97 RL won't starts then dies
#1
97 RL won't starts then dies
Hey, I'm new to the mag, and need advic/info.
Had my 97 RL for 4 yrs and been very reliable. Now it starts, then dies after 5 secs. New plugs, fuel filter, main relay, still same prob. Is there another fuel line filter, and if so, where is it? Anybody else know other possibilities?
Had my 97 RL for 4 yrs and been very reliable. Now it starts, then dies after 5 secs. New plugs, fuel filter, main relay, still same prob. Is there another fuel line filter, and if so, where is it? Anybody else know other possibilities?
#4
Hello bishopb,
Have you considered cleaning or replacing your RL's EGR valve? Test your EGR valve to see if it's properly functioning:
1. Install a tachometer on the engine, following the manufacturer's instructions.
2. Detach the engine wiring harness connector from the Idle Air Control (IAC) solenoid.
3. Disconnect and plug the vacuum supply hose from the EGR valve. (1997 RL EGR Valve diagram)
4. Start the engine, then apply the parking brake, block the rear wheels and position the transaxle in Neutral.
5. Observe and note the idle speed.
If the engine will not idle with the IAC solenoid disconnected, provide an air bypass to the engine by slightly opening the throttle plate or by creating an intake vacuum leak. Do not allow the idle speed to exceed typical idle rpm.
6. Using a hand-held vacuum pump, slowly apply 5-10 in. Hg (17-34 kPa) of vacuum to the EGR valve nipple, and compare the results with the following:
If the idle speed drops more than 100 rpm with the vacuum applied and returns to normal after the vacuum is removed, the EGR valve is OK.
If the idle speed does not drop more than 100 rpm with the vacuum applied and return to normal after the vacuum is removed, inspect the EGR valve for a blockage; clean it if a blockage is found. Replace the EGR valve if no blockage is found, or if cleaning the valve does not remedy the malfunction.
Food for thought!
Have you considered cleaning or replacing your RL's EGR valve? Test your EGR valve to see if it's properly functioning:
1. Install a tachometer on the engine, following the manufacturer's instructions.
2. Detach the engine wiring harness connector from the Idle Air Control (IAC) solenoid.
3. Disconnect and plug the vacuum supply hose from the EGR valve. (1997 RL EGR Valve diagram)
4. Start the engine, then apply the parking brake, block the rear wheels and position the transaxle in Neutral.
5. Observe and note the idle speed.
If the engine will not idle with the IAC solenoid disconnected, provide an air bypass to the engine by slightly opening the throttle plate or by creating an intake vacuum leak. Do not allow the idle speed to exceed typical idle rpm.
6. Using a hand-held vacuum pump, slowly apply 5-10 in. Hg (17-34 kPa) of vacuum to the EGR valve nipple, and compare the results with the following:
If the idle speed drops more than 100 rpm with the vacuum applied and returns to normal after the vacuum is removed, the EGR valve is OK.
If the idle speed does not drop more than 100 rpm with the vacuum applied and return to normal after the vacuum is removed, inspect the EGR valve for a blockage; clean it if a blockage is found. Replace the EGR valve if no blockage is found, or if cleaning the valve does not remedy the malfunction.
Food for thought!
#6
Brought car to shop. They found another relay in the trunk.
Only available at dealer. They charged $150.00 to fix.
The main relay under dash primes the fuel pump, the one
in the trunk picks up and keeps the pump running.
Only available at dealer. They charged $150.00 to fix.
The main relay under dash primes the fuel pump, the one
in the trunk picks up and keeps the pump running.
#7
Does your invoice (or other paper) happen to show the part number for this relay? That could be quite useful for us DIYers...
Thanks.
Thanks.
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#10
Get the used one. It's not worth $1100 to put a new ecu in a over 10yo car. Luxury or not.... Acura won't put a bad used ecu back in. They'll mak sure all the parameters work. There will be a limited warranty maybe to. Keep us posted.
#11
Finally got car out of shop. Relay in trunk(fuel pump relay) is located between carpet and front of trunk below acess hatch. Did not get P/N. I probably broke it by putting heavy stuff in trunk and not knowing relay was there. It ran in degraded condition causing a connector to overheat and a wire to the heat sink resistor(just forward of CD changer on drivers side wall of trunk) to burn up. That and a used ECU, and all the fun that goes with that. Had to have it reflashed to recognize my keys, etc. But it all came to $725.00, so it could have been worse.
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