Progress Group Rear Sway-Bar UNBOXING! LQQk!
7 Attachment(s)
Just picked up the sway bar from UPS. Now I know what the sway bar looks like and what comes with it. I will have to wait to put the sway bar on, as most you know why. It looks good, nicely put together. I can't wait to put it on. For those of you that have it, let me know how it does!!
Attachment 72833http://i1371.photobucket.com/albums/...psfw95xhcl.jpgAttachment 72834Attachment 72835Attachment 72836Attachment 72837Attachment 72838Attachment 72839 |
it's great!!
it tightens up the rear end! I'm able to swing my back end out in a turn! |
Originally Posted by justnspace
(Post 15325480)
it's great!!
it tightens up the rear end! I'm able to swing my back end out in a turn! |
Waiting for my RSB to come in also. I'm assuming the inter hole is for a stiffer RSB? I was also thinking about putting on new endlinks front/back, upgrade the front sway bar bushings, and replace the OEM shock/struts to KYB (already have Eibach springs). My RDX is starting to feel a little rough around the edges on less than perfect roads with almost 120,000 miles on her.
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Originally Posted by mrgold35
(Post 15325495)
Waiting for my RSB to come in also. I'm assuming the inter hole is for a stiffer RSB? I was also thinking about putting on new endlinks front/back, upgrade the front sway bar bushings, and replace the OEM shock/struts to KYB (already have Eibach springs). My RDX is starting to feel a little rough around the edges on less than perfect roads with almost 120,000 miles on her.
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Originally Posted by KenB350z
(Post 15325486)
No Pics, or review?
certainly, your pictures covered what it looks like, as it's just a bar. :shrug: as for a review; it made daily driving a little better by tightening up the rear. in my FWD TL, switching lanes didnt feel as floaty any more. furthermore; i can swing the back end out with some lift off oversteer action. |
Originally Posted by justnspace
(Post 15325527)
it's a torsion bar that SITS UNDERNEATH everything.
certainly, your pictures covered what it looks like, as it's just a bar. :shrug: as for a review; it made daily driving a little better by tightening up the rear. in my FWD TL, switching lanes didnt feel as floaty any more. furthermore; i can swing the back end out with some lift off oversteer action. |
Originally Posted by justnspace
(Post 15325480)
it's great!!
it tightens up the rear end! I'm able to swing my back end out in a turn! ^ not our platform but as a general rule yeah that's what they do... I think we RDXers were looking more for specifics as to how the SHawd acts with it. |
great avatar though!
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Originally Posted by KenB350z
(Post 15325571)
Oh ok... Now how does that help the RDX community to know how something works on a TL?
and I'm positive it will tighten up the rear of your SHAWD's. as that's what RSB's are designed to do. remember, its a torsion bar. |
Originally Posted by justnspace
(Post 15325660)
LOL you asked, fool.
and I'm positive it will tighten up the rear of your SHAWD's. as that's what RSB's are designed to do. remember, its a torsion bar. |
Originally Posted by justnspace
(Post 15325660)
LOL you asked, fool.
and I'm positive it will tighten up the rear of your SHAWD's. as that's what RSB's are designed to do. remember, its a torsion bar. |
Where are all the moderators, get this troll out of here.
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A torsion bar is a type of suspension system that is typically used in wheeled vehicles such as cars, vans and trucks. A suspension system is an important and critical element of a vehicle’s design. Regardless of the design, all suspension systems perform the same important functions. They keep the tires in contact with the surface of the road, support the weight of a vehicle and absorb the forces generated by the movement and motion of the vehicle.
Torsion bars are essentially metal bars that function as a spring. At one end, the bar is fixed firmly in place to the chassis or frame of a vehicle. The other end of the bar may be attached to the axle, suspension arm, or a spindle, depending on the specifics of a vehicle’s design. As a vehicle moves along the road, the forces generated by the motion of the vehicle create torque on the bar, which twists it along its axis. Counteracting the torque is the fact that the torsion bar naturally wants to resist the twisting effect and return to its normal state. In doing so, the suspension provides a level of resistance to the forces generated by the movement of the vehicle. This resistance is the key principle behind a torsion bar suspension system. |
im really glad that this finally happened.. it took a bit but its finally here =) i dont know how many phone calls i made and then finally talking to marcus at heeltoe in person to say what would it take for all of us to get this.. I feel like i was the dad he is the mother hahaha progress was the dr and boom the baby is born haha im a happy dad
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@ justinspace
your like a cricket talk shit all day if someone walks up on you you'll shut the FU#K up. |
I'm saying.
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Originally Posted by bluecarbonfiber
(Post 15325724)
im really glad that this finally happened.. it took a bit but its finally here =) i dont know how many phone calls i made and then finally talking to marcus at heeltoe in person to say what would it take for all of us to get this.. I feel like i was the dad he is the mother hahaha progress was the dr and boom the baby is born haha im a happy dad
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is the RSB not connected to the chassis?
is the RSB NOT connected to the control arms? to answer both of those questions, YES. the RSB connects to the chassis and also connects to both control arms, LIMITING movement or torque between the two wheels. I'm not trolling. a RSB does the same, NO MATTER what vehicle you are putting it on to. How thick is the Progress bar? how thick is the stock bar? now, why would you upgrade to a thicker bar, if you werent trying to control movement? |
this quote
Counteracting the torque is the fact that the torsion bar naturally wants to resist the twisting effect and return to its normal state. In doing so, the suspension provides a level of resistance to the forces generated by the movement of the vehicle. This resistance is the key principle behind a torsion bar suspension system. since its stiff with lots of tension, it'll be tough to fish it out same thing when installing the new bar. it will be TOUGH to position since it always wants to return to its normal state. |
I will have to do an update when I get my suspension back from Prothane, because this bar in combination with the bushing should be killer!
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Originally Posted by KenB350z
(Post 15325776)
Thanks for getting the ball rolling on it! If you ever get any free time, try and swing by VitViper, Hondata, ETS. I think Vit and ETS are the closest to you.
vit is about an hour hondata about 14 hours not sure what ets would want to do i contacted them about doing a FMIC they pretty much said they dont have the time to do it.. but had the feeling of you got a tmic dont ever bug us again vit i would deff like to see but not sure he can do much since we are all waiting on hondata to fix any other bugs with the flashpro which leads me to hondata i would gladly go visit them except my time is crunch so im not sure how long they would need the vehicle and it seems like lately they dont really want to take the time to look at it |
Also, if you guise dont go over bumps evenly, you can potentially break the chassis weld with the P RSB, as it's limiting movement and the welds are the weak spots.
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Originally Posted by justnspace
(Post 15325480)
it's great!!
it tightens up the rear end! I'm able to swing my back end out in a turn! Ooooo, drifto magnifico!! |
Originally Posted by justnspace
(Post 15325480)
it's great!!
it tightens up the rear end! I'm able to swing my back end out in a turn!
Originally Posted by TheWrench116
(Post 15325736)
@ justinspace
your like a cricket talk shit all day if someone walks up on you you'll shut the FU#K up. A RSB WILL do the same on an RDX as a TL, no two ways about it. also, are you internet thugging Crabz? Daaaamn boy, you'd better look out! :rofl: grow up |
111 east line street bring it dip stick
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and no I don't think he has any input on a chassis he doesn't own go the hell back to your own section of the forum if you don't own an RDX GITFO
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Originally Posted by TheWrench116
(Post 15325950)
and no I don't think he has any input on a chassis he doesn't own go the hell back to your own section of the forum if you don't own an RDX GITFO
just because you didnt like my answers; you resorted to name calling. last time i checked this is a free forum; regardless if I own an RDX or not. if a moderator does decide to come in here; they'll see both of you name calling me. :toocool: I did not throw the first punch here. now can we discuss RSB's like gentlemen? |
:popcorn:
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Originally Posted by bluecarbonfiber
(Post 15325931)
ets is 30 minutes from me
vit is about an hour hondata about 14 hours not sure what ets would want to do i contacted them about doing a FMIC they pretty much said they dont have the time to do it.. but had the feeling of you got a tmic dont ever bug us again vit i would deff like to see but not sure he can do much since we are all waiting on hondata to fix any other bugs with the flashpro which leads me to hondata i would gladly go visit them except my time is crunch so im not sure how long they would need the vehicle and it seems like lately they dont really want to take the time to look at it ETS could make a turbo kit for us if the buyer is serious. That is what I've been through for all the current R&D I have going. Hopefully I can get some time this summer and drive my car there and flight back, and let them have it for the time needed for R&D for a turbo kit. |
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Originally Posted by justnspace
(Post 15325983)
I was never hostile to you or KenB. :shrug:
just because you didnt like my answers; you resorted to name calling. last time i checked this is a free forum; regardless if I own an RDX or not. if a moderator does decide to come in here; they'll see both of you name calling me. :toocool: I did not throw the first punch here. now can we discuss RSB's like gentlemen? Oh this one? Attachment 72828 I have no interest in discussing about this sway bar. |
Originally Posted by TacoBello
(Post 15325940)
you must be a giant dumbass if you think Justn is full of it.
A RSB WILL do the same on an RDX as a TL, no two ways about it. also, are you internet thugging Crabz? Daaaamn boy, you'd better look out! :rofl: grow up Good thing you don't live in Oklahoma... |
Originally Posted by TacoBello
(Post 15325940)
you must be a giant dumbass if you think Justn is full of it.
A RSB WILL do the same on an RDX as a TL, no two ways about it. also, are you internet thugging Crabz? Daaaamn boy, you'd better look out! :rofl: grow up |
Originally Posted by KenB350z
(Post 15326097)
ETS could make a turbo kit for us if the buyer is serious. That is what I've been through for all the current R&D I have going. Hopefully I can get some time this summer and drive my car there and flight back, and let them have it for the time needed for R&D for a turbo kit.
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Originally Posted by bluecarbonfiber
(Post 15326247)
if you come out this way we will have to plan a meet a greet :thumbsup:
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Originally Posted by mrgold35
(Post 15325495)
Waiting for my RSB to come in also. I'm assuming the inter hole is for a stiffer RSB? I was also thinking about putting on new endlinks front/back, upgrade the front sway bar bushings, and replace the OEM shock/struts to KYB (already have Eibach springs). My RDX is starting to feel a little rough around the edges on less than perfect roads with almost 120,000 miles on her.
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3 Attachment(s)
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Wow this thread was hopping on Friday. Anyway, I posted this in the thread in the main RDX forum, but re-posting here since a lot of people seem to be watching.
So I threw mine on over the weekend. Took about 90 minutes and was very easy. Instructions that came with the bar were very easy to follow (hence no pics - instructions have you covered). All you need are some metric sockets (don't recall the sizes but nothing a basic set won't have), a 14mm wrench, and a the instructions say a 6mm allen but I think it might have been a 4. Either that or the labels on my set are wonky. 3 and 12 inch extensions make life easier, but not required. An impact might also be handy if you play in the snow often, but I had no trouble with any of the bolts with just the socket wrench. I also suggest you lift the ass end nice and high as you'll need to support the rear subframe with a jack while you do this, as it's much easier for maneuvering if you can slip the jack in from between your jack stand and rear tire rather than from the rear of the car where you'll be working. As it is, the replacement bar is a good deal thicker than stock, and comes with some hardy-looking bushings. Lining up the bushing brackets was a bit of a hassle (seems like the welds on the bar could have been 1/8 - 1/4 inch further apart, but ultimately it all bolted in. I recommend threading upper bolt on each side first, then each lower bolt, then tighten all four. For the set-up I used the outer holes, but the difference is still noticeable over stock. Haven't tried the inner holes but adjustments should be fairly easy. Just lift up the rear to unload the suspension and relocate the endlink bolts to the inner holes. |
Originally Posted by Tomtwtwtw
(Post 15328080)
Wow this thread was hopping on Friday. Anyway, I posted this in the thread in the main RDX forum, but re-posting here since a lot of people seem to be watching.
So I threw mine on over the weekend. Took about 90 minutes and was very easy. Instructions that came with the bar were very easy to follow (hence no pics - instructions have you covered). All you need are some metric sockets (don't recall the sizes but nothing a basic set won't have), a 14mm wrench, and a the instructions say a 6mm allen but I think it might have been a 4. Either that or the labels on my set are wonky. 3 and 12 inch extensions make life easier, but not required. An impact might also be handy if you play in the snow often, but I had no trouble with any of the bolts with just the socket wrench. I also suggest you lift the ass end nice and high as you'll need to support the rear subframe with a jack while you do this, as it's much easier for maneuvering if you can slip the jack in from between your jack stand and rear tire rather than from the rear of the car where you'll be working. As it is, the replacement bar is a good deal thicker than stock, and comes with some hardy-looking bushings. Lining up the bushing brackets was a bit of a hassle (seems like the welds on the bar could have been 1/8 - 1/4 inch further apart, but ultimately it all bolted in. I recommend threading upper bolt on each side first, then each lower bolt, then tighten all four. For the set-up I used the outer holes, but the difference is still noticeable over stock. Haven't tried the inner holes but adjustments should be fairly easy. Just lift up the rear to unload the suspension and relocate the endlink bolts to the inner holes. Thank you, thank you, thank you! Finally have someone that actually has an RDX that installed this bar, that is willing to share their experience. That's good that you can even notice it on soft. Can't wait to get this thing on!! |
Great information here provided! I've looked on Progress website and cannot seem to find this product. Can someone let me know where I can buy this?
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