When I first bought the car, this would happen maybe once a week - I would go to start the car and the key would travel the whole way but the engine would not krank. If I returned the key back and try again, started without any issue. Recently, I am noticing this at least once a day, especially when I start the car in the morning (always parked outside garage). A few days ago it took me 3-4 attempts to start the car. The battery is reasonably new and power being put out falls right within spec. I know the infrequent issue was a common RL issue, but it is not infrequent anymore. Anyone else with the problem and how did you fix it? Recently got a SRS light when it did not start a couple times. My mechanic could not reproduce as it was starting fine one time by the time I got there and has asked me to leave the car overnight with him so he can diagnose if the starter is the issue (for the SRS too). He said sometimes the SRS light can come on due to lower starter voltage(?).

Thanks.

 

i had this happen to me a couple of times....making a buzzing sound but doesn't crank. never could reproduce it when it's at the shop, so i just left it alone.

 

I guess one way to reproduce it is to leave the car outside the garage overnight and then try to start it. Happens 85% of the time then, but then there is that 15%.

 

If *nothing* seems to happen when you turn the key then it may simply be that you're doing it too fast for the security system to decide that the key is valid. Try waiting 2-3 seconds after putting the key in prior to trying to start. I've had this issue since I got my RL in 2007.

98 RL 195300 miles

 

i have a similar problem, i just was given a 2000 RL, at the time i got it it only had 98000, now it's probably got about 99500, my problem is the key turning issue when it won't even crank but mine also seems to crank longer than it should before it turns over, a friend of mine and i have tested the battery and it's holding a charge just fine, i've even cleaned all the corrosion off the battery and the problem still exists, anyone know what it may be?? i've enjoyed poking around the site recently, looking forward to learning more about RLs...

 

OK, I will try this technique for a week and report back.

 

I ran into this problem again yesterday and realized that I didn't accurately explain what I really do. Put in the key and turn it to the on position ... then wait a couple of seconds before turning to the start position.

Sorry for the confusion...

 

Ok, will do. Thanks.

 

It happened again today. So, once you insert the key, do you turn to Acc I or Acc II and wait? Thanks.

 

Bad ignition relay?

 

Go to Acc II and wait for at least 3 secs or so (may vary from car to car). It seems that at this point the key is validated and it takes a bit of time (at least with older cars and keys).

 

Has the weather gotten warmer in your area?

The slowly turning of the key is a good tip but there might be something else.


On the RL ' the fuel pump main relay is wired into the security system. Which means if that fails (like it does on most Honda's) the security system wont recognize the key and hence the no start scenerio.

Last summer I had the no start (would not crank) issue frequently. When the colder months came not one time has this happened (been about 6 months) .

I installed a new fuel main relay and will report back when it gets really hot n humid again to see if that resolved the issues.

Now my problem is no start meaning car will not crank. Like if the starter kill was active and preventing it from going.

If your car cranks, but will not start you might have a different problem.

 

The trick seems to be working the days I remember to do it, RL98. How to get a permanent fix for it? I can't believe Honda/Acura did not fix this once and for all for their flagship car.

I am afraid that one day this will cause a SRS light due to low power or something. My mechanic said it may have been the cause for my last SRS light.

 

I spent 2 decades working on complex hardware/software systems and this behavior is a typical timing issue on startup. When you turn the key, power is applied to a component (the immobilizer receiver) that must power itself up, then query the key to see if it is a recognized and allowed key. If you don't allow sufficient time for this to occur, then the security system won't allow the key to actually engage the starter. I'd guess that the design was somewhat marginal and that a slightly older battery with just a bit less voltage (remember at this point the engine is not running), and a slightly aged security component combine to make it take a second or so longer to perform the key validation. It's also possible that an aging key responses more slowly. I'd be very surprised if it interacted in anyway with the SRS system. However, both could be effected by an aging battery, or corroded battery connectors or cables.

I've been living with this minor annoyance for over 3 yrs and it has not gotten worse. I'll bet it disappears when I eventually replace the car battery.

 

I dont think my battery is the culprit here as I replaced it last year from Costco. The power output from the battery was also measured and it seems to be in the right range.

 

I'm not saying there is necessarily a 'culprit'. I was just explaining what seems to be going on. It not unusual for aging electronics to be sensitive to power.

Also to verify that electrical supply is within spec, we'd first have to know what it is supposed to be at the immobilizer receiver (which is behind the light ring surround the ignition key slot) and then take it apart enough to test it. Not worth the trouble as long as it will reliably start after a couple second wait...

 

That's true, as long as it starts fine, I am OK. Just "feels" like the starter is going and dont hope to be stranded somewhere .

 

I've owned my 2002 RL for about 6 weeks and this has happened to me a few of times...turned the key and nothing happens...doesn't turn over or anything. Try it again right after and it starts right up. I am no expert but it seems like the transponder key doesn't register sometimes. But I don't know. If I wasn't able to start the car after several attempts, I guess I would be more concerned about it.

 

The starter is failing

 

It's likely not the starter. Read my posts in this thread above. I can predictably make mine fail to start as you described (turn key and nothing at all happens) simply by doing it very quickly after inserting the key. You aren't allowing enough time for the key to respond to the security system query to decide if it is an allowable key or not.

 

RL98s recipe is working, if I remember to insert the key and move it to ACCII and wait for the green ignition key symbol to come on and go off and then start, has started every time. Sometimes I am in a hurry and dont follow, and it does the same thing everyone is reporting. The problem is relaying this info to my wife (who is always in a hurry). If there is a fix, I wouldn't mind implementing it, if it was not extremely expensive.

 

I know this is an old thread but I wanted to ask if this is a common issue cause I just purchased an 2000 rl, everything works and their is nothing wrong with it but I dont want to run into this problem just cause i use this car to go to work

 

I would say it is a common issue but nothing to fret about. My car does this more often in the cold. One day it took several attempts to get her turned over. Mine actually started doing this for a couple years. It's funny because it started out that I would turn the key and have absolutely nothing happen. Now every now and then I'll get a sudden pulse and no start. Turn the key back to position 1 then try it again. Usually always starts with a retry. Sometimes I'll have those days....

I've read that the main relay under the dash may be the culprit. Something like a solder that has gone bad and can be fixed by resoldering. I'll take a look at mine and get back with you. I've been lazy and a little uncomfortable about resoldering since this is my dd. that and I don't mind as much

 

Looks like bad luck hit me when I opened this thread haha, jk. Unfortunately for me, my dd has now failed to start and ceases to start. My issue is now a faint click of the starter and then nothing else. I've checked my main relay, and the solders seem to be looking fine and it clicks when the key is turned to the "crank" position. When I turn it to "crank" position, there is a loud click and then silence. Possible starter failure? My car sits at work overnight tonight.....

 

Dude sorry to hear that, i hope u get it running soon. I guess I'll be waiting for mine to start having the issue, I hope it never comes though.

 

I had my mechanic take a look. He kept cranking until it started up and presto! She starts up! I drove the car home and it starts up like a charm! Now, he told me that the starter will likely go bad soon.... Is this true? I'm getting it replaced today and I'm a little worried that I might get it back and it does the same thing later on. Doesn't hurt to try right? Plus it's a pain in the ass to gt to our starters.

From what I read, my issue sounds like the starter had a bad spot and it got caught at the spot and prevented it from working. The click meant that it was trying to spin but since it was at the dead spot, nothing would happen. From what I'm assuming, my mechanic kept cranking and cranking until the starter notched itself out of the spot. Is this right? I'm still learning. I'm gonna ask my mechanic when I get the car back today. Opinions please!

 

Update: Starter has been replaced. My mechanic said it was a b****. Well worth it and the new starter sounds very pretty! Occasionally still have the key still not being read but it's all good!

 

Bricecakes -

Old thread but maybe you're still around?

I'm a little confused about your description. I think you said all you got was a "click". Then you said your mechanic "kept cranking & cranking." To me cranking means the engine is turning over (spinning). How did he get it to crank? But maybe you meant cranking to be turning the key? Did he come to your car?

The shop manual certainly indicates that it is a huge effort to get at the starter. Can I ask what all this cost you?

My '96 RL had the "click" problem yesterday. It finally started after several attempts. I think the solenoid is a likely candidate. But it is right on top of the starter so virtually the same effort to get at it.

Thanks.

Bob

 

Hi! I had intermittent problems starting my TL(last year-2013). Today I removed and the starter and disassembled. Carbon dust in the motor was everywhere.
I cleaned and reassembled.
STARTS every time! HOPE this helps?

 

How big of a job is it to get at the starter?

Everything I read says it's a real bitch... dealer quoted 1100.00 for the job. My local Acura specialist replaced / rebuilt
an RL starter years ago and he continues to bitch about it today - his quote was higher than the local Acura dealer.

 

I'm allowing for the Green Key icon in the instrument array to turn itself off BEFORE turning
the ignition key all the way to start the engine... it has started every time using this method.

 

Lol

This is because the starter is tucked under the driver's side exhaust manifold and just above the motor mount. To remove you literally have to unbolt the exhaust and lift the engine to remove the motormount and take off the alternator to bring it out. It's a REAL pain.

 

It appears that the Immobilizer System was my problem, I was turning the key faster than the system could recognize it.

 

I bought my 98 RL two years ago and it’s been doing this a couple times a day (depending on how much I drive it in a day). I noticed last winter it wasn’t as bad as it is now that it’s hot, but maybe I just wasn’t driving as much 5 months ago. Anyway, it hasn’t been a real problem for the 2 years it’s been around; more of a heartattack-inducing moment when, until I turn the key again, I think I’m gonna have to put my battery on the charger for an hour. My advice is don’t waste any money on this minor annoyance until it becomes a real issue.

 

Thank god for this forum! Thought i might be crazy until i read this thread. My 01 RL does the click thing from time to time and never when someone else is with me to witness this but now i know from you guys even though i am a little late to the party.