For those of you who remember, I Initially encountered this problem only when my weapon R intake was installed, i was told to shorten the intake roughly 1.5 inches from the turbo end; and the Pop / backfire sound should stop.

Unfortunately that was not the case and now I hear the POPING, Jerking, Backfire sound coming from the engine bay, but with the Stock OEM Intake setup.. although the sounds is muffled.

Ill post a Vid of the POP sound

 

Video was taken to capture the POP sound in-between 1st and 2nd gear @ 50- 70% Throttle (never @ 100% throttle, or low throttle) The weapon R intake was Installed during this video, but the problem continues with OEM intake.

Also after about 300 miles with the intake installed the Sh-AWD light and Check Emissions light comes on. They will wipe with a battery disconnect, but will re-appear.

I have a hunch that the Pop could be due to the diverter valve failing under increased back pressure.

 

You mean the check engine light?

With the cel or mil lit, connect and read a code scanner. It won't tell you what the exact problem, but what system is malfunctioning.

 

No it says "Check Emissions System" on the cluster display

 

Anyone have any small pieces of insight on this issue?

Any Ideas?

 

Have you scanned for codes?

 

No because i removed the intake and cleared the codes. Im skeptical to re install the intake because the RDX is my DD.

 

Scan for codes. Even if the mil is not set you may still have pending codes. For best results never clear them until you log all of them.

 

Given the timing, could be a BOV issue.

 

+1
I think it might be related to the BPV.
How many miles and what mods do you have? Any exhaust/custom BPV work?

I get backfires between 1st and 2nd ever since I installed my downpipe. I'm suspecting that mine is really backfiring (not afterfiring) because I see soot in the intake manifold.

 

I just hit 50K, my car is 100% stock since I removed the Weapon R intake.

I think my car is still covered for 70,0000miles power-train…

 

power-train warrantee = Free BPV ??

 

I get backfiring between the first and second shift also. I think its the bpv leaking but who knows. Mine seemed to start after the hondata reflash

 

I assume this is not normal, and couldn't be good for our engines?

Do you throw codes with the Hondata and intake setup?

 

I wonder if it could be the BPV or the Air Bypass Valve solenoid which is number 26 on the diagram.

 

dude I hope you find the fix for this because you been having this issue for a while now. Plus if your like me you must be going crazy. I can't stand having any issue with my vehicles. GL hope you find a solution.

 

Come to think of it, I started getting a "hiccup" between 1st and 2nd after the Hondata. There would be a loud click and the car would jerk. It usually happens at WOT and shifting at high RPM.

When I had the turbosmart BPV, it happened all the time and threw CEL/SHAWD lights so I uninstalled that. Adjusting the spring to hard seemed to help a bit with throwing codes.

My after/backfiring issue was after I got the downpipe installed, which sound like a loud pop from the tailpipe (sometimes I think it happes in the intake manifold). Usually happens between 1st and 2nd too.

Hopefully someone with more experience can chime in so we can address this issue.

 

Check for any leaks or install error on the intake post MAF, i've seen this happen on other boosted cars with MAF's. Also check for any vacuum leaks around the bypass valve, it sounds some what like compressor surge.

 

No codes

 

I am thinking about trying to bypass the solenoid and just run the vac line straight to the bpv

 

I had this issue with my weapon R intake, i emailed weapon R and they sent me a new intake, apparently the reason why it causes the check engine light is because the diameter of the pipping around the MAF sensor is smaller than the rest of the pipe. the new pipe they sent me was, i believe 3 inches in diameter and did not get smaller around the MAF. After installing the new intake they sent me free of charge i no longer got any check engine lights.

I do not think i never had this issue with the stock setup though.

 

Let us know how its works, possibly some pics also.

Although it should be pretty straight forward...

 

Compressor surge happens at WOT and you would hear what sounds like a squirrel getting rapped. Surge happens when the turbo is feeding too much boost that the engine can not digest. The car would also buck a lil bit.


For the OP, I think your sound could be the diverter valve releasing like a typical blow off valve would sound. Or your ecu is being leaned out by the intake and its trying to adjust by throwing it rich for a second. In any case, the intake is pretty useless. Most of the time in a MAF metered setup like this, the maf was tuned from the factory for the stock intakes flow pattern. Since you changed it, it still thinks the stock intake is on and is always trying to adjust.

I would consider throwing your stock intake back on and call it good.

 

I had this same issue when I installed my weapon R intake. It had a 2.5" diameter where the MAF sensor is. I called them and they sent me a 3" diameter free of charge and a free return postage for me to send back the 2.5" one. No issues since, 50k plus miles 2008

 

I have had the intake uninstalled, but I still get the popping sound in between some gears; its sounds like a gerbil being choked.

Looking at the bypass / charge-pipe diagram… just adds more confusion.

 

Do you buy gas at the same station all the time? Dealer told me it might be a gas problem. I had the same problem as you and the dealer wanted to drain the fuel and check the quality but to save some money just told me to run it low and refill it with fuel from a different station....I usually fill up at cheaper stations with 93, now I fill up with BP 93 and my popping has gone away. But now I'm having problems just cruising, I get a stuttering/hesistation when I'm steady on the accelerator, I'm gonna try some injector cleaner/octane booster to see if it helps.

 

I do… Same Mobil, same pump, Same octane (93)

I apprciate the insight!

 

I changed the gas station up, still same issue.

I think I might be on to something tho…. Lately my battery has been very low, even while the car is running - although the alternator is charging it. I have been avoiding buying a new one until today, when my car started acting up while idling. (sh-awd light, very rough transitions between Drive & Reverse, weird idle, Slow windows, slow wipers) All stopped right when I hooked the battery up to a charger and then let the car idle with it charging.

With the above symptoms being attributed to the battery being toast, could the POP / Jerking in-between gear shifts be triggered from improper detonation / or insufficient ignition of the Air & Fuel..?

*This issue happened even more-so when I added the WeaponR intake. I assume the intake increased the airflow leaning out the mixture thus more spark would be needed with the intake installed.

 

* FIXED. Had to Gap my spark plugs. I changed my plugs at 54,000 miles with denso "pre gaped OEM" replacements, needless to say they were NOT pre gaped, and were nearly double the OEM spec. After checking everything in my power, I had an epiphany to check the gap, glad I did.

 

^Its always the stupid things that you don't even think about

 

I get an occasional pop/backfire; (my setup is hondata reflash, weapon r 3" intake and DP) Please share with us to proper spark plug gapping.