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1) check the 2 relays in the engine compartment(there are 2 with the snow flake icon)
2) check the field coil on the compressor.
The symptoms sounds like the field coil from what I have read. The AC works fine but when outside temps gets hot like above 90 degrees, AC stops working. Once it cools off outside, AC works again.
If it turns out to be the field coil, I believe Acura extended the warranty on the field coil to 100K miles so it might be covered under warranty.
thank you, my 07 RDX has the same symtoms, I will try this out.
Here's an update to my prior posts. Eight days after my dealer submitted the request, Acura agreed to pay 80% of the cost for a new A/C compressor and related parts. I'm glad I did not get it fixed at an independent garage. I got the car back yesterday. The A/C blows much colder than it ever did, so I suspect there was a problem with the A/C all along and not just a sudden failure two weeks ago.
Here is how to run the Climate Control System self-diagnostic function:
A) Turn the ignition switch ON (pos II, do not start the engine).
B) Press and hold the Climate Control OFF button. (To right of AUTO, beneath DUAL).
C) While holding the OFF button, press the rear window/mirror defogger (left of MODE, above A/C) 5 times within 10 seconds.
D) Release the buttons. Self diagnostic will begin within 20 seconds.
If a fault is detected the driver temp indicator and AUTO indicator (on display beneath windshield) will flash a code. The temp indicator will flash one or more segments of it's 14 display segments that form 88, and the AUTO indicator may or may not come on with it. The temp indicator will alternate every second between the segment code and 88. For instance you may see -/88/-/88/-, and the AUTO indicator may be on or stay dark. Note exactly which segment or segments flash, and if the AUTO is on.
Look at this diagram:
Post the result and I'll look it up for you. (If no fault is detected the displays will remain dark.)
To exit self-diagnostic turn the ignition switch OFF.
Bottom left horizontal bar is on and auto light off???
Here is how to run the Climate Control System self-diagnostic function:
A) Turn the ignition switch ON (pos II, do not start the engine).
B) Press and hold the Climate Control OFF button. (To right of AUTO, beneath DUAL).
C) While holding the OFF button, press the rear window/mirror defogger (left of MODE, above A/C) 5 times within 10 seconds.
D) Release the buttons. Self diagnostic will begin within 20 seconds.
If a fault is detected the driver temp indicator and AUTO indicator (on display beneath windshield) will flash a code. The temp indicator will flash one or more segments of it's 14 display segments that form 88, and the AUTO indicator may or may not come on with it. The temp indicator will alternate every second between the segment code and 88. For instance you may see -/88/-/88/-, and the AUTO indicator may be on or stay dark. Note exactly which segment or segments flash, and if the AUTO is on.
Look at this diagram:
Post the result and I'll look it up for you. (If no fault is detected the displays will remain dark.)
To exit self-diagnostic turn the ignition switch OFF.
737 Jock, thank you for this information. I have a 2007 TL 3.2L. as of the last few weeks my A/C blows 100° air. I can only get about 3 miles of cold air and that's only after my car has been sitting for a while. I do not have the money to take to a dealer, so trying to fix it on my own. Thank you.
Here is how to run the Climate Control System self-diagnostic function:
A) Turn the ignition switch ON (pos II, do not start the engine).
B) Press and hold the Climate Control OFF button. (To right of AUTO, beneath DUAL).
C) While holding the OFF button, press the rear window/mirror defogger (left of MODE, above A/C) 5 times within 10 seconds.
D) Release the buttons. Self diagnostic will begin within 20 seconds.
If a fault is detected the driver temp indicator and AUTO indicator (on display beneath windshield) will flash a code. The temp indicator will flash one or more segments of it's 14 display segments that form 88, and the AUTO indicator may or may not come on with it. The temp indicator will alternate every second between the segment code and 88. For instance you may see -/88/-/88/-, and the AUTO indicator may be on or stay dark. Note exactly which segment or segments flash, and if the AUTO is on.
Look at this diagram:
Post the result and I'll look it up for you. (If no fault is detected the displays will remain dark.)
To exit self-diagnostic turn the ignition switch OFF.
h
I ran the diagnostic test and the result was AUTO ON and the bottom center of the left digit (like an underscore).
I searched the web for diagnostic code table and found an excerpt PDF that I attached here, but it is for the 2008 MDX. Does anyone know if the code values are the same?
My heat and a/c are both not working. The car blows air that is just ambient temperature. They stopped working this past winter, I suspect at the same time (ac was fine a few months prior). I suspect it could be a separate problem going on with the driver side vent motor. It moves, it looks and sounds like it might be a bit labored. and previously the driver side was never as cold as the passenger side given the same ac settings. however, that can’t be the source of the AC and heat both failing to work.
As part of diagnosing this, I see that the RDX and MDX have a “sensor input display mode” that allows you to see hvac sensor values. I was able to start my 07 RDX in sensor mode per the MDX directions (hold auto and recirc control buttons while starting the car), but can I use the MDX table as an accurate guide?
The MDX manual says that sensor 1 is the in-car temperature. My RDX sensor 1 reads 02 deg Celsius, which is nowhere near correct because it’s the middle of the summer. I would greatly appreciate any help.
I ran the diagnostic test and the result was AUTO ON and the bottom center of the left digit (like an underscore).
I searched the web for diagnostic code table and found an excerpt PDF that I attached here, but it is for the 2008 MDX. Does anyone know if the code values are the same?
My heat and a/c are both not working. The car blows air that is just ambient temperature. They stopped working this past winter, I suspect at the same time (ac was fine a few months prior). I suspect it could be a separate problem going on with the driver side vent motor. It moves, it looks and sounds like it might be a bit labored. and previously the driver side was never as cold as the passenger side given the same ac settings. however, that can’t be the source of the AC and heat both failing to work.
As part of diagnosing this, I see that the RDX and MDX have a “sensor input display mode” that allows you to see hvac sensor values. I was able to start my 07 RDX in sensor mode per the MDX directions (hold auto and recirc control buttons while starting the car), but can I use the MDX table as an accurate guide?
The MDX manual says that sensor 1 is the in-car temperature. My RDX sensor 1 reads 02 deg Celsius, which is nowhere near correct because it’s the middle of the summer. I would greatly appreciate any help.
Update:
My AC compressor clutch relay was bad. Swapped it with the fog lights and the AC is back on. Yay!
After a couple hours of messing around the diagnostic tests and cycling the temps up and down, the heat came back, but thats only a temporary fix.. when I took it to my local shop the same thing happened and a week later the heat stopped working. So, I need to figure out what’s going on there maybe something to do with the air mixer?
Also, I still get the code that I mentioned above when I run the AC self diagnostics. It’s most likely the driver side vent door motor or linkage or something. It would be nice to confirm if that’s the correct code.
Update:
My AC compressor clutch relay was bad. Swapped it with the fog lights and the AC is back on. Yay!
After a couple hours of messing around the diagnostic tests and cycling the temps up and down, the heat came back, but thats only a temporary fix.. when I took it to my local shop the same thing happened and a week later the heat stopped working. So, I need to figure out what’s going on there maybe something to do with the air mixer?
Also, I still get the code that I mentioned above when I run the AC self diagnostics. It’s most likely the driver side vent door motor or linkage or something. It would be nice to confirm if that’s the correct code.
After replacing the relay and having the AC work for about a week, the AC failed again. The heat and blower work fine, but the ac air is just ambient temperature.
I have a 2007 RDX with 170K miles. The AC just stopped working yesterday. It was weak for about a year, so I topped off the refrigerant. It was a hot day 95 F/90% humid and according to the charts I should have 45-55 PSI low side, 225-250 high side.
Thats what the gages read when I stopped. The AC was working fine, blowing cold. Now it's nothing. The compressor doesn't come on. I checked the relays and the fuses, all good.
I don't see that my compressor was ever replaced under the TSC bulletin. So I'm leaning heavily that it died.
My FSM says that I have to remove the front bumper to replace it, surely that can't be correct. I haven't found a DIY post on replacing the entire compressor yet.
Any tips before I jump into it this weekend?
...so I topped off the refrigerant. It was a hot day 95 F/90% humid and according to the charts I should have 45-55 PSI low side, 225-250 high side.
Thats what the gages read when I stopped. The compressor doesn't come on. I checked the relays and the fuses, all good.
...I haven't found a DIY post on replacing the entire compressor yet.
Any tips before I jump into it this weekend?
Thanks
Welcome to the forum!
from other discussions there are some washers in the clutch for exact distance to activate, too little or too much and it won't. Look from above the empty space if the A.C. pulley screws rotate or not.
the electrical part of the clutch has been reported to fail independently of the compressor, as has the thermal control iirc, manual jumping it might prove either.
if not pictures and details will be appreciated, you could be the one with the DIY after all.
If you replace compressor, and open the system, do you plan to replace the dryer and condenser? Maybe that's why bumper has to come off. There is a related diy, use search/advanced buttons, to unbolt and slowly bring compressor to top of intake manifold, cardboard would be good to protect radiator diring such steps!
Ah.. that's probably why the manual says to pull the bumper. the drier and condenser are behind the bumper. I was only going to do the Compressor. The compressor died quickly, so hopefully there's not a lot of metal debris throughout the system. It's only $150 from Advanced Auto with a coupon.
I've got gauges and a vacuum pump so it should be a pretty quick fix. It's supposed to be over 100 here this weekend, the the shorter the repair the better.
So, I couldn’t find a write up on replacing the compressor, so I thought I would add this.
Lots of info on replacing the coil etc, but this was a super easy job with the right tools. I know I’ve seen dealer quotes as high as $1400. This was about $160 all together.
It’s not a bad job, start to finish was 3 hours, but to be fair, I didn’t replace the drier or condenser, which you should. Maybe I’ll do this again next year and do it properly. I was time and $$ limited this weekend. Rock Auto has a complete kit for about $260 with shipping.
The compressor itself isn’t expensive. $150 with a coupon from Advance Auto.
The tools you need are minimal.
Floor jack
Lights
Serpentine belt tool
10mm socket
12mm socket
10mm wrench (ratcheting)
12mm wrench (ratcheting)
3/8” Ratchet
3/8” stubby ratchet
3” extension
Pick
A/C Manifold gauges
Vacuum pump
Hook up your gauges, and empty any gas left in your system.
Close and remove them
Disconnect the battery
Remove the radiator overflow container
Remove the AC cooling fan. 10mm nuts and an electrical connector on the lower right side.
Release the tension on the serpentine belt. Using a purposeful tool makes this simple. Slide it off the alternator and AC pulleys.
Remove the alternator. It’s straightforward. 3 10mm bolts, 1 electrical connector and a 10mm nut. 3 bolts. Much more room to work
You can easily access the compressor at this point. There’s no reason to remove a tire or inner fender liner.
Remove the front (low pressure) line 10mm nut. Put this in a baggie to prevent contamination.
Don’t remove the high pressure line yet.
Remove the (4) 10mm bolts holing on the compressor. For the 2 on the bottom, you’ll need to jack up the car slightly to reach the bolts on the bottom. A ratcheting wrench really helps at this point. 2 bolts, underneath the car
Remove the compressor and turn on its side to remove the high side line at this point. 2 bolts from the top Rotate 90 to the left to remove the high pressure side
Installation is the reverse
Use the pic to replace the o-rings. My compressor came with new ones. Coat them in oil prior to installing.
The 2007 Acura 134a capacity is 15.9 oz. 2 twelve ounce cans ( $4.99 ea).
The oil capacity is PAG -46 6.5oz
My compressor came pre filled with 3.0 oz, so I didn’t add any more.
The notes from the FSM say” if you’re installing a new AC compressor you must calculate the amount of refrigerant oil to be removed from it.” This was aftermarket, so I just did the math. ( see pic)
Once everything is bolted back together, attach your AC gauges and a vacuum pump to the charge port. Open up all connections and turn on the pump.
Let the pump run at least 10-15 minutes.
After 20, I turned it off, and let the system sit for another 10 to check for leaks.
Close all your valves, disconnect the vacuum pump, and attach your first can of 134a.
Start your car, turn on the AC.
Open ONLY the low side ports.
Open the 134a and watch your gauges.
Mine filled to about 42 PSI, after a can and a half.
Close every thing up and you should be good to go.
I performed a dynamic test after that and everything was within specs.
So, I couldn’t find a write up on replacing the compressor, so I thought I would add this.
Lots of info on replacing the coil etc, but this was a super easy job with the right tools. I know I’ve seen dealer quotes as high as $1400. This was about $160 all together.
It’s not a bad job, start to finish was 3 hours, but to be fair, I didn’t replace the drier or condenser, which you should. Maybe I’ll do this again next year and do it properly. I was time and $$ limited this weekend. Rock Auto has a complete kit for about $260 with shipping.
The compressor itself isn’t expensive. $150 with a coupon from Advance Auto.
The tools you need are minimal.
Floor jack
Lights
Serpentine belt tool
10mm socket
12mm socket
10mm wrench (ratcheting)
12mm wrench (ratcheting)
3/8” Ratchet
3/8” stubby ratchet
3” extension
Pick
A/C Manifold gauges
Vacuum pump
Hook up your gauges, and empty any gas left in your system.
Close and remove them
Disconnect the battery
Remove the radiator overflow container
Remove the AC cooling fan. 10mm nuts and an electrical connector on the lower right side.
Release the tension on the serpentine belt. Using a purposeful tool makes this simple. Slide it off the alternator and AC pulleys.
Remove the alternator. It’s straightforward. 3 10mm bolts, 1 electrical connector and a 10mm nut. 3 bolts. Much more room to work
You can easily access the compressor at this point. There’s no reason to remove a tire or inner fender liner.
Remove the front (low pressure) line 10mm nut. Put this in a baggie to prevent contamination.
Don’t remove the high pressure line yet.
Remove the (4) 10mm bolts holing on the compressor. For the 2 on the bottom, you’ll need to jack up the car slightly to reach the bolts on the bottom. A ratcheting wrench really helps at this point. 2 bolts, underneath the car
Remove the compressor and turn on its side to remove the high side line at this point. 2 bolts from the top Rotate 90 to the left to remove the high pressure side
Installation is the reverse
Use the pic to replace the o-rings. My compressor came with new ones. Coat them in oil prior to installing.
The 2007 Acura 134a capacity is 15.9 oz. 2 twelve ounce cans ( $4.99 ea).
The oil capacity is PAG -46 6.5oz
My compressor came pre filled with 3.0 oz, so I didn’t add any more.
The notes from the FSM say” if you’re installing a new AC compressor you must calculate the amount of refrigerant oil to be removed from it.” This was aftermarket, so I just did the math. ( see pic)
Once everything is bolted back together, attach your AC gauges and a vacuum pump to the charge port. Open up all connections and turn on the pump.
Let the pump run at least 10-15 minutes.
After 20, I turned it off, and let the system sit for another 10 to check for leaks.
Close all your valves, disconnect the vacuum pump, and attach your first can of 134a.
Start your car, turn on the AC.
Open ONLY the low side ports.
Open the 134a and watch your gauges.
Mine filled to about 42 PSI, after a can and a half.
Close every thing up and you should be good to go.
I performed a dynamic test after that and everything was within specs.
My A/C quit working on a hot day. However, if it cools down outside (around 77 degrees), it works fine. As soon as the outside temp increases and my RDX sits in the sun for any length of time, I don't have cool air. It blows warm air. Any experience with this or advice? I've already taken it in once and they added freon and a dye to check for leaks. It went out again and took it back and it indicated no leaks.
I'm quoting her. I know she only posted once and didn't return. But I think she and I have the same symptoms.
I've had trouble off and on a few years. Had bad relays confirmed by location swapping and issues moved with the relays. I've replaced them then had no issues for a good long time. But now I have the intermittent issues again and I'm not so sure it's the relays this time. I am thinking it is really tied to the outdoor temperature and overall temperature under the hood. It stopped on me after parking and running in a store for a few minutes. Then it came back after a few miles down the road. Yesterday it stopped while sitting in a parking lot running waiting to meet someone. Got back on the road and it worked traveling the rest of the day. Today its a little warmer like 82, it stopped on the go towards the end of a round trip. Then second trip it came back when we started up but stopped just before we got to our destination, did not come back on when we restarted at the destination but did start working again on the way home.
When it first started back doing this someone suggested to me the clutch may be dirty and to tap it a little with a hammer to see if dust falls or just clean it. But where it is at you really can't get to it lol like you can on the trucks he drives. So the one time it stopped and stayed off until I got home I lifted the hood and sprayed it a little with the water hose and it did come back on. Probably just coincidence.
Do the clutches sometimes just stop engaging due to outdoor/underhood temperature when they are getting weak or the gap is getting large? It really does seem like the intermittent stuff this spring has been happening once it crests 80 degrees.
Or should I be looking at temp sensors, climate control system, AC refridgerant pressure sensors, etc?
Been considering just ordering a clutch. It's not really the money I'm thinking about, it's the hours of busting my knuckles getting things out of the way to bring the compressor up where I can get at the clutch to swap it. I'm really burned out on the sideways engine configurations. Conventional trucks and jeeps etc are a lot easier to get at things.
I'm quoting her. I know she only posted once and didn't return. But I think she and I have the same symptoms.
I've had trouble off and on a few years. Had bad relays confirmed by location swapping and issues moved with the relays. I've replaced them then had no issues for a good long time. But now I have the intermittent issues again and I'm not so sure it's the relays this time. I am thinking it is really tied to the outdoor temperature and overall temperature under the hood. It stopped on me after parking and running in a store for a few minutes. Then it came back after a few miles down the road. Yesterday it stopped while sitting in a parking lot running waiting to meet someone. Got back on the road and it worked traveling the rest of the day. Today its a little warmer like 82, it stopped on the go towards the end of a round trip. Then second trip it came back when we started up but stopped just before we got to our destination, did not come back on when we restarted at the destination but did start working again on the way home.
When it first started back doing this someone suggested to me the clutch may be dirty and to tap it a little with a hammer to see if dust falls or just clean it. But where it is at you really can't get to it lol like you can on the trucks he drives. So the one time it stopped and stayed off until I got home I lifted the hood and sprayed it a little with the water hose and it did come back on. Probably just coincidence.
Do the clutches sometimes just stop engaging due to outdoor/underhood temperature when they are getting weak or the gap is getting large? It really does seem like the intermittent stuff this spring has been happening once it crests 80 degrees.
Or should I be looking at temp sensors, climate control system, AC refridgerant pressure sensors, etc?
Been considering just ordering a clutch. It's not really the money I'm thinking about, it's the hours of busting my knuckles getting things out of the way to bring the compressor up where I can get at the clutch to swap it. I'm really burned out on the sideways engine configurations. Conventional trucks and jeeps etc are a lot easier to get at things.
My '08 had that problem, it only worked when I didn't need it, well, I sometimes could get it to work early, but if I stopped, it wouldn't come back on. The way it was explained to me is, there is a temperature sensor in the compressor and if if fails, this is what happened. Replaced the compressor 2 years ago, no problem since.
Thinking one is power out to clutch and wouldn't have power, so 2 would have power and 3rd would be ground.
So AC "on" power on 2 posts, ground on 3rd
AC "off" power on 2 posts no ground on 3rd... or ground present but no power on one of the two posts.
I don't mind to replace parts, in fact I'd rather take this apart and put it back once. But I don't want to go throwing parts at it or replacing things that don't need replacing.
I'd have no issue just replacing the whole compressor with clutch and compressor temp switch, but I have doubts anything is wrong with the compressor itself. Could be wrong about that but I just don't think it would work so well when it works if the compressor had a problem.
Thankfully I was able to get a service manual from another forum member and find all the tests. Next time it does it near home I will perform the easy jumper test described and see if the clutch clicks. If not then I will see if I can get to this connector for this test without getting burnt. Seems pretty straight forward. If there is continuity while the clutch won't engage I can rule out the thermal switch and I should be able to determine if the compressor is over 250F if there is no continuity... and if it is over 250F then I have bigger problems.
If you have a fancy scan tool to see the live data and a fancy thermometer you can troubleshoot the whole AC system pretty quickly with the service manual. So a dealer or a good shop could narrow this down in minutes while it is on the fritz. I wonder how much of the scan function is proprietary? If I can't get to it without getting burned I guess I will find out. Ugg!
I would advise you to remove the clutch part (held with 10 mm bolt), clean the surface of clutch and pulley and recheck the gap and adjust accordingly. In my RL the rubber portion of clutch was damaged so clutch spinning intermittently when a/c was on and replacing just the clutch fixed the issue. In my RDX the clutch wasn't engaging properly due to bad gap and lot of debris between a/c pulley and clutch. So i just removed the clutch and cleaned it well with sand paper and then adjusted the gap and i never had issue of intermittent a/c again. Always start with basic parts before spending too much money on unnecessary parts.
Thankfully I was able to get a service manual from another forum member and find all the tests. Next time it does it near home I will perform the easy jumper test described and see if the clutch clicks. If not then I will see if I can get to this connector for this test without getting burnt. Seems pretty straight forward. If there is continuity while the clutch won't engage I can rule out the thermal switch and I should be able to determine if the compressor is over 250F if there is no continuity... and if it is over 250F then I have bigger problems.
If you have a fancy scan tool to see the live data and a fancy thermometer you can troubleshoot the whole AC system pretty quickly with the service manual. So a dealer or a good shop could narrow this down in minutes while it is on the fritz. I wonder how much of the scan function is proprietary? If I can't get to it without getting burned I guess I will find out. Ugg!
Originally Posted by deepa1600
I would advise you to remove the clutch part (held with 10 mm bolt), clean the surface of clutch and pulley and recheck the gap and adjust accordingly. In my RL the rubber portion of clutch was damaged so clutch spinning intermittently when a/c was on and replacing just the clutch fixed the issue. In my RDX the clutch wasn't engaging properly due to bad gap and lot of debris between a/c pulley and clutch. So i just removed the clutch and cleaned it well with sand paper and then adjusted the gap and i never had issue of intermittent a/c again. Always start with basic parts before spending too much money on unnecessary parts.
next time it does that ask someone to press a/c button on/off while you look at the a/c clutch, if it doesn't engage try engaging it carefully by gently pushing it with a broom stick, if it engages then you just need to clean and readjust the gap.
Well, to my surprise it did it again today and still was off when I got home. So I did the service manual jumper test at the relay plug and the clutch did not click. So I moved forward to check the thermal protector. It's pretty hard to do in daylight with the car hot, but I tried anyway. I wish they would have also included incoming wire color to the diagram so I was sure I was trying to check the correct pair. If they are meaning that is the clip area on the connector it's oriented 3-2-1 while still on the car. I think I got it right, but there was no continuity or I never got on the pins right while it was hot.
It's confusing if I'm being honest. So fast forward >> I went back out tonight while it's easier to see with a light to see which colors go where. Out of the plug on the compressor 3-2-1 on the car it is 3-red to clutch 2-black from switch 1-black to switch (looks like). 3-2-1 Red-Black-Black. The harness incoming to the compressor is red/white-red-green. I'll attach a snip of this part of the wiring diagram which is BS, no help. Colors don't even match up. I have no understanding of how that works. But it would be helpful.
Here's a couple schools of thought.
Power comes in on red or green, goes to one of the blacks, loops the switch out on black then goes out on red or green back to the computer, then if the switch opens power doesn't go to the switching side of the ac relay? Then the clutch relay jumper test should bypass that condition.
The plug harness of the thermal protector that mounts to the compressor is somehow inter-wired, where as when the switch opens power connection is lost, or grounded and power never reaches the clutch. So the clutch relay jumper test would not bypass that condition.
Now rewind << I tried with it hot and either I never got on the pins or there was no continuity. I gave in, cleaned up, ate dinner, went back out and tried again with it cool and found continuity. Then I went back to the AC relay jumper test and the clutch clicked. Cranked up and of course the AC works.
So all this is to do over, and a waste of time except the experience. If I was certain I didn't ever get on the pins while hot I could say it's the clutch. If I was certain I did get on the pins while hot and had no continuity I would say the thermal protector is bad since I could touch the compressor bare handed without getting burns. But I still wouldn't know if that was the only problem because the wiring diagram sucks. Can't determine if the initial clutch relay jumper test would have bypassed the condition or not. I can only read very literally labeled wiring diagrams that would show for example the actual plug coming in is 3 wire with Red/White-Red-Green. Maybe someone with more diagram knowledge can make me feel stupid and teach me something.
I would advise you to remove the clutch part (held with 10 mm bolt), clean the surface of clutch and pulley and recheck the gap and adjust accordingly. In my RL the rubber portion of clutch was damaged so clutch spinning intermittently when a/c was on and replacing just the clutch fixed the issue. In my RDX the clutch wasn't engaging properly due to bad gap and lot of debris between a/c pulley and clutch. So i just removed the clutch and cleaned it well with sand paper and then adjusted the gap and i never had issue of intermittent a/c again. Always start with basic parts before spending too much money on unnecessary parts.
I think you are right.
I was able to get on the the posts for the two black wires going from the connector to the thermal switch while it was hot and it had continuity.
I'm going to wait until it is 68 degrees and measure the field coil resistance from the relay block. I checked it just now and wrote it down by checking between it's connection at the relay block and the negative battery. Looking at the service manual the reading is high. But it's 80 degrees and it's all hot too. Service manual ohm specs are @ 68F so.
I really think now it is dirty because this is the second suggestion I have had of that, and spraying it with water got it to engage and not be intermittent for a good while. So I think I am going to take things apart where I can pull the compressor up and check it out. That way I can clean it properly and hopefully adjust air gap if needed. Diagrams show 4 shims in there 0.1mm 0.2mm 0.4mm 0.5mm so I am thinking if the gap is wide I might can remove one and get it back in spec. Spec is 0.35mm-0.65mm (0.014-0.026 in so maybe removing one of the thinner ones would put it back in spec.
07-23-2014, 12:32 PM
