Hello - I have a 2007 RDX with about 150K on it. I have never had turbo problems until now, I have read most of the "P2263 Turbo Problems" thread and I am certain that with this many miles, that small actuator is out of round causing that problem causing the P2263 as many have noted in that thread.. I think my P0238 (turbo boost problem) is possible due to me breaking two of the wires in the connector attached to the intercooler (I repaired it, but...). My plan is to straight solder 3 short wires on to the sensor and then put connectors on the ends of those wires so I can still remove the intercooler when needed. Unless I can find that connector on a junker.
My symptoms are that turbo is barely working - even in low gears around town. There is a tremendously loud noise wind rushing/clattering noise that lasts several seconds when it tries to shift gears. It is coming from the engine bay and stops when once it finally shifts (shifting is not normal either). If I rev the engine in neutral, I can get the same sound but only for a quick second. The turbo gauge on the dash doesn't really move very much - it does function, just not at all like it used to and only goes to about 25%.

I have some questions that would help me a lot if anyone knows the answers.

1. Where is MAP Sensor located?
2. There is clearly a sensor on the front right of the Intercooler - is that the Turbo Boost sensor?
-Autozone sells a part called "Turbo Boost Sensor" but in the description it calls it a MAP sensor. It looks like the sensor on the intercooler to me, but I assume there is a map sensor somewhere ( https://www.autozone.com/engine-mana...oost/acura/rdx)
3. Is there finally a place to get that actuator?
4. Anyone know what the noise is?

Thanks!

 

Well, I see I overwhelmed everyone with my experience. :-)I wanted to report back what I’ve done. I went to a junkyard and got a replacement harness for the turbo boost sensor. I noticed that this same connector is used at least 2 other places in the engine bay. So if this ever happens to you, you can likely find a replacement harness at a junkyard even if someone beat you to the turbo boost harness. I also had the code P1009 which has to do with variable valve timing. Then when the turbo started having issues I also got P0008 which has to do with engine position which so took to mean Cam shaft position sensor. I did find the camshaft position sensor, if you’re facing the car it’s on the right side underneath the intercooler. Mine had a blue wiring harness and it’s a PITA to get off. Don’t bother removing the coolant connector you see - it just leaks antifreeze and doesn’t help you
You definitely need an offset 10 mm wrench to get in there and you can get them at Harbor freight. There are two different tests that I used for determining if my sensor was bad, and mine failed both. The first, is to remove the sensor, and plug two wires into the back side of the harness. This will be a little tricky, because you have to get a wire down inside the back of the harness, because the front of the harness is plugged into the sensor. I used thin, copper single strand wire. Put One on each end of the harness and nothing in the middle. Hook those two leads up to a voltmeter and you should read around 6.8 V. Be sure and set the voltmeter for 20 V DC. Move some large metallic object like a socket wrench up to the sensor. Once the wrench touches the magnet in the sensor, the voltage should increase. Mine went up to about 11.5 I believe. But on the failed part, the voltage didn’t change at all. The second test was to see if the sensor would actually stick to metal using the magnet. It was very obvious that the broken center was not nearly as strong magnetically as the failed one. I just tried sticking it to the side of the car.

One thing that I kept reading over and over again about some of the turbo problems with p2263 was that people would experience this after doing a valve cover gasket replacement. But no one ever seem to address this or have an answer for it. I also had just done a valve cover gasket replacement when I got these codes. Here’s what I think happens: removing the intercooler and then removing the valve cover, requires a lot of work. You can’t get the valve cover off without disconnecting six connectors on the left side of the engine that are part of the coil pack wiring harness - at least I couldn’t do it without doing that and it was a lot easier that way. And there is also so much linkage that have to be loosened to get the intercooler off and much of it leads to the blow by valve. So, it’s my belief now that if any of these linkages is overlooked and not tight, you’ll get the code, just like I did. I also think that it’s easier than people realize to break the wiring harness that connects to the turbo boost sensor on the side of the intercooler. I think the codes could be related to that as well, so check them. I went down the path of the actuator like so many others, but when I got in and looked at mine, it was fine. There was no Slop at all.

so, in the end, I replaced the camshaft position sensor for Bank 1, which is the one closest to the front of the engine. I replaced the broken harness for the turbo boost sensor. And I cleared the codes. The light did not come back on like it had before I did these repairs.

The car is still not shifting correctly, but this also is not a car that I drive very often so it might have always been like this.

 

I should have mentioned that the key needs to be in the ON position (engine not running) when you test the camshaft position sensor.

Oh, one more thing - while the MAP sensor and the turbo boos sensor are physically two different parts doing different things, they are the same part and are interchangeable. So don't overpay for one vs the other.

 

Hi Jeff - you obviously have way more knowledge & experience than me when it comes to the inner workings of this vehicle…. But. I had turbo problems at around 110k miles. P226 I believe was my code.

I also had another code for under boost and my dashboard would sometimes light up like an Xmas tree when shifting from 4th to 5th at highway speeds, there would also be a huge drop in RPMs in between gears (scary).

I suspect it was all related.

It was my turbo waste gate actuator causing the problem. Lost its airtight seal and wasn’t actuating at all.

The waste gate was stuck closed. The little piece that has gone out of round for some people was absolutely fine on mine. Maybe the factory figured out they were using too soft steel 😂. Doubt it though.

Replaced the waste gate actuator and have had no problems since. Now at 137k miles.

sounds like your problem is not the same as mine but sharing my experience in hopes it helps at all.

 

This is great info and timely! My check emissions light came back on today and I haven’t had time to pull the codes but it’s holding the gears too long and I have to let off to shift. Do you know where you got the actuator? My turbo really doesn’t seem to work well.