Squeezing Squealing Noise at Startup
#1
5th Gear
Thread Starter
Squeezing Squealing Noise at Startup
Hi All,
Thanks for advance for any help/advice you can give me on the following strange thing.
Upon startup, I notice a squeezing squealing noise that lasts for about 1 - 2 seconds tops, inside the cabin - I can't tell exactly where it's coming from, I first thought it was the seat, but then it sounded more like it was coming from the steering column.
Again, thanks in advance for any info you can give me
Cheers
Thanks for advance for any help/advice you can give me on the following strange thing.
Upon startup, I notice a squeezing squealing noise that lasts for about 1 - 2 seconds tops, inside the cabin - I can't tell exactly where it's coming from, I first thought it was the seat, but then it sounded more like it was coming from the steering column.
Again, thanks in advance for any info you can give me
Cheers
#2
The symbol with the exclamation mark inside the yellow caution sign that you have used to start your thread is primarily used to designate a “bad thread” to moderators.
The squealing you are referring to may actually be coming from inside the engine compartment. Take the vehicle to a qualified mechanic and have the issue properly diagnosed.
The squealing you are referring to may actually be coming from inside the engine compartment. Take the vehicle to a qualified mechanic and have the issue properly diagnosed.
The following users liked this post:
changomo (06-29-2011)
#3
StayAtHomeDad
Hi All,
Thanks for advance for any help/advice you can give me on the following strange thing.
Upon startup, I notice a squeezing squealing noise that lasts for about 1 - 2 seconds tops, inside the cabin - I can't tell exactly where it's coming from, I first thought it was the seat, but then it sounded more like it was coming from the steering column.
Again, thanks in advance for any info you can give me
Cheers
Thanks for advance for any help/advice you can give me on the following strange thing.
Upon startup, I notice a squeezing squealing noise that lasts for about 1 - 2 seconds tops, inside the cabin - I can't tell exactly where it's coming from, I first thought it was the seat, but then it sounded more like it was coming from the steering column.
Again, thanks in advance for any info you can give me
Cheers
The following 2 users liked this post by wrestrepo:
changomo (06-29-2011),
TruckerBomb (06-17-2011)
#4
My wife's 07 RDX started to do this like 10 days ago, when the whether got warm. It usually happens when she starts the car, the noise sounds like a belt squealing something, and lasts for about half second, sometimes it could also happen under other situations, when that happens, the noise is not as loud, and lasts shorter.
The following users liked this post:
changomo (06-29-2011)
#5
Carbon Bronze Pearl 2008
Hi All,
Thanks for advance for any help/advice you can give me on the following strange thing.
Upon startup, I notice a squeezing squealing noise that lasts for about 1 - 2 seconds tops, inside the cabin - I can't tell exactly where it's coming from, I first thought it was the seat, but then it sounded more like it was coming from the steering column.
Again, thanks in advance for any info you can give me
Cheers
Thanks for advance for any help/advice you can give me on the following strange thing.
Upon startup, I notice a squeezing squealing noise that lasts for about 1 - 2 seconds tops, inside the cabin - I can't tell exactly where it's coming from, I first thought it was the seat, but then it sounded more like it was coming from the steering column.
Again, thanks in advance for any info you can give me
Cheers
The following users liked this post:
changomo (06-29-2011)
#6
2008 Acura RDX
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Jamaica W.I.
Age: 61
Posts: 1,227
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I had a noise similar to what you describe in my 2007, it happened at start-up and occasional (rarely) after driving for a while after a drastic temp change (read GPS climate control). It was caused by the AC blend door that needed to be lubricated. After they did that the sound went away....with the very vague description of your sound this is all I got.
The following users liked this post:
changomo (06-29-2011)
Trending Topics
#8
I was on an MDX forum and the consensus is that it is a dirty starter motor. There are threads showing how to clean the starter. Squealing sound when you start up first thing...doesn't squeal during subsequent starts?
The following users liked this post:
changomo (06-29-2011)
#9
I had a noise similar to what you describe in my 2007, it happened at start-up and occasional (rarely) after driving for a while after a drastic temp change (read GPS climate control). It was caused by the AC blend door that needed to be lubricated. After they did that the sound went away....with the very vague description of your sound this is all I got.
I'd say case closed?
The following users liked this post:
changomo (06-29-2011)
#10
5th Gear
Thread Starter
Hi, I know it's been a while since my first post, I've been super busy and didn't get a chance to take a look at the responses....I still have the problem, and I wanted to thank everybody so much for all the responses!!!
Mr Marco: Sorry for my exclamation mark!! I took it the dealer and they wanted to charge $220
I think everybody is right that it's the "A/C Blend Door" does anybody have a link on how I can do this myself?
Mr Marco: Sorry for my exclamation mark!! I took it the dealer and they wanted to charge $220
I think everybody is right that it's the "A/C Blend Door" does anybody have a link on how I can do this myself?
#11
The dealer fixed ours under warranty. They said it's AC blend door, initially they asked whether I want to have the dashboard taken apart, and later they told me they didn't have to. Not sure how they did it, but the noise is gone.
#12
Intermediate
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Bucharest, Romania
Age: 41
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Anybody has a picture, tutorial on what has to be lubricated?
in my country mechanics don't have the experience on Acura's, so I have to show them what to do
in my country mechanics don't have the experience on Acura's, so I have to show them what to do
#13
Intermediate
My 2009 RDX makes a minor steering column noise that sounds like it is adjusting. People on this site have commented on this noise--to me it sounds so minor--I just ignore it
#14
StayAtHomeDad
I would advise you to buy a repair/service manual, so you can show them pictures and tell them how to diagnose and troubleshoot problems
#15
Intermediate
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Bucharest, Romania
Age: 41
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thx for the advice but I would still prefer a picture of the hw piece that has to be lubricated. a service manual would be a little to much at this point for me..
#16
Hey guys. New to the forum, but defiantly not to automotive mechanics of any kind.
I just fixed this problem on my Mother's RDX. It is a sound caused from poor lubrication on the blend door actuator pin that moves the blend door, as well as a cable that adjusts the passenger's side blend door. Here's how to SEE problem for yourself, followed by how to quickly and easily fix it yourself.
Grab your key and a flashlight, and position yourself outside the driver's side of the vehicle in a squatting position so you can stick your head in the footwell to clearly see the accelerator pedal. It helps to move the seat in the rearmost position.
Take a peek under the dash, directly to the right of the accelerator pedal and find the black actuator that has a harness plugging into the top. Keep your eye and flashlight on this as you insert the key and start the vehicle. PLEASE NOTE you will have to start the vehicle, as the climate control system only activates the blend door when the heater core sensor detects coolant flow.
If the blend door doesn't move at startup, adjust the temperature to each limit (max heat and max cool) while keeping an eye on the actuator. As you increase or decrease the temperature, you will see the blend door move respectively and may even see it "catch" slightly at certain positions.
If you must be convinced this is the origin of the noise, place your finger on the white plastic disc with a groove in it and you can feel it vibrating.
While you're under there, take note of the cable coming out of the Firewall that connects to another plastic disc towards the top of the actuator. Also get an eye on the two nuts that hold the throttle pedal assembly on. There is on up top and one on the lower right side.
Now turn off the vehicle and climb out to stretch your neck and back.
NOW TO FIX IT!
Grab a #2 Phillips, a 12mm socket, a 6 inch extension, and a swivel (if you have one. No biggie if you don't). White lithium grease works best, but any kind of grease will do. I used All-Purpose high temp grease from a tub.
Crawl back under the dash and remove the two 12mm nuts that hold the throttle pedal assembly onto the firewall. You can swing it aside with the wire harness still attached and put it behind the steering shaft to keep it out of the way.
Now remove the three Philips screws that hold the actuator and bracket on. There are two that go through the black plastic at the lower left and left side, and one that hold a metal bracket at the top right of the actuator.
Pull the actuator out, away from the center console to reveal the two white grooved discs mentioned earlier. You might see evidence of white grease from the factory, but I guarantee there won't be enough!
Fll the grove in the green plastic part of the actuator about half-full with grease. Then fill the groove of the white plastic disc halfway with grease. The groove on the green part moves a pin of the white lever that is attached to a cable. Dan a bit of grease on both of the pins of this piece to lubricate where the cable attaches and the pin that inserts into the green part of the actuator.
Reassemble the actuator and start the car again to make sure you've fixed the problem before you reassemble the throttle pedal.
Now you can take pride in knowing you fixed a problem that Acura wants $230 to fix, and learned a little bit about blend doors and electronic throttle pedals!
I just fixed this problem on my Mother's RDX. It is a sound caused from poor lubrication on the blend door actuator pin that moves the blend door, as well as a cable that adjusts the passenger's side blend door. Here's how to SEE problem for yourself, followed by how to quickly and easily fix it yourself.
Grab your key and a flashlight, and position yourself outside the driver's side of the vehicle in a squatting position so you can stick your head in the footwell to clearly see the accelerator pedal. It helps to move the seat in the rearmost position.
Take a peek under the dash, directly to the right of the accelerator pedal and find the black actuator that has a harness plugging into the top. Keep your eye and flashlight on this as you insert the key and start the vehicle. PLEASE NOTE you will have to start the vehicle, as the climate control system only activates the blend door when the heater core sensor detects coolant flow.
If the blend door doesn't move at startup, adjust the temperature to each limit (max heat and max cool) while keeping an eye on the actuator. As you increase or decrease the temperature, you will see the blend door move respectively and may even see it "catch" slightly at certain positions.
If you must be convinced this is the origin of the noise, place your finger on the white plastic disc with a groove in it and you can feel it vibrating.
While you're under there, take note of the cable coming out of the Firewall that connects to another plastic disc towards the top of the actuator. Also get an eye on the two nuts that hold the throttle pedal assembly on. There is on up top and one on the lower right side.
Now turn off the vehicle and climb out to stretch your neck and back.
NOW TO FIX IT!
Grab a #2 Phillips, a 12mm socket, a 6 inch extension, and a swivel (if you have one. No biggie if you don't). White lithium grease works best, but any kind of grease will do. I used All-Purpose high temp grease from a tub.
Crawl back under the dash and remove the two 12mm nuts that hold the throttle pedal assembly onto the firewall. You can swing it aside with the wire harness still attached and put it behind the steering shaft to keep it out of the way.
Now remove the three Philips screws that hold the actuator and bracket on. There are two that go through the black plastic at the lower left and left side, and one that hold a metal bracket at the top right of the actuator.
Pull the actuator out, away from the center console to reveal the two white grooved discs mentioned earlier. You might see evidence of white grease from the factory, but I guarantee there won't be enough!
Fll the grove in the green plastic part of the actuator about half-full with grease. Then fill the groove of the white plastic disc halfway with grease. The groove on the green part moves a pin of the white lever that is attached to a cable. Dan a bit of grease on both of the pins of this piece to lubricate where the cable attaches and the pin that inserts into the green part of the actuator.
Reassemble the actuator and start the car again to make sure you've fixed the problem before you reassemble the throttle pedal.
Now you can take pride in knowing you fixed a problem that Acura wants $230 to fix, and learned a little bit about blend doors and electronic throttle pedals!
#20
10th Gear
Brilliant! I knew the noise was from a blend door, but had been putting off further investigation and fixing. I assumed it was the door itself inside the housing which would be a huge job. NeedForSpeed was right. Simply the plastic linkage behind the blend door motor was the culprit. 10 minute fix if you have decent tools and mechanical skills!
Couple tips:
1. Do watch the motion of the linkage by running the car and adjusting the temp before disassembly. That way you'll know what it is supposed to do after you put it all back together. There are a couple pins that have to be in the right slots when putting back together, not too difficult, but better to understand by observing first.
2. I used Permatex white lithium grease from a small tube. Not super critical what you use, but the tube with small nozzle on it made it easier to apply in the grooves without having it slop all over the place.
Couple tips:
1. Do watch the motion of the linkage by running the car and adjusting the temp before disassembly. That way you'll know what it is supposed to do after you put it all back together. There are a couple pins that have to be in the right slots when putting back together, not too difficult, but better to understand by observing first.
2. I used Permatex white lithium grease from a small tube. Not super critical what you use, but the tube with small nozzle on it made it easier to apply in the grooves without having it slop all over the place.
#21
Honda recommends a specific Dow Corning synthetic grease which is made for plastic/ metal combinations as used in HVAC systems. Other synthetic plastic compatible greases may be used.
THIS IS A WARRANTY FIX - Many other threads on this topic, and Acura issued a TSB. Complete repair described here w/ pics:
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?p=13884378#post13884378
Last edited by dcmodels; 09-08-2013 at 03:13 AM.
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