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My gf's RDX is at 88000 miles and we were wondering at what mileage the rest of you guys changed out your struts? Did you buy OEM or buy aftermarket (KYB, Koni) etc?
Most OEM struts are only "good" for about 45-50k. Some, like my Mazda struts, start giving "average-poor" performance around 30k. At this time I think KYB is the manufacture offering a OEM replacement. Have an independent shop replace them with stock/OEM units.
I called Acura today and they told me struts don't need to be replaced until there is something wrong with them...They should "last" lifetime of the car. What a bunch of shit!
Technically unless they are squeaking and leaking they are fine. However, you might have noticed they just don't feel as firm as they used to. The 2007 RDX had the firmest struts of the 1G version. But when I had a 2011 loaner last year I couldn't help but notice how much stiffer the suspension was. Mine are shot.
Take it to an independent shop, the dealer is always higher.
My question is: Can you get the 07 "firmer" shocks or only the revised 08-12 ones. I tried looking for a difference in the part numbers but they look the same. I'm almost at 75K and I bet even a brand new set of the softer 08-12 ones would be firmer over what i have now.
You might want to consider some coilovers before replacing the shocks/struts. I'm seeing KYB's for $640 before coupon or any deals and the Megan's are $850 on ebay.
Might as well get a adjustable height/dampening suspension for a little extra.
My question is: Can you get the 07 "firmer" shocks or only the revised 08-12 ones. I tried looking for a difference in the part numbers but they look the same.
Original 2007 front strut: Left 51602-STK-A050, Right 51601-STK-A050
Current 2008+ front strut: Left 51602-STK-A07, Right 51601-STK-A07
These part numbers are for the strut assembly, including the bearing and upper mount, which are wear items and definitely need replaced. (You are not likely to find the older parts available from any Honda parts supplier.)
thanks for info. do the wheel bearings need to be replaced also?
No sir, no need to replace bearings.
I got the front struts on eBay $200 for both front OEM Acura/Honda parts. One even had a new OEM spring installed - not that i needed it... I then ordered a pair of KYB rear shocks for around $60 also on eBay. PLZ DONT SPEND THE $1300
New to this forum but would appreciate some advice. 2007 RDX AWD 100k+ miles. Goodyear repair center saying i need new front struts, aka tires not wearing evenly on both sides. No other noises or symptoms that are appreciable to me right now. Could this be true or should I research other causes like maybe alignment?
New to this forum but would appreciate some advice. 2007 RDX AWD 100k+ miles. Goodyear repair center saying i need new front struts, aka tires not wearing evenly on both sides. No other noises or symptoms that are appreciable to me right now. Could this be true or should I research other causes like maybe alignment?
When I had uneven tire wear, it was caused by worn suspension part(s) like an upper control arm or needing a camber kit. I replaced my struts/shocks on my 08 RDX at around 100k and it was because of feeling a rough ride over bumps/dips/rail road tracks. I didn't have uneven tire wear.
If you're over 100k it's not a bad idea to look into replacement anyway, and then get an alignment after. But you can get a 2nd opinion at a tire and/or alignment shop and they should be able to see what type of abnormal wear you're experiencing and confirm if it's strut or alignment.
Most people will frown upon aftermarket non-OE. I went cheap because my OE KYB left drivers side was blown and leaking/rattling like crazy! I got those FCS Struts from RockAuto.com and have had them on for a good 16k so far and they are SOLID for the price. When I bought them they were $79.97 each. These are a great choice if you are looking for well made all round struts for a daily driver.
No sir, no need to replace bearings.
I got the front struts on eBay $200 for both front OEM Acura/Honda parts. One even had a new OEM spring installed - not that i needed it... I then ordered a pair of KYB rear shocks for around $60 also on eBay. PLZ DONT SPEND THE $1300
I just did a 4 wheel suspension replacement on my 2008 last thursday. I also installed the ATLP/ Eibach lowing springs. The car is so much better its almost unbelievable. I made a thread about it... in the wrong section. Stupid me... here is the link >>>> https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=890616
I refresh the topic.
Have you encountered the case that after installing the rear shock absorbers (KYB) it turned out to be "softer" than OEM?
I have recently replaced rear shock absorbers with KYB (recommended as "aftermarketed"). After loading, the car sat down. Is this normal with KYB?
I am wondering now whether to buy new Honda shock absorbers and throw KYB into the trash...
See the picture below: KYB rear shock absorbers - the car sat down.
The shocks won't affect the resting height of your car - that's all spring. The shock just helps to control the movement of the spring as you go over bumps. On the other hand, you may have worn out springs. Do you often carry a lot of weight in the back? If so, that constant compression of the spring can cause it to start to sag over time.
The shocks won't affect the resting height of your car - that's all spring. The shock just helps to control the movement of the spring as you go over bumps. On the other hand, you may have worn out springs. Do you often carry a lot of weight in the back? If so, that constant compression of the spring can cause it to start to sag over time.
I know the mechanics of shock absorbers and springs. I suspected spring wear but in the previous (oem factory) configuration everything was fine. The back of the car did not sit as much as now at KYB. The springs are the same (oem) . That's why I suspect the new shock absorbers are too soft and subject to weight. I don't carry heavy loads often. Previously, the oem honda/acura suspension did not behave as KYB. Maybe I will try with new oem springs... This is cheapest way to find solution.
I was able to buy OEM rear Honda shock absorbers.
After the exchange I did a KYB vs OEM comparison.
There is practically no difference in height between KYB and OEM.
Soon I will check how it sits under high load.
I was able to buy OEM rear Honda shock absorbers.
After the exchange I did a KYB vs OEM comparison.
There is practically no difference in height between KYB and OEM.
Soon I will check how it sits under high load.
Hi,
just curious what it looked like under high load ,
BTW Some shock absorbers are nitrogen charged , and DO add just a little more carrying capacity ,
KYB gas-a-justs are charged with 280 psi nitrogen
What that actually translates into extra load capacity is up for debate
But I did use them on an old 1977 toyota truck and was impressed how much they helped
4 months have passed since the shock absorbers were replaced by OEM and I noticed significant differences in suspension hardness.
KYB were "dropped" under load, OEMs are harder - it doesn't matter if the car is empty or loaded. However, OEM shock absorbers are in my opinion better quality than KYB.
Just curious , so ASSUMING , the front suspension of the CRV and the RDX are the same. I say this as some manufacturers say there front struts fit BOTH vehicles.
KYB as well as some others , BUT Bilstein ONLY offers front struts for the CRV , not for the RDX . Any idea's why ????
Anyone done research in this area ?
I'm looking for the best front struts I can buy at a reasonable cost .
I don't want to lower it , I don't want some off brand that doesn't have a track record.
Iv'e had good luck with bilstein , ok luck with KYB ,
Anybody ever checked the dampening and rebound rates on the stock shocks ?
...OEM shock absorbers are in my opinion better quality than KYB.
I've been meaning to ask, in the above sentence do you mean better build quality and/or lifespan, or is it a difference in ride quality?
@oldmanram: "BUT Bilstein ONLY offers front struts for the CRV , not for the RDX . Any idea's why ?" There's only ever one answer to that question, not enough projected sales to cover the cost. As for why BS seem to think one part number wouldn't cover both vehicles it may have to do with damping curves or something mundane like vehicle-specific bracketry.. Call them and see if they can tell you, it would be interesting to know for sure.
They do look similar, at least comparing a 2010 CRV front to the 2011 RDX awd tech, but the assembly pns are different as are those of the springs. Interestingly, the part costs on the Acura strut assembly and spring are drastically lower than the Honda units (!).
Depends on what you call reasonable, but I got OEM replacements from the dealer near me. Full front strut assemblies (strut, spring, mount, etc) for $214 each. It was only a few bucks more than buying all the parts separately except the spring. To me it was a no-brainer to save a ton of time and get new springs on top of the struts. Only took an hour for me to replace both fronts.
Hey , Has anybody tried putting overload donuts on the rear springs ?????
I did it with my 2001 QX4/pathfinder , and they worked really good , the QX4 had the same soft rear spring problem , loaded for skiing with 5 people , BUT I installed those old school donuts and they worked well , no more bottoming out going up the Mountain ...........................
Just a thought ...
Happy Trails everyone
Stay safe !!!
Just got quoted $2300 cdn plus tax ($1670 US based on today's conversion) for front struts/rear shocks/wheel alignment on my 2008 Acura RDX
Holy cow. This is from my local dealer that I thought would have given me a better price since I have done the majority of my service work there since I purchased my RDX.
I already know I will be shopping elsewhere (fortunately there is another Acura dealer in my city and another one 2 hours away (I like to drive).
I know they are going by their own service tech book of "recommended hours of work" and I think this dealership have outsourced their mechanics, calling them whenever work is available.
Since OEMs appear to be the consensus for replacement, I have no issues paying more, but his much difference just steered me away from getting any more service work from this stealership.
That is nuts. I purchased OEM strut assemblies and OEM rear shocks from a dealership for $650. So...$1000 in labor for a 3-4 hour book job? (assuming 1 hour per strut, 1/2 - 1 hour per shock). You can do this job yourself as well - just need jack stands and a socket set (and a bit of muscle), but you may also look to any local Honda/Acura shops to avoid paying the dealer's premium. They should also use OEM parts.
That is nuts. I purchased OEM strut assemblies and OEM rear shocks from a dealership for $650. So...$1000 in labor for a 3-4 hour book job? (assuming 1 hour per strut, 1/2 - 1 hour per shock). You can do this job yourself as well - just need jack stands and a socket set (and a bit of muscle), but you may also look to any local Honda/Acura shops to avoid paying the dealer's premium. They should also use OEM parts.
Totally...what is probably more disappointing as well as they did not check how much service work i have paid at this original dealer of mine...Geez...so much for customer service and loyalty...
02-19-2012, 08:33 PM
