97 RL won't starts then dies

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Old 08-17-2011 | 08:58 AM
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bishopb's Avatar
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Question 97 RL won't starts then dies

Hey, I'm new to the mag, and need advic/info.
Had my 97 RL for 4 yrs and been very reliable. Now it starts, then dies after 5 secs. New plugs, fuel filter, main relay, still same prob. Is there another fuel line filter, and if so, where is it? Anybody else know other possibilities?
Old 08-17-2011 | 03:47 PM
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Try running a diagnostic scan, pull the codes you might fnd whats giving you the problem. Also MAF (Mass Air Flow)sensors can act screwy to point of stalling a vehicle
Old 08-18-2011 | 10:26 AM
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Thanks for that. Does anyone know if there is an android app that lets you read OBD codes?
Old 08-19-2011 | 01:18 PM
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Hello bishopb,

Have you considered cleaning or replacing your RL's EGR valve? Test your EGR valve to see if it's properly functioning:

1. Install a tachometer on the engine, following the manufacturer's instructions.
2. Detach the engine wiring harness connector from the Idle Air Control (IAC) solenoid.
3. Disconnect and plug the vacuum supply hose from the EGR valve. (1997 RL EGR Valve diagram)
4. Start the engine, then apply the parking brake, block the rear wheels and position the transaxle in Neutral.
5. Observe and note the idle speed.

If the engine will not idle with the IAC solenoid disconnected, provide an air bypass to the engine by slightly opening the throttle plate or by creating an intake vacuum leak. Do not allow the idle speed to exceed typical idle rpm.

6. Using a hand-held vacuum pump, slowly apply 5-10 in. Hg (17-34 kPa) of vacuum to the EGR valve nipple, and compare the results with the following:

If the idle speed drops more than 100 rpm with the vacuum applied and returns to normal after the vacuum is removed, the EGR valve is OK.

If the idle speed does not drop more than 100 rpm with the vacuum applied and return to normal after the vacuum is removed, inspect the EGR valve for a blockage; clean it if a blockage is found. Replace the EGR valve if no blockage is found, or if cleaning the valve does not remedy the malfunction.

Food for thought!
Old 08-22-2011 | 08:16 AM
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Thanks, I'll check that.
Old 08-23-2011 | 04:38 PM
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Brought car to shop. They found another relay in the trunk.
Only available at dealer. They charged $150.00 to fix.
The main relay under dash primes the fuel pump, the one
in the trunk picks up and keeps the pump running.
Old 08-24-2011 | 08:04 AM
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Does your invoice (or other paper) happen to show the part number for this relay? That could be quite useful for us DIYers...

Thanks.

Originally Posted by bishopb
Brought car to shop. They found another relay in the trunk.
Only available at dealer. They charged $150.00 to fix.
The main relay under dash primes the fuel pump, the one
in the trunk picks up and keeps the pump running.
Old 08-25-2011 | 01:17 PM
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I will get numbers and more detail when techs are finished. They found another problem, missing ground to fuel pump relay, and are checking whats up with that. I will post results.
Old 08-29-2011 | 08:37 AM
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Now the mech says computer bad. $1,100.00 for new. $250.00 for used. Anybody have any luck with used computers? I might try to get it running and trade up to something a little newer.
Old 08-29-2011 | 09:21 AM
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Originally Posted by bishopb
Now the mech says computer bad. $1,100.00 for new. $250.00 for used. Anybody have any luck with used computers? I might try to get it running and trade up to something a little newer.
Get the used one. It's not worth $1100 to put a new ecu in a over 10yo car. Luxury or not.... Acura won't put a bad used ecu back in. They'll mak sure all the parameters work. There will be a limited warranty maybe to. Keep us posted.
Old 09-23-2011 | 01:06 PM
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Finally got car out of shop. Relay in trunk(fuel pump relay) is located between carpet and front of trunk below acess hatch. Did not get P/N. I probably broke it by putting heavy stuff in trunk and not knowing relay was there. It ran in degraded condition causing a connector to overheat and a wire to the heat sink resistor(just forward of CD changer on drivers side wall of trunk) to burn up. That and a used ECU, and all the fun that goes with that. Had to have it reflashed to recognize my keys, etc. But it all came to $725.00, so it could have been worse.
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