First post!

I have seen threads in this forum stating that the CP-E intake for the RDX was discontinued... which pissed me off. I just picked up an RDX a couple weeks ago and this is the intake I wanted. I went to their website to try and place an order and it was showing out of stock. I sent them an email asking them when they would be available. They responded with very soon they are getting coated. Well I checked the site and they are back in stock. I just placed an order.

Just wanted to give everyone a heads up.

 

Thanks for the heads up, give us feedback when it's on.

 

Will do. I have a Hondata ecu on the way as well and I plan to get some dyno numbers once its all in. I will post results.

 

I've had my cp-e on for about 2 months now. Great sound, no crazy performance gains, but it def. spools faster and stronger. Nice bov sound. Im also getting around 24-25 mpg now as well, was getting around 21mpg before average.

I averaged 25.1mpg on my last trip from ohio to indiana. got over 400 miles on 1 tank of fuel.

 

I am going to order it . Just wonder what filter i need? DFlow or Synoild? is pre filter necessary? my car is 2011 model

 

One is synthetic oiled the other is a dry flow. CP-E highly recommend the synthetic oiled filter.

Some people doesn't like the oiled filter.

AS for the pre-filter; it works like the AEM air bypass valve.
(someone correct me if I am wrong)

AEM’s patented Air Bypass Valve virtually eliminates the chance of hydro-lock in the event the filter of your AEM Cold Air induction system becomes submerged in water. On most systems, the valve installs along the upper portion of the inlet pipe and shuts down induction at the filter when it becomes submerged, rerouting air through its external diaphragm to keep water out and air flowing in. Check with your dealer or call AEM for more information on air bypass valve installation locations.

 

That is correct on the filter types per my research. I ordered the oiled version so I can clean and reuse.

I believe the prefilter is a "sock" that you put over the cone filter to keep larger debris from getting stuck in the filter. Mine should be in tomorrow. I will try to post up some pics.

 

Installed the intake last night but forgot to take pics. The prefilter is a mesh sock that goes over the cone filter.

 

Any negative effects from installing the CP-E intake?

 

We need pics.

 

No negative effects from installation. I have been to the local dealership a couple of times and they haven't said a thing. It definitely allows the engine to breathe better. Once the VTEC kicks in, you can literally feel the RDX lunge forward. Without the cp-e intake installed, I don't feel it as much.

I guess the only negative effect would be more noise from the engine bay -- mostly the bypass valve and the turbo spooling up. My passengers all complained about the "weird noises".

 

Negatives: Possibly sound... its alot louder than I thought it would be. This is my 3rd modded turbo vehicle. I had an 04 Audi TT Quatro and a 09 WRX with intakes on them. They were not as loud as the RDX. At WOT you can not tell its there. At partial throttle you hear plenty of hissing and whooshing. When the AC is on and the radio is at a normal level you dont hear it much.

It will depend on your personal taste. I don't mind it but I can see how it could annoy others. If you look at all the work Acura/Honda has done trying to make this thing quiet you will see they had their hands full. The piping and baffling you have to remove is impressive. There is a ton of plastic crap designed to keep it on the DL.

I purchased the vehicle about 3 weeks ago and already have a Hondata ECU and the CPE intake on it and I have not been overly impressed by the seat of the pants gains. The RDX will get up and move but expectations should be realistic... its a 4000lb SUV. After about 60mph it really slows down. I traded my 09 WRX in which put down 293hp 331tq on the dyno and I have a 2004 M3 as a weekender. Thus my personal baseline is pretty high.

I wonder how my Hondata/CPE vehicle would contend with other brand V6 small and midsize SUVs.... the ones that have some power. I am guessing based on other posts that its probably putting down around 220whp 260 wtq. It wont win many drag races but it is a fun commuter car no question.

I will try to get some pics up this weekend. It wont be anything you cant find on other posts if you do some searching.

I am planning on heading down to Cobb in Dallas in the next couple months to get some dyno time in to make sure the AF is safe and to see what the output is. I will post results when I get around to that one.

My opinion... which might draw some fire... make sure you have realistic expectations before you mod an RDX. Due to its size and weight you are not going to see serious gains. The aftermarket support for this vehicle is not the best. Now that Acura has decided to end the turbo I4 engine, the mods out there are probably all you are going to see. I love the car and dont regret anything thus far.

 

Welcom to the forums.

I edited your post and sent you a PM explaining what I did.

 

My sentiments exactly. I am also used to more moreful cars and have a couple of other turbo cars. I was expecting more too.

I got the K&N typhoon and got the same wooshing issues as well! It really is annoying. I might even take it off and go with just a drop in. I was hoping the CP-E intake would cure the noise but I guess not.

The SUV is nice enough, so she's a keeper.

I need to slow down the power steering pump though. The steering in too "soft".

 

Have this on my 2008 RDX Tech, great mode, more noise, and faster spool up, higher gear kicks in sooner and pulls hard all the way to red line.

I was expecting some better fuel mileage, but not for me, I average 17mpg in town and 18.5 on highway, and it's been 18mpg combined for last 4000 miles. Maybe because I drive it same way as my 370z :oP

Next mode is mid pipe.

 

Bump for interest.

 

Got mine yesterday minus the screws that hold the MAS in place.
:thumbsdow

 

The stock screws no worky? I had to reuse the stock ones on my 8thgen civic.

 

Got extra screws with my weapon R.
The stock ones are a little annoying if you need to clean your MAS.

You can always pickup the philips screws (Same size as the stock ones) and bolt it right up.

That is what I did - The stock screws needs a allen key.

 

So were these Stainless Steel? And how long are they?

 

Not really sure - you can go to home depot or lowes and get the packages that comes with all sort of sizes. (I think it was like $5)

That is how I got the screw to hold down the MAS and it works very well.
I can just a screwdriver and take it out very easily when I need to clean the MAS.

Actually I will be doing that later on.

 

Just tried and the stock screws are fine. I had thought (with the long plastic tube beneath them) that they were too long. Now I want to wrap the tube before I instal it to keep the underhood heat from being absorbed by the CAI.

 

Marco,
The shape of the pipe you posted looks different than the web site pics.

Is yours a new, true cai?

The web pic showed the filter near the battery, in the engine compartment.

As for insulation, I've seen thick black urethane foam sleeve, top it with foil/adhesive duct tape? Cut it to length and slide it on before you install.

 

Not a CP-e intake. That is a lace up cover from Thermo-Tech ($50). Mine is still in the plastic.



*Instead of blowing another $50 on this project, I'll be using this stuff \/ for a top cover. --> http://www.homedepot.com/buy/plumbin...pe-153843.html

Thanks to mucter for this inexpensive alternative.

I've been considering making a sheild/box for it as well, if I can dig out the galv sheet metal that fell behind my work bench (I'm too cheap to spend anymore money on this project).

 

OMG, just found the black allen head MAS screws sealed in the corner of the bag with the coupler.

Wish I had installed this over the weekend instead of putting on the snow tires.

 

Thanks Marco I see now.

So from '07 to '12, all these years and still no cai?

Could you add a silicone tube to move it to a cooler place?

 

I think adding a sheild/box is easier. Plus the CP-e intake is already in a corner.

-OR-

You could just add something like this to keep some of the hot air up top from getting sucked in the intake.



*Realize those dyno numbers from Custom Performance engineering are with the hood open and two fans blowing on the car. With the hood closed the temps in that corner of the engine bay are easliy going to double while you are driving to work in 75deg temps!

 

The more I think about it, the more convinced I am that a box is best.

 

Well if you can't move the intake to cold air
move the cold air to the intake...



At Lowes

 

Oh, they are different. Where can you get cold air?

 

Kinda hard to tell in this pic, but the removal of all the intake plumbing creates a natural hole without the need to run a hose to the front. At speed enough air will come in to feed that intake. All you need to do is block the hot air from coming in on the top.

 

Finally got around to installing this intake.

Wrapped in 1" foam tape.


Then covered with 2" alluminum tape.


And intalled.


I had a rattle which I solved by pushing the insobolt all the way to the end of the slot. A small increase in hp/tq, but I'll need a dyno run to verify this. I will make a vid and run with the alapRecorderHD performance computer as well. It would be really hard to build a box for this at the angle it sits in the engine bay. Surely it would just be a rattle box .Wish I had replaced that whimpy horn while I was down there.

 

http://youtu.be/Cph8BClZHhM?hd=1

My results are a far cry from either manufacturer's claims. I love dyno's, they are so fos. (purple is stock, green is new ETS TMIC + CP-E CAI). I need so much more boost, it's not even funny.

 

So 10 hp total. Not enough. I wanted (the RDX needed) 20hp more.

 

Agreed.

I wrote Doug last night complaining about this. He re-said the reflash for 2012's is on the todo. So I'll definitely be getting that when it's available. Yes, I know you're still resistant to that idea.... lol

 

My "butt" impression after the intake had me wanting more. It was a letdown, except for the sound. I might reconsider a reflash if an extra $300 comes my way. Next priority is finish the tint and fix the paint.

 

Yes it can be difficult to satisfy the butt dyno, especially considering my last car had 100 more ft lb of torque.

 

It's especially frustrating for me because I really never wanted the RDX in the first place. Some how my S2000 and Vortech gear driven supercharger got left out of the household budget.

 

Hehehe, yeah I miss my S2k all the time, even though it's been 6 years since I let her go.