7. slow moving steering column motor. Just leave it in place
8. trunk leaked. Replaced tail light gaskets, and sealed drivers side vent seal..no leaks now
9. most gauge lights burnt out. need to replace
10. most of hvac control lights burnt out
11. all doors wont stay open on a slight hill. Need to replace door armatures/stops

Everyting else works great. I love the car

 

@Dr B, i thought that fluttering/ticking noise was normal. I had it on my 97 TL and I have it on my 99 RL which I've had for 62 out of 212k miles

 

Do you still have the front driver side inner door handle? My inner handle is completely broken today, I couldn't open the door from the inside. So I have to open it from the outside

Does anyone know the part # for the front driver side inner door handle ( the chrome handle). Thx

 

1999 RL, 145k miles

-Steering column adjusts in and out, but not up and down. The motor works but it doesn't move. It's stuck in the highest position.
-SRS light constantly on. Some fault with the system.
-Climate control backlight is faded on the right side.
-Weather stripping on top of the windshield loosens at higher speeds and flaps around causing a buzzing noise sometimes. Temp fix: tuck it into rubber seal that it's next to.
-TCS light occasionally will come on. Fix is to restart the car and it works normally again. For about a year straight it was constantly on (no traction control at all) but one rainy day, I purposely spun out the tires and it seemed to fix itself and has been working since.
-With the lights on auto, if I toggle between auto and on a few times back and forth, one of the headlights will go out (either side). To fix: turn the lights off and turn them back on. It only occurs when the switch is toggled back and forth, which is usually never, unless trying to demonstrate the problem.
-Front window switch lights are out, as well as rear defroster light, and heated mirrors light.
-A/C is cold, but barely blows any air. Awful on a hot day. I'm assuming it's clogged or needs new filters or something. Need to have it checked out.

Problems that have been fixed:
-Plastic around drivers side seat controls broke off, replaced the plastic.
-Auto-dimming mirror fluid seemed to have melted or something. Either way, it looked like it had liquid inside of it, halfway filled. Had to replace the mirror.

 

02 rl metalic silver black int 122k
driver seat position is not working along with the power mirrors (i had to cut a wire b/c the mirror would swing outwards and keep clicking) i need a master auto electrician to check it and also needs a vsa pump cant find if anyone finds one let me know im on every day thanks, also needs to be painted almost done with body work

 

Yes, I finally replaced the inner door handle. It only took me 5mins to replace it with the new one. Cost $47 lol

 

SRS light came on tonight..

 

My SRS is on like a year or so, any serious problem?

 

I think the only potential downfall is that airbags won't deploy in case of an accident. Could be wrong though.

 

My fog lights don't work, my rear map lights don't work, some dash lights are out. The rear seat belts don't retract very well. I haven't checked the owners manual but I don't seem to have a low fuel warning light. Some dash bulbs are out. It's on 01 with 108K miles on it. Still, it runs smooth and is a pretty nice car considering it is 10 years old!

 

Really!? Thats not good, so how can I fix this problem?
My SRS light is wierd, it stays on for the whole day and the next day is off and sometime it just stay on for a couple of minutes.

 

Take it back to the dealership... up to 150k it should be covered under warranty.

Or if you have a friend with a code reader, find out what is wrong with it.

 

I've got a wobble when I accell, but I heard it's normal when lowered.

 

Yep welcome to the club!
My friend said the problem may be chassis rigidity, and how our cars do not cope well when lowered.
It could also be because axles.

I've had this wobble with 4 different sets of wheels, including stocks. I feel the wobble more on the driver side than the passengers side too.

 

Ditto. I've had 3 sets on there and the wheel wobble persisted. Ever since the day I lowered it. Oh well... small price to pay. I was told it was caused by the front differential and axle angle, but it's nothing problematic

 

2004 RL:

The only issue I have is with the six disc CD player. CDs stick in it and have to be released with two plastic knitting needles. Don't use it anymore. Does anybody have a fix?

Alternately, does anybody know if there is a USB adapter available? GROM markets a USB-MP3 kit for the 2005 and up RL, but not earlier models.

Canadian law requires cars be factory wired so the low beams come on with the fog lights. It's a ridiculous law, defeats the purpose of low mounted fog lights. Is there a modification that will permit them to be operated separately?

 

I have a 2001 Rl with 181k.The car is in immaculate condition.
The leather is in excellent condition as well.
I bought it with 160k on it
The ABS/Traction ctrl was on, Engine Light was on,SRS, maintenance..
I fixed everything for around $500 all parts were genuine
Then my window passenger rear regulator went out. Replaced for $110 aftermarket
Replaced front and rear pads resurfaced front & rear rotors.$150 Genuine
Recently replaced axles Front:$100 from 123 auto parts.after market
Replaced a control arm drivers side.$150 genuine.
Main relay about 1 months ago $60.
Added an USB interface.$79 from Ebay
A 15" SUB MTX powered by PPI: kept everything Factory.
The car sounds awesome.
Thats what I had done so far..
Of course all the oils changes every 3000 miles. Genuine Acura oil filter .
I wish I could post some Pics
All Tinted Windows.
Everything is in perfect working condition.
Some1 stopped my wife told her what year was it? she doesnt remember.
I kept it in great condition not a single scratch on it its a silver Color..
Waxed and clay bar it..with Mguire 1,2,3 steps
By the way how do u add Pics?

 

2004 Acura RL
Current mileage: 24,000
Only issue is the ash tray was sticking when I bought it new...they wanted to dismantle the center stack to replace it...I said leave it alone...
Left her in the sun one day its worked since then....Lesson learned. Avoid Rookie service guys.....
I had to bring it to get a smog test (a first for me and the RL). It yielded ZERO on all sectors!
Bullet Proof she is.....
To think it qualified for cash for junkers because she 8 years old....yeah right obamaiee.....Don't think so...

 

my 00 3.5RL hits 222,000 today and still running as smooth as it can be. i broke the sunglass holder otherwise everything still intact as i bought it 13 years ago, 10/1999. a few things were done this year such as:
1. timing belt job
2. cat converter.
3. EGR
4. clean manifold
5. new tires
6. alternator

Really happy with this car, i bought an 09 TL but keep this as a spare car for the family.

 

Ok, here my currently problem 96 with 181K. Two weeks ago I got a CEL for the EGR( I replaced the egr pipe last year) I just don't have time to clean out the pipe yet, planning to do this month. BTW, my RPMs goes up and down at stop light too. So today I was driving home from school and my CEL flashed like 3 or 4 time then it off for a few seconds and was on for good. Luckily, it was really close to my home so I drove home, I've heard you don't want to drive with a flashing CEL! Anyway, I got the scanner and pulled the codes and they were: p1204,p1205,p1206,P1300( all missfire related). I pop out the hood and looked around to see whats happening. And viola there was small hose connected to a sensor near the ignition coil on the passenger side that was cracked and it loosely held. I cut off the torn end and reconnected back where it belong and surprising the RPM doesn't move up and down anymore. I cleared the CEL and hopefully it doesn't come back on