alfadoctor

Here is a problem that I am not sure of what is going on, but I have my suspicions. The problem isn't consistent so that is what makes it more difficult to diagnose. Collective minds are wonderful things to have.

Somewhere in the range of 50-60 mph there is a vibration that appears in the driveline (can't tell if it is in the back or the front) while under a light up-throttle. It appears and goes away. I try to replicate the experience and it doesn't come. I can go days before it reappears. I can't tell if it shows up on a up hill or on the flats.

I thought about tires, but then it would have replication.

We replaced the original axles with factory rebuilts about 60,000 miles ago. If the problem was duplicatable I could say it was this part needs to be replaced. Until it has the vibration more consistently I thought I would field the problem here. I am thinking it is one of the drive axles, but which one?

I know the left lower ball joint has to be replaced as it rattles, but dang...$450 for a new upright? I don't think so unless I absolutely have to. I haven't jumped on this as the car drives just fine the way it is. Is there a connection to the vibration?

DUECEON9ER

You're better off buying the whole control arm and upper ball joint complete. I want to say changing out the lower ball joint doesn't make a difference but that was only in my case. I need to change outer tie rods, control arms, upper ball joint, and transmission mount stopper. I think I paid about $80 for the lower ball joints and another $20 to fix the cv axle boot that is parts and labor. You'd be surprised who you run into when just striking up a conversation in my case an old family friend who just so happens to have 20yrs. experience as a honda/acura tech.

alfadoctor

In the case of the lower ball joint on this RL, you cannot change the ball joint separate unless there is something I don't know. It looks like it is pressed in at the factory. "Most" ball joints are bolt in affairs but this car is so different, even the axle seals are some weird dimension you can't get at a local seal shop (73mm). Once you buy the upright you then have to put in a new bearing, so the total comes out to somewhere in the area of $450. I should crawl under the car and take a look at the transmission/engine mounts and see what condition they are in. This might be where the problem lies, if the transmission isn't in perfect alignment, the axles will not be in a straight line. Hmm?

7twenty7

I had the same problem with my previous car - 05 Accord. I was shaking between 20-30mph while accelerating. I thought it was a tranny but once I replace entire left drive axle (the old one was a rebuild - i would never use rebuilt "drive" parts), everything went back to normal.
I don't know if that's the same in your case but it's definitely worth looking at.
Good luck and keep us posted!

Jack

Ken1997TL

When did you last change the fluid in the differential?

silver3.5

i believe i have something similar. however, mine only happens at a certain RPM and speed and on inclines. the vibration happens at 1500rpms and 38-40mph. every time i get to that rpm and speed on a slight incline, the vibration happens and i can feel it through the steering wheel and floor pedal area. if i maintain that speed and rpm, the vibration will continue as well. i can duplicate this behavior every time. the moment i pass that rpm and speed or drop below it, the vibration stops. i changed the transmission fluid but it didn't help. haven't changed the differential yet or any axles or joints.

OLD_HATCH

its the axles.

silver3.5

how would you know it's the axles? i just checked mine a few weeks ago and there were no leaks or tear in the boots. everything is tight. would a bent axle cause this vibration?

alfadoctor

Its not bent, its the CV joint that is worn. It wears an indentation into the metal and creates a type of loose fitting. When it gets to a certain rpm it will vibrate. That is why we replaced the original axles with factory rebuilts about 140K? I am thinking it might be the case here, but thought I would run it by the group first. I usually rebuild the unit but in the case of this Acura because we put alot of long trip miles on it, it was best to put in decent factory rebuilts. New axles were way beyond our budget.

onebadna1nsx

If you don't mind me asking, where do you get factory rebuilt axles? I may need replacements soon.

OLD_HATCH

well everyone who has lowered their RL has run into this problem imidiatly after lowering. Change of wheel/tires do nothing for it.


I beleive they become out of balance when either slightly out of spec or change in angle. Someone else mentioned they thought it might be a slight binding in the axles from changing the axles. I do not beleive anyone has gone out and bought new axles to try and remedy this problem as most of us who have reported this problem have perfectly fine axles minus being lowered.

silver3.5

well, i bought two new cv axles from advanceauto and swapped them out for the old ones. while at it, i also changed the end links and sway bar bushings. after all said and done, the vibration is still there...same as before. nothing has changed. i also did an alignment and wheel balance/rotation as well. any other suggestions?

Ken1997TL

Differential fluid change? When did you last do it?

That fixed my issue in the TL.

OLD_HATCH

Odd. Really the only thing is reman axles are never the same as new oem.

Ken1997TL

No they arent but the ones I got for the TL have held up fine. No leaks or complaints.

OLD_HATCH

yeah but I just dont think the RL is a reman axle type of car. Ive had my share of good and bad remans.

you can always take them out and have them balanced. If you have somplace that does custom axles for race cars etc they should be able to check.

silver3.5

the cv axles that i bought from advanceauto were new, but lately one started to make a squeaky noise. thus, i jacked up the car and found that the passenger side was leaking grease everywhere. cheap GSP axles....but $55 per axle with lifetime warranty compared to $450+ for one from honda, i can't complain.

i just changed the differential oil yesterday and it seemed like the vibration is a little bit less pronounced. however, i can still feel it through the steering wheel. i guess i'll have to do the 3 or 4 step transmission flush thing instead of just drain and fill and swap out the leaking axle again. i might even try the seafoam in the gas, engine oil and vacuum hole. man, this is driving me nuts. my weekends are spent working on my car only and the wife isn't very happy about it! oh well.....

another thing i forgot to add when i swapped out the axles...the driver's side was leaking oil at the end where it connects to the tranny. i found out that it was the O-ring from the differential shaft. i bought a new O-ring from acura and since then, no oil leaks. at least i did something right.....

OLD_HATCH

If you happen to do somerthing that stops it, please post.

silver3.5

will do!

Ken1997TL

A bent or out of balance wheel would cause similar vibrations.

dtcjosh

This seems to be a real common problem. About a year ago I replaced the passenger side drive shaft to eliminate some vibration. Then just recently I replaced the driver side shaft to eliminate more vibration. While doing this work, I noticed that the shaft was extremely worn and sloppy at the transmission, and I too had oil leaking past both seals. With my Dad's help, I put a screw driver in the drivers side wheel to keep it from spinning, and put the car into first (with it jacked up obviously) and gently let the clutch out. I then became dishearten to see the shaft moving (though not spinning) up and down at the transmission, about a half inch while the passenger side spun. We concluded that something in the differential/spider gears is very very wrong, and causing the cv shafts to burn up-get so much play in them that they exaggerate driving vibration and ruin the seals. At a 135k miles I might have a badly worn version compared to you guys, but I think that the vibrating cv shafts are not the culprit, but rather failing differentials causing the cv shafts and seals to fail. I'm not sure what I'm going to do yet about it, but if I end up putting in a new differential I'll surely take pictures of my findings and share. Maybe this is not even new news to you guys.

OLD_HATCH

let the clutch out? your RL a manual?


If you take anypictures post up.

To most this vibration happens only after lowering. Happens to some with high miles as well. Only thing I can think of os that when lowering the axles get pushed into the diff slightly causeing a slight bind. Someone else had mentioned this as well, but being its only happening under hard accel its difficult to pinpoint.

dtcjosh

We'll thats embarrassing. I'm a TSX owner, and obviously shouldn't be listing that late at night. I've gone cross eyed researching this, trying to find others who have the same issues.

However TSX's are having an identical problem, so maybe they use a similar differential.

Ken1997TL

Nope, engines are completely different and arranged differently too.