P2263 Turbo problems
#441
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josiahmgillespie (01-26-2021)
#443
I emailed Blouch and asked if they would be interested in doing it while upgrading, haven't heard back yet. I'll follow up on it next week.
I'd even be ok with them using the idea for others. Stopping the wear issue would be a great upgrade.
BTW
I'd even be ok with them using the idea for others. Stopping the wear issue would be a great upgrade.
BTW
Last edited by DaIll1; 02-05-2021 at 10:51 PM.
#444
P2263 – Replaced Turbo with OEM Rebuilt Turbo
2011 RDX with 180,000 and I received the P2263 code. All signs led to the turbo and with high mileage, I went ahead and replaced it with an OEM rebuilt turbo. A very good friend/Honda Tech performed the job on the side. Unfortunately, the code came back a week later. Has anyone had any issues with rebuilt turbos in this situation?
The vehicle runs great with no performance issues. Normal around town driving is fine, but when we drive the vehicle on longer trips 20-30 minutes and it's hot the code will reappear. We've performed DTC P2263 troubleshooting and everything appears to good.
The vehicle runs great with no performance issues. Normal around town driving is fine, but when we drive the vehicle on longer trips 20-30 minutes and it's hot the code will reappear. We've performed DTC P2263 troubleshooting and everything appears to good.
#445
Ouch. We have a 2008 with 175K on it and was planning on getting the turbo rebuilt. Your experience is making me rethink that path.
I'm curious. Did you replace all hose/vac lines and sensors as part of the work?
I'm curious. Did you replace all hose/vac lines and sensors as part of the work?
#446
We did not replace any hoses or vac lines. All appeared to be in good shape. We are going to smoke test what we can this week. Hopefully, we'll find something. The old turbo definitely had the worn actuator bolt and a loud rattle when let off the accelerator. So I feel it turbo definitely needed to be replaced.
My buddy talked to our local Acura dealership about this and they said it could be an issue with using a rebuilt turbo. I don't like this answer.
My buddy talked to our local Acura dealership about this and they said it could be an issue with using a rebuilt turbo. I don't like this answer.
#447
We did not replace any hoses or vac lines. All appeared to be in good shape. We are going to smoke test what we can this week. Hopefully, we'll find something. The old turbo definitely had the worn actuator bolt and a loud rattle when let off the accelerator. So I feel it turbo definitely needed to be replaced.
My buddy talked to our local Acura dealership about this and they said it could be an issue with using a rebuilt turbo. I don't like this answer.
My buddy talked to our local Acura dealership about this and they said it could be an issue with using a rebuilt turbo. I don't like this answer.
#449
Sigh... you are absolutely right.
I discovered this fact on my own after talking to the very helpful guys at Blouch - he says for RDX, there are only two options:
So... in that case, I'm going to buy an OEM for $2.4K ( ) from buyautoparts.com (https://www.buyautoparts.com/1/1/114...900rwca01.html).
Has anybody had any experience buying parts from buyautoparts.com? BBB gives them an A+ rating but there's a slew of negative reviews on them (https://www.bbb.org/sdoc/business-re...ection=reviews)
I discovered this fact on my own after talking to the very helpful guys at Blouch - he says for RDX, there are only two options:
- 1. send them your own turbo to be rebuilt and upgraded (this requires that your turbo be in working shape which doesn't apply to me)
- 2. buy OEM
So... in that case, I'm going to buy an OEM for $2.4K ( ) from buyautoparts.com (https://www.buyautoparts.com/1/1/114...900rwca01.html).
Has anybody had any experience buying parts from buyautoparts.com? BBB gives them an A+ rating but there's a slew of negative reviews on them (https://www.bbb.org/sdoc/business-re...ection=reviews)
#450
#452
Well the good news is, you've helped everyone in this forum so much, now we can pay it back with the knowledge in this thread.
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CSmoney28 (08-09-2021)
#453
That's almost the exact same mileage that I did mine at. Some slim profile wrenches, 20+ gauge wire, and a replacement bolt, and you'll be back on the road in 2 hours.
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CSmoney28 (08-09-2021)
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SinCity (08-11-2021)
#455
That should do it. When I did mine, I think the only option was the guy in Canada that was making these for a little over $100, so it's nice to see more options and lower prices now. Nice to see the extras as well. You can certainly re-use your own nut and clip, but they'll be good to have in case you drop yours into the abyss. I *almost* lost my clip, it would have been bad.
#456
CSmoney28
Yeah, I saw on other threads people paying $150 plus shipping just for the one piece kind of supply and demand capitalism I guess as it was a custom milled piece at that time. I have an extension magnet but not sure if there is enough metal to hold it or pick it up if I drop the washer or the nut.
#457
Yeah, I saw on other threads people paying $150 plus shipping just for the one piece kind of supply and demand capitalism I guess as it was a custom milled piece at that time. I have an extension magnet but not sure if there is enough metal to hold it or pick it up if I drop the washer or the nut.
#459
Should be no harm in driving it. Eventually you may trigger the code (if you haven't already), but the only actual symptom is going to be a lack of low-end power. You may not even notice it now since it happens so gradually as the bolt wears, but once the new bolt is on you should see the car able to generate a little more boost pressure in the lower rpm range.
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SinCity (08-16-2021)
#464
Good angle on your current bolt - you can clearly see the wear on it. I actually slipped wire through that gap to stop the bolt from falling once I unscrewed it. But on the the replacement I wrapped it around the base of the bolt instead. The clip will probably be the hardest part to remove/replace. Some needle-nose pliers may come in useful.
#465
CSmoney28
Thanks I got these just for this job, hopefully they help. Thanks, took me a few to get that shot. I need to got to Home Depot to find some metal wire like you did on your job. Thanks a ton for the input!
#468
It was still on there and my guess the clip fell off too but I read someone else didn't have a clip? bought mines without a clip for $16 thinking I'd use the old clip but nope. hopefully it will stay on (held by the actuator) , lol
for me my first time it couldn't go in, even its right parallel to the eye...some wd40 spray on both part helped. piece being tied to a fishing line and tied to the frame on top (has a hole). after that, right arm if you're right handled to find the really tight spot which is the front of the bumper sliding to the rear. once its there,I press it in with my left fingers.
the screwing on was easy. I use a pliers to push up the arm and it looked straight. counterclockwise it and it was in. now I have no idea how lose it suppose to be. should it be tight or some wiggle room?
for me my first time it couldn't go in, even its right parallel to the eye...some wd40 spray on both part helped. piece being tied to a fishing line and tied to the frame on top (has a hole). after that, right arm if you're right handled to find the really tight spot which is the front of the bumper sliding to the rear. once its there,I press it in with my left fingers.
the screwing on was easy. I use a pliers to push up the arm and it looked straight. counterclockwise it and it was in. now I have no idea how lose it suppose to be. should it be tight or some wiggle room?
#470
160k bought it like that. Been sitting since 2019 with 2 check engine lights. the other were the pressure switch witch I just finish replacing. time for some oil changes. got it real cheap, couldn't pass up.
#473
#474
On one of the hottest days of summer 2020, my wife came home and told me that our 2012 RDX have a error message on the display. I noticed that there was now a metallic clanging sound coming from the engine area. Checked with the code reader, and was getting the P2263 error.
Did what everyone in the forum posts recommended. Tried adjusting the actuator rod length, bought a replacement eye bolt even though mine looked perfectly round with no stretching (could not get new part to fit), bought a complete Mitsubishi actuator assembly and had it installed by Acura dealer,
replaced all 3 of the solenoid assemblies that control the pressure to the actuators.
Nothing worked. Would get P2263 within a day or two. The weird thing is once winter set it, did not get any errors until things started warming up in spring 2021. Soon as it hit about 10 deg Celsius, P2263 started again. Back to getting error message as before.
Love my RDX, but did not want to spend over $7,000 CDN on a new dealer installed turbo.
This forum provided me with info that led me to think that the wastegate valve was partially jammed from lack of use (we don't drive our RDX very hard). Decided to dive in a try to locate the tubing that controls the actuator. Once I was sure I had the correct tubing, started applying air pressure to look for movement of the pushrod.
Since I had no idea how much pressure is used I started low, I used my old actuator and determined that 30psi worked well,and did not damaged it.
I applied the 30psi to the wastegate actuator and nothing happened. After a few attempts, I noticed the pushrod move ever so slightly. I kept at it, and the pushrod moved more and more. Eventually things freed up to where the pushrod would now travel about an inch with ease, and I could hear when the wastegate closed.
Exercised the valve until I was confident that it was as free as it was going to get. Reassembled everything, and began driving the car.
First thing I noticed was how smooth the engine now ran, and how much more pep it had. Drove thru the hottest days of summer from mid July onward without any P2263 errors. It's now October 9, and have driven the RDX a total of 1,600KM without any problems. Runs smooth as silk without issues, and no clanging sound. I consider the problem resolved!
I wanted to share my experience because without this forum, I never would have been able to figure it out, and probably would have traded the car in by now.
Did what everyone in the forum posts recommended. Tried adjusting the actuator rod length, bought a replacement eye bolt even though mine looked perfectly round with no stretching (could not get new part to fit), bought a complete Mitsubishi actuator assembly and had it installed by Acura dealer,
replaced all 3 of the solenoid assemblies that control the pressure to the actuators.
Nothing worked. Would get P2263 within a day or two. The weird thing is once winter set it, did not get any errors until things started warming up in spring 2021. Soon as it hit about 10 deg Celsius, P2263 started again. Back to getting error message as before.
Love my RDX, but did not want to spend over $7,000 CDN on a new dealer installed turbo.
This forum provided me with info that led me to think that the wastegate valve was partially jammed from lack of use (we don't drive our RDX very hard). Decided to dive in a try to locate the tubing that controls the actuator. Once I was sure I had the correct tubing, started applying air pressure to look for movement of the pushrod.
Since I had no idea how much pressure is used I started low, I used my old actuator and determined that 30psi worked well,and did not damaged it.
I applied the 30psi to the wastegate actuator and nothing happened. After a few attempts, I noticed the pushrod move ever so slightly. I kept at it, and the pushrod moved more and more. Eventually things freed up to where the pushrod would now travel about an inch with ease, and I could hear when the wastegate closed.
Exercised the valve until I was confident that it was as free as it was going to get. Reassembled everything, and began driving the car.
First thing I noticed was how smooth the engine now ran, and how much more pep it had. Drove thru the hottest days of summer from mid July onward without any P2263 errors. It's now October 9, and have driven the RDX a total of 1,600KM without any problems. Runs smooth as silk without issues, and no clanging sound. I consider the problem resolved!
I wanted to share my experience because without this forum, I never would have been able to figure it out, and probably would have traded the car in by now.
#475
CSmoney28
Thanks for sharing your story, my P2263 Turbocharger Boost System Performance will not go away. I changed both actuators with brand new one's and literally removed the battery for hours. The code is now back...any ideas on how to get rid of it for good?
#476
Since you live in NY where they salt the roads, is it possible the waste gate valve is sticking due to rust build up? The pics you posted back in August show a good amount of build up around the area. We have a 2008 and it's just a thin layer of grime by comparison (we don't salt the roads when it snows here in TX - we just stay off 'em unit 10 am when it melts away.)
@Marcky noted he had to manually work it with compressed air until it moved freely for him.
@Marcky noted he had to manually work it with compressed air until it moved freely for him.
#478
Not the actuator - the gate (inside the throat) rotates on a shaft that has an arm attached to the actuator. Any build up around where the arm connects to the gate could be enough resistance to prevent the gate from rotating freely when pressure hits the valve.
I know how much a pain it is to remove the connector. I think that's why Marcky use compressed air on the valve instead.
I know how much a pain it is to remove the connector. I think that's why Marcky use compressed air on the valve instead.
#479
The wastegate valve is probably mechanically stuck from corrosion. The actuator (even if brand new), does not have enough force to free it. That's why I used compressed air to slowly get motion going until it freed up.
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DaIll1 (02-01-2022)
#480
P2263 Repair Video
Hi all, I thought I would post an update to my 2007 RDX. I had replaced the Actuator piece with the hardened aftermarket one (approx $50 from Ebay). After about 3 years the P2263 code came back and disabled the SH-AWD.
I happened to be in State College, near an excellent Auto Diagnostician (Pine Hollow Auto) and he diagnosed and fixed it in 2 hours. Just a simple adjustment to the slack in the rod.
He just posted a video on the repair, and it's EXCELLENT!
His repair is still holding after about 1000 miles.
I happened to be in State College, near an excellent Auto Diagnostician (Pine Hollow Auto) and he diagnosed and fixed it in 2 hours. Just a simple adjustment to the slack in the rod.
He just posted a video on the repair, and it's EXCELLENT!
His repair is still holding after about 1000 miles.