Good afternoon y'all. Been planning out my upgrades for my 08 RDX. So far I have only reflashed the ECU to the non-carb street tune using Flashpro. I have done a good amount of research into the available intakes for this car, and have surmised that the K&N and CP-E intakes are the only ones that definitively do not throw codes. The K&N is much more available, while the CP-E is really only available through private sale. I prefer the CP-E for several reasons. The main reason is that it is long enough and shaped in a way that may do a better job at keeping IAT's down. The manufacturer also slightly increased the MAF housing diameter, allowing the potential for more power gains than the K&N.

Fast forward to yesterday, when I was able to locate a CP-E intake for sale. The seller is including a custom extension piece that allows the cone filter to sit farther down and away from hot engine air. I pulled the trigger on the intake, it should be here next week. This leads me to my MAIN QUESTION.

The basemaps that are available through Flashpro for the 07-09 RDX all progress using the K&N intake. I am wondering how far off this map would be if I used the CP-E intake instead? I anticipate it will run slightly lean because of the MAF housing. I am relatively proficient with Flashpro, but if any of you have a basemap for only the CP-E (no other bolt-ons) that would save me a lot of time and possible damage. I would consider an e-tune. However, I'm really trying to save my money for when my warranty is up. Then it's RV6 downpipe, intercooler, injectors, dyno tune.

Thanks in advance!

 

@hondata

 

OEM, CP-E, and K&N are all 3” diameter MAF housings. That’s a good thing on these. You don’t want to change MAF housing diameter. People have experimented with 3.5” housings prior to speed density tuning being available and it was not great, especially for the trans computer.

The Fletcher extension you got should help a decent amount with IATs. This platform suffers from some pretty bad heat soak and high IATs. The CP-E and K&N are both about the same.

As for tuning, if you’re saving up to do everything at once, then why not do everything at once including the intake? All you’re going to get in the meantime is noise. If that’s something you can’t wait for, and don’t feel like having an etune done (which gives you a lot more power than the pre-supplied basemap anyways), you’ll be fine with the intake and reflash.

 

How do you find the performance with just the FlashPro™ tune?

 

I had just the Hondata reflash for 10 months. It was a noticeable upgrade. Drivability around town was nice, felt a nice bump in low end tq and midrange power, anything above 5,000 rpm it still falls flat on its face, which is why I don’t understand the 7,200 raised rev limit.

 

Hi Riley!

Welcome to the forum!

When will your warranty end? I also have an '08 and was under impression warranty was long gone. Of course it could also be due to living somewhere north of you .

Hope you enjoy the car as much as all remaining owners, whether on forum or not!

cheers

 

Altair,
I purchased a bumper to bumper warranty up to 150k miles through the used car lot I got my car at. Not sure how and if manufacturer warranties apply.

 

How do you find the performance with just the FlashPro™ tune?

 

With just the Flashpro tune, there is a noticeable difference in throttle response. There is definitely more mid/high end torque. The car also goes into more aggressive cam angles easier, however I'm told that Hondata basemaps don't alter that much anyways. With stock ecu I found that my boost and torque in the high end seemed to drop off. With the Flashpro tune it seems like the boost is more evenly distributed amongst different rpm ranges if that makes sense. Definitely would recommend a flashpro as your first mod.

It's important to remember that the maps that come with the Flashpro are basemaps and just a starting point. I'm not sure how long I'd recommend running a basemap without doing some tuning yourself. I definitely notice jagged AFM readings when I datalog, however the car accelerates smoothly and runs better for sure. The best move is to start with a basemap that matches your bolt-ons, and then either self-tune or e-tune/Dyno to get your mapping smoothed and fitted directly to your car.

 

Ok good to know ...thanks.

 

Nice to have such option!

I understand the intercooler is NLA, that was the only bolt-on upgrade I have installed so far. Check this discussion for an alternative, water based intercooler:

https://acurazine.com/forums/1g-rdx-...bb-tsx-945705/

Keep posting updates as you implement the plan!

Cheers