I'm pretty confident in the RBC. I will save the testing for the upcoming RdX candidates. It's to bad that those magazines are going out of busy. Turbo got the axe , now from what I've been hearing Import Tuner is next. I had a business account with them and they just stopped sending the mags and answering the phones, it's all answering machines now... Suck because I have ever issue..

 

^ i have stopped receiving my mags too =( i was bummed.. unfortunetly the killed magazines and newspapers for the most part..

 

They have kept the SuperStreet magazine and retired Modified, Import Tuner, Euro Tuner, Turbo Performance and some other stuff. Well, with all this social media hype not that many people buy or subscribe to them. Personally, I love getting a paper version.
I read that almost all of them will be available in the digital issue form though.

 

wow.. was i drunk when i wrote my thing haha i missed a few things

 

Not judging bluecarbonfiber, do you. Yeah, sucks for the mag world. But, like I had said before about the intake manifolds. My setup isn't for everybody. And it was a purpose build, I guess I'm just curious as to why people say (more then one) that I had issues with the intake manifold and/or throttle body. It was all on purpose with no issues. All my piping was at first prototype, then I just cleaned it up by having pipe made. But, as I mentioned before my setup is not for everybody.

Then:

Now:

 

im confused on what people are calling issues.. haha. having to make some cuts on your tmic cover and then the ducting for it could be an issue for some i suppose?? and you said you had to run a vacuum bar cause you didnt have enough lines for the manifold.. but to me all those are minor things anyone going out on a limb is gonna have a set back and you made it work so to me thats a success i dont know how else anyone could see it as an issue if it works?? maybe im wrong?? mad props for making it work.. now can you please for the love of god find a 05-09 acura RL driveline and see if it works? LMAO

 

Man, I really don't think it's worth it. When I took off my Driveshaft it was super light. No joke!

 

i would think the RL would be in around 10lbs ours is probably 30lbs i may call the local upull it place and see if i can just borrow one haha

 

I think if you're pushing around 300awhp, 20lbs wouldn't be felt.

 

you gotta think though.. its rotation mass.. not just weight loss 1lb of unsprung weight you shave is equal to about 4 times the sprung weight amount

 

What if the RL's is 25.5lbs?

 

The RL driveshaft looks wider in diameter then the RDX. The RDX is more narrow then the RL, just by eyeball'n it.

 

Oh yeah, forgot I got the is the mail at the beginning of the week.

 

doubt its 25 lbs

popcorn material to watch

 

I would go one piece if I ever thought about driveshaft.

 

this is next

and maybe headstuds ?.?

 

For sure..when you have all the bolt ons..time for a wheel upgrade!!

 

What wheel? Did you go to Blouch? And I wouldn't bother with head studs unless you need to pull the head off for other parts. A lot of K series guys are making 550+ without ever removing the stock bolts.

 

new compressor wheel and new turbine wheel. biggest stuff that will fit the TO4 housing. and its the billet compressor wheel. I think T20??? I'll post pics of everything when I get it back. and yes I went to blouch.

its like saying yeah he went to jarred... lol

 

At find out! I know of the t18 I think wheel that you can buy I don't know if its the one ken has. I really want to get a disco patatoe in there!

 

its bigger then Kens turbo. and it should have more capacity then the disco potato. also 320 (10psi?) crank is only in the 74% efficiency island once you crank up the boost some (15ish psi) you'll see 320 at the wheel.

 

You think the trans can handle 300+whp reliably? I would be nicely surprised.

 

no I don't. but I'm hoping it will live till I get a spare... and get one rebuilt with a trans brake built into it.

 

the only way to see what need addressed is to break it. its harsh and barbaric but necessary for the evolution of better parts sometimes.

 

I'd hope Honda powertrain development engineers would design around a Factor of Safety of 1.5 to 2.0 range minimum, giving the trans the ability to handle in the neighborhood of 350-400 crank hp based off the 240hp advertised rating.

 

safety margins cost money. and the HP isn't what im worried about so much. its the TQ because of how our turbine housing is designed it comes in strong and low in the rpm range. I bet this thing has 85% of peak TQ available from 2000 through 4500 easy. maybe more. and what's more is there is a better wheel available for the turbine side its titanium aluminide (sp??) and even with the big wheel in the compressor it would spool faster then stock. so the ability of our transmission to handle TQ is what worries me. could you imagine having a motor from Honda that would make 350 WTQ @ 3,500 RPM or maybe less?!?!? that's insane.

 

I highly doubt that. My brother's 2003 Accord V6 blew a transmission about every 65K miles. car was bone stock, extremely well maintained, and never raced.

I'm pretty amazed its holding at 270whp. Maybe Honda is finally putting decent transmissions in their cars now.

 

i think the first gen rdx trannys where the only tough auto's. Mine shift's crisp and hard when i hammer on it. I am going upgrade to a huge trans cooler to replace the dinky stock one.

 

Another thing to keep in mind on the transmissions - the cars are rated to tow up to 1500 lb. That kind of weight adds a lot of stress to the transmission even at stock power levels. So, even a decent increase in power should be fine, but be careful if you add towing back into the mix.

 

need to upgrade the trans cooler to a way bigger unit for towing.

 

You mean if you want to tow more than 1500 or do you believe the stock unit isn't really equipped to handle the stock tow rating? I haven't towed anything yet although I have handled some pretty heavy payloads without issue, but there were also no hills involved so not exactly the most stressful of situations.

 

stock stuff is only designed to get out of warranty. if I had deeper pockets I'd look into getting a thermostatically controlled cooler that would also have a remote bypass filter.
and I'd get 1 for the transmission, engine, and power steering as well.

 

Has anyone talked about doing a cutout reight after the turbo? a 4 inch dump right afer the turbo should yield some nice power.

 

I'm in the process of a larger cooler from Earl's will post some pics some.