justnspace

iTrader: (1)

^depends if the car has seen snow/salt.
it depends on how rusted the end links are.

if completely rusted, sometimes, you'll just need to cut the endlinks off. which means, you do need to buy new ones.

Tomtwtwtw

What he said...my car has never seen snow, and as such the links were quite easy to remove.

crxtype-r

Heeltoe.com

TheWrench116

iTrader: (1)

^?

GA ark

Hello everyone...
Not a regular poster, but I got the RSB for the RDX - but I stub my toes on the bastard every night as it's currently on the floor under my bed! I'm about to purchase the Megan Racing coilover kit for the TB1, and everything will be installed all at once (in a month or so from now). I was going to save up for BCs, but the Megan kit comes w/ the new end links. Anybody have this Megan kit? Also, KenB350Z, any progress w/ the Prothane bushings? The daily driver's got 150K on it now (hurts to say that)

KenB350z

I'm currently running the Megan suspension and last I heard, Prothane was still measuring the suspension parts, but they said it's coming along.

https://acurazine.com/forums/perform...ng-o_o-921624/

GA ark

Good deal, thanks. I may wait and see if they manufacture the kit, and get them all pressed in while I'm getting everything else installed. The longer I wait, the more $$$ I can throw around. Man, these upgrades are a slow go for me - the RDX's gonna have half a million miles on it before I finally turn it into what I want...

KenB350z

I'm about 100% sure they will manufacture the kit. I'm sure if you keep up the oil changes and take good care of the car you should be fine no matter the milage.

I currently have 120k


Some of the few items I changed out just to play it safe for my build:

1. Timing chain (RDX)
2. Timing tensioner (TSX)
3. Oil seal/ or gasket on the timing chain side (RDX)
4. Head studs (ARP)
5. Oil change every 3k (Mobil 1 synthetic)

GA ark

Yeah, the chain... I was so happy when I found that the K23A1 had the silent chain. But, changing it now might be a good idea if I'm gonna be amping up the powertrain. Everything else has been upkept, at least from the 58K that was on it when we bought it 5 yrs ago. After the suspension it's on to the Hondata FlashPro, then all of the engine mods. How far did you drop your RDX on the Megan kit, and what are your damper & spring rate settings?

KenB350z

I have it lowered about 1" and I had the suspension set on 16 (medium) from 32 (Hard). When I hit the track I set it all the way to 32 (hard).

TheWrench116

iTrader: (1)

is 16 stock ish ? in terms of feel?

GA ark

How hard is a DIY job to swap the stock components to the Megan kit? Buddy of mine seems to be balking when I tell him I'm about to order the parts...

TheWrench116

iTrader: (1)

depends on how skilled you are. having said that, its not rocket science. start soaking everything with WD40. it will make life easy.

KenB350z

16 is around stock and 0 is super soft luxury.

TheWrench116

iTrader: (1)

think 70 era Caddy or Lincoln with it set on 0

tite681

Received my Progress Sway bar and looking to install this week. I have a 07 Civic Si with a Progress Sway bar and it is recommended that it is installed with reinforcement plates where the endlinks bolt on to the control arm. It makes the mounting area significantly thicker. Some Civics with Progress sway bars were ripping endlinks off the control arm.

https://cdn3.volusion.com/yusyh.vpdw...jpg?1415443619

Do these reinforcement plates exist for the RDX? Are they even necessary? Thanks.

mrgold35

I was close to +110K on my 08 RDX when I upgraded to the Progress RSB in 2015. I switched to MOOG endlinks from carid.com because I was worried the OEMs would be a little worn with the new RSB. Wasn't a lot of choices for endlinks other than aftermarket that look like OEM. I now have a little under 170,000 miles on her and zero issues with the moog+progress combo. I still drive pretty hard in the corners and end up having to replace my tires at around 35K instead at the rated treadwear of 50K (conti DWS 06).

tite681

Thanks for the feedback @mrgold35 . 60k of hard driving and no issues is good news to me. Were the stock endlinks hard to remove? One question about the Moog endlinks; do you have to grease them?

Shopping around for endlinks, discovered that rear RDX and 2009 NIssan GT-R share the same part number.

mrgold35

I take my Acuras to a local tuner shop for my mods like brake upgrades, Hondata, suspension, and minor engine repair. Didn't ask if they had any issues installing the Progress RSB with Moog endlinks. They are pretty good at letting me know if there were any issues. I live in the southwest with less than 8 inches a rain/snow per year. Rusty parts are not an issue compared to cracked windshields and chipped up paint on the front bumpers.

x2lacrosse

Are the Moog's any thicker than OEM?

Tomtwtwtw

Yes - I just replaced my end links with Moog a couple weeks back since I was replacing shocks and struts at all 4 corners as well. Moog are definitely beefier than stock all around.

Of course, I had forgotten that I had the RSB when I ordered replacement bushings, so that was $10 down the drain. haha

Tomtwtwtw

tite681 - the Moog's come pre-greased, but they do come with fittings and I'd recommend hitting them with a bit of extra grease just to top them off before install.

x2lacrosse

Thank you very much. Would give you an official "Thank You" but can't seem to find that feature anymore.

Tomtwtwtw

I think we went mainstream and replaced it with the "Like" button.

CSmoney28

I had to use moog rear end-links when I installed my progress rear sway bar. When my local tuner shop went to remove the old ones they both snapped right off like nothing.

tite681

Thanks for all the feedback.

What can I expect if I use the more aggressive setting on the sway bar?

mrgold35

It was a very noticeable difference when I upgraded my 06 TSX from OEM to the thicker Progress RSB. I was expecting the same thing with my 08 RDX; but, it was slight difference after the upgrade with sh-awd. The sh-awd is damn good and acts like a thicker RSB when it torque vectors in a curve. The difference will be felt when you need to hit a curve off power without sh-awd engaged and it will feel about the same with sh-awd.

Adding Progress RSB and Eibach springs made my RDX feel more controlled and handled better when sh-awd wasn't engaged. My wife and kids always brace themselves when I'm about to hit a curve because they know I can't take a curve at the suggested speed limit.

CSmoney28

The two settings are one for stock suspension and the more aggressive for aftermarket suspension.

I have BC coil overs so the more aggressive setting works for me.

If you have stock suspension the less aggressive setting might work better for you.

tite681

Thanks guys for the feedback. The less aggressive setting it is.

Since you guy are lowered, you're likely to know. Is there a sure way to adjust the rear alignment to stock after installing Eibach springs?

x2lacrosse

I had Eibachs installed couple years back on stock dampers. Unless you get a camber kit, won't be within stock specs in rear. But they're close enough so I didn't worry about it then. But, I've now had 2 different sets of aftermarket wheels/tires on the car:

235/55-18 (Kumho Ecsta 4XII) on ET40 wheels

255/45-19 (Hankook S1 Noble2) on ET35 wheels

This car (or maybe just mine??) does not like even the slightest out of camber as both sets developed a 'whoomp whoomp' type noise at certain speeds. I rotate my tires every 5K miles, get alignments twice a year and I had each of them balanced at (2) different places. Before I was lowered, my stock wheels/tires never developed that type of noise. Maybe I'm unique, but hope it goes better for you if you get lower offset wheels.

Anyone know proper torque specs when installing Moog end links?

mrgold35

I was out of rear camber with eibach springs. Might just be an Acura thing because I had to add a camber kit to my TSX and my MDX is always out of rear camber. I had lifetime rotation (discount tires) and lifetime alignment (firestone). I did rotations/X-rotations every oil change and alignments several times a year (usually 15,000-20,000 per year at that time). Always in the yellow or red before alignment and only the rear camber out of specs after alignment. Never heard or felt wheel issues with conti dws or conti dws 06 tires other than faster wear at 35k instead of +50k with my TSX and MDX.

CSmoney28

I have the stock wheels and tires with the progress rear sway bar in the most aggressive setting, along with the bc coil overs adjusted to where I like them.

I set them low enough to get rid of all of the unsightly wheel gap but not low enough to bottom out them out.

My wheels do look a little off camber but I have them aligned and road force balanced once them get into the red zone as well at my local Acura dealership.

tite681

Thanks for all the input. This really helps with suspension planning. For now, just waiting for new end links to arrive. I'm hopeful removing the old end links will be easy. According to CarFax, my car has always been registered in Northern California.

Tomtwtwtw

Good luck. My car is like me - born and raised in the Phoenix area, so my end links came off with zero fuss.

CSmoney28

New York all its life all it knows is potholes, snow, salt, & sand.

tite681

Installed this today with Beck Arnley End Links. I went with the Beck Arnley because they're greaseless. Not sure if that's a good thing. But thought I'd try something different and review it. I was considering getting some really expensive End Links made for a Nissan GT-R but wasn't really convinced that $60 more for End Links can make much difference.

The install was very straight forward. Follow the supplied directions and you're good to go. Also, no struggles with bolts. It's a Northern California car it's whole life and probably hasn't been exposed to snow.

First impression, my driving confidence increased. Feels more planted, less sway, and when it does sway, it doesn't feel as abrupt. I'm not going to push the car too hard though. I still have trust issues with the brand new tires that came with the car. Stock size 235/55/18 Decenti D8000. I can't seem to find reviews on this specific model so not too confident.

CSmoney28

Glad the sway bar end-links worked out for you.

Also glad you’re fleeing the new found tightness in the rear end.

Yeah I never heard of those tires I wouldn’t trust them either.

I’m a Pirelli guy myself...

tite681

Sway bar is an effective and inexpensive mod. There's definitely more feedback but I wouldn't say uncomfortable.
These DCenti tires have a treadwear rating of 600 and I believe 40k expected miles. They're not bad for normal driving and even in the rain. They screech quite a bit on tighter turns and I don't feel like I'm going that fast. Wish I could afford the stock Michelins. But will likely settle for UHP All Season Yokohama. UHP All Season Pirellis would be nice too but more pricy.