This thread is going to be more informative for people searching for answers than a thread about the actual build. I have owned my RDX for 5 years, never touched it, modification wise, until recently when I decided that making the RDX as fun as possible was better finically than purchasing a newer TLX. Modifying Honda's is something that I have been doing for the past 20 years, minus this current 8 years break. I have owned two Integra Type R (one stolen, one sold) and a 400whp Turbo B16 1996 Midori Green EK Hatch. Among various other Hondas.

The RDX is a great platform and I wanna keep it until the wheels fall off.

Scope of work today:
ETS Intercooler, DW800cc injectors, NGK Iridium Sparks Plugs, DW300 LHP Fuel Pump

Tools I used:
Makita Impact, 8,10,12,14mm sockets with wobbly extensions from Harbor Freight. (5/8" Craftsman Spark Plug Socket) and a #2 Philips bit, hammer, razor knife, scissors and 5/16" flat blade screw driver

Here is what the engine bay looked at 11 this morning:​​​​​​

Best tool in the world, or at least today:

 

And two hours later:

 

Intercooler install notes:

ETS top mount intercooler that I bought on eBay. I needed to scrape some grey RTV silicone from the previous owner. Instead of re using RTV for the BOV outlet, I purchase a sheet of gasket material (Rubber/Cellulose mix) from O'Reily's for $5.50 for the entire sheet. Seemed to work fine. Just use the BOV flange to cut out the holes for the bolts and the airflow passage

I replaced the inlet and outlet with new silicone hose off of eBay. The outlet/throttle body hose is a 2.75 inch 45 degree elbow that I cut down by using the existing elbow as a template. (I had to reuse the existing hose clamps until I can order 3" T-Clamps) The inlet/turbine outlet is 2 inch silicone hump hose with 2-2.5 inch T-Clamps. The seller I bought them from off of eBay sold them for $6 or 7 bucks each.

Face the nuts for the hose clamps towards the passenger side, NOT the driver's side like it comes from the factory. There is way more room to work. Also, tighten the intercooler side BEFORE you put it in the engine bay

 

(Forgot to mention that I already have a Hondata Flash Pro and CP-E Intake installed. Hondata has a base map for the 800cc injectors which actually worked great. RDX fired right up. I am using Steve at e-tunez.com for my further tuning. Really excited to work with him)

Injectors and Fuel Pump Notes:
Part number for the Deatschwerks 800cc injectors: 21U-01-0800-4
​​​​​​(THESE ARE PLUG AND PLAY, no need to get the Rywire Harness)





Part number for the Deatschwerks 300 LPH Fuel Pump: 9-309-1008
(After talking with Marcus at HeelToe Automotive, this part number supersedes the old RDX number ending in 1007)

Both parts where really easy to install. Quality and fitment is identical to OEM Honda.

On the RDX there are two identical covers underneath the rear seats, the fuel pump itself is under the seat behind the driver's side

I also used this time to replaced the spark plugs and look at the gaskets around the intake manifold and spark plug coils. Living on in the West, we really don't have the harsh environments that the East Coast/Midwest folks have, we don't even use salt on the road; so everything looked pretty damn good

NGK part number for the plug is: SILKR8A-S

Please message me or reply to this thread, really want to just help people out with their work.

 

 

Here are the links from eBay:

45 degree 2.75 inch hose

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Black-Red-Blue-Hump-Straight-Silicone-Hose-Intercooler-Coupler-Tube-Pipe/163148572459?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=462 313420986&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649]2.00 inch hump hose[/url]

Hope those work

 

Looking really great! Glad we could sort you out with those injectors/pump. HMU for any other needs!

Drop in DW 800cc Injectors for RDX, 21U-01-0800-4
Drop in DW DW65C 265 LPH Compact In-Tank Fuel Pump Kit
Drop in DW300C 340 LPH Compact In-Tank Fuel Pump Kit
Honda Genuine Spark Plug, NGK SILKR8A-S

#HTinyourcorner!

 

 

Whoops sorry bout that,

here is the direct link for that 2.75" elbow

2.75" 45 degree elbow

 

 

Nice Build! I just ordered a DW300C Fuel pump and Hondata Intake Manifold gasket from Heeltoe! I already have the ETS intercooler, ID1050X injectors, RV6 Downpipe, ATLP Exhaust. I'm wondering if the stock fuel pump flows enough for these injectors. I also am waiting for my upgraded turbo from TheWrench on this forum. It is being fitted with a billet 20T compressor wheel from Blouch. One problem I am having is, I am getting P2263 intermittently and am wondering if the fuel pump is the culprit. My theory is that the stock pump isn't flowing enough fuel to reach the target boost levels in my tune. Oh yeah my RDX was remotely tuned by D-Rob at Innovative Motorworks. Both TheWrench (Josh) and D-Rob (Derek) were very helpful in my build so far and I will be going back to Derek for a retune once the new turbo arrives.

 

 

if you want a real modded turbo I have one that I am moving on from never used either

 

Got around to installing my new down pipe. After doing some research I decided to go for the R2 Racing Downpipe. 200 hundred dollars cheaper than the RV6 and no 3-4 month wait time

Total install time: 2:15 mins
Seems the quality of the welds seem great. The ceramic coating is even and well done. Fitment was perfect. Lined right up. Literally took 20 mins to install. Most of the time was spend pulling out the stock DP.

Here are some pics of the quality of the down pipe. (First lets get to the negative, no bottom exhaust hanger mount and the shipping took 1 month from Russia)








I also got new bolts and nuts and an OEM turbine outlet gasket from Honda


Install tips-
-Get a nice set of wobbly 3/8 extensions, a universal extension, 10mm/12mm/14mm ratcheting wrenches, and an electric impact gun. (Make removal of the OEM heat shields way easier)
-Remove P/S front wheel to access down pipe through the wheel well
-Loosen power steering line from the valve cover
-Remove all the heat shields from the OEM cat. The upper DP comes out the top
-Remove all mounts from the O2 sensor wires, they get into the way when trying to get the DP out
-Get an O2 sensor socket. They are $8 off of amazon.com. You need to pull the O2 sensors off to have an easier time removing the stock DP
-I didn't have any need to loosen the motor mounts, pull axles, or other heat shields
-Since the new DP had a V-Band clamp, I installed the front O2 sensor in the top DP section, lined it up on the turbine, and dry fitted it with hand tightened bolts
-I fed the lower DP section in from from the bottom, hand tightened the DP to mid pipe bolts, and placed the V-Band clamp "bolt" on the backside of the DP, facing up. I could access it through the P/S wheel well)
-Bottom O2 sensor should be installed into the non-fouler after install, you can access both O2 plug harnesses from the top of the engine

Hope this will be helpful. Next week I am going to do a write up on a PRB intake manifold (want more low end torque and the price is a third of the RBC) J35 throttle body, and upper intercooler pipe installation

 

 

Great write up, cant wait to see your prb manifold and j35 write up. I wanted to do my manifold and throttle body next but wasn't to sure what to go with, zdx and rbc are pretty pricey. Im very interested to see how your setup will turn out!

 

Hey, thanks for the write up. Do you have a link to the r2 downpipe? I found it through the company website but would appreciate the link you used to purxhase it. Thanks!

 

My opinion I don’t think the throttle body & intake manifold are worth the money. Exhaust manifold & downpipes is where the power is on these rdx’s.